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It will intermediary act like I have the clutch pedal half in engaged when I have it to the floor. Can't shift it will roll with the pedal to the floor. It started acting up today, but then fixed it self. I was on the way to the auto hobby shop to fix my water pump. It seems fine now. I had to force it into 1st gear and it almost died but didn't.
dude a tall tail sign of a bad clutch slave will have WET FLUID inside or outside where where the clutch cylinder attaches to the fire wall. From pass experiences look on the inside.
I always thought bad throw out bearings made noise.
I installed the clutch it has been sitting for about 2 yrs till about a month ago. it was a full clutch kit. all but the pilot bearing. My 7 has had this issue before. with the N/A motor and trans. I did the TII swap about 2yrs ago.
Yesterday i ran my car and when my clutch pedal is engage for like 2 or 3 second it stink to the floor and it's like it was not engage cause i can't change gears. When i change gears and i push the clutch fast it ok but I have pull the clutch pedal with my foot ! The friction point was right on the floor .
and this morning my clutch pedal is so easy and i can't change gear at all !
and why change both ? the problem could be only one ? i know the owner change one of the two cylinder 10000 km ago but i don't know which one ! I will try to change my master cylinder this week ! If it's dosen't work i have a used slave cylinder so i will try it !
If your losing clutch fluid then its most likely the clutch slave cylinder. Reach it with your fingers and pry under its rubber boot where the actuating rod is. IF you find fluid there then it's leaking and needs replacement.
If it's not leaking and there is no leakage of the lines to it from the master cylinder........replace the master cylinder.
in hydraulic systems, generally once one component goes, the others are soon to follow. Components wear together, and replacing one component puts added stress on the others in the system. Replacing both cylinders and the hose at the same time is very easy to do, and only about $100 to do.
1988 Mazda RX7 GX for when the sun shines
1996 Ford Ranger daily
and why change both ? the problem could be only one ?
Bleeding the system is the most time consuming/PITA aspect of the job.
You don't want to do it twice.
Hence, you spend the (possibly) unnecessary cash on all the components because it means you bleed once and are done.
there is a little bit of fluid loss. I had it at max and it is about halfway now. I replaced the master and the rubber line for a stainless steel braid line about 2 years ago. the slave cylinder came with the JDM tranny.
Loss of fluid means the SLAVE is the problem. IF you reach around to the rod side of the slave and lift the rubber dust cap up a bit............I'd bet fluid will come out. ANY fluid coming out means the slave is done for.
Bad masters can leak. The leak would be INSIDE the car where the rod on the clutch pedal goes into the master cylinder. If leaking the fluid will dribble down the area below where the rod goes into the master and get under the carpet.
The hose can leak and the line attached to the master and slave can leak but you would have seen those leaks by now. My bet is on the slave gone south. About 45-50 bucks for one the last time I looked.
Removing the oil filter will give you more room to access the slave. Easy obstuctional removal.
If you had not been missing any fluid in the reservoir and the pedal had been sticking to the floor I'd have said the master was bypassing internally and needed replacement. That's not the case though since you say your missing fluid.
Carry a can of break fluid around in the car til you can fix the problem.