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Im confused, i just installed my engine in my new shell and for some reason my alternator gets really hot after hooking the battery up, even if the car isnt running.. Can you guys tell me why this is happening?
thank you bump start i looked in the 2nd gen archives and found the alternator thread. So i just have to run an ignition switch wire to the top of the T plug.. But do i just leave the S wire disconnected?
1989 Turbo II - RIP
1986 GXL - RIP
1987 Turbo II - Sold!
1988 Celica All-Trac - future rally machine.
1994 4runner 5spd 4wd - to haul said rally machine
Are you sure your car isn't on fire right now?
and what is wrong with hooking it up as mazda did?
looks like black with white from here,,,,,and it seems to have worked for me for nearly 20 years
I don't quite get your drift. There's nothing wrong with wiring it like the stk car. BlackWhite on top for the regulator and white/black on the bottom from the COIL of the alternator relay in the CPU via the Meter fuse. No warning light assy involved directly on a series four. Talking series four.
The image in the post is slightly wrong in that it shows the L wire being fed by the DASH which is something that bugs me a bit 'cause its misleading. Slightly misleading on a series four car. That white/black wire is the excitation voltage for the alternator and should show appox 1-3vdc when backprobed with the key to ON, engine not turning over. It does not have a sole function of making the idiot lights come on when the alt is not spinning.
well i can tell you guys that i fixed it... what i did was run the ignition to the top or the "T" and the bottom part of the "T" is hooked to the wire that doesnt have constant power... And it seems like its working fine to me..
in my first response it is assumed he already has wired that white/black L wire up as there is no change there between s4 and s5
if you hook up the black /white to top of the tee and nothing else the alt will still turn on first time you lift revs to 1500 rpm
this is how most do it in older RX changing form external reg to internal reg 12at/s4 alt
else there is complications of adding a latching relay to get the signal polarity correct at the light
It's self exciting itself with the fifteen hundred rev. In normal stock car operation the only current to the field of the alt (initially) is thru the L wire being fed by the coil in the alt relay (inside the CPU on a series four car).
The top wire should be feeding the regulator/transistors but not outputting to the field until the alt is actually rotationg and the diode trio is now putting out. The diode trio feeds the field from then on.
The alt relay in the CPU then relaxes 'cause the voltage on each side of the alt relay coil is the same.
Three cheers for Casey Stoner the top MOTOGP rider (AUS).