hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Well I just got done changing all my coolant stuff out and low and behold something finally goes right, it stopped over heating!!! While I was changing everything out I changed out my turbo gaskets with oem ones instead of those crapy copper ones. Anyways I am still only getting about 4 or 5 lbs of boost and I have absolutley no emissions, no cats a tid mod and like I said new gaskets around the turbo and still only 4 or 5 lbs. Well thats my first problem my other problem is I have a pretty bad oil leak right around that banjo bolt on the drivers side of the engine that goes to the oil cooler, how would this leak? Is this a hard fix? Is this known to happen more than rarely? and where can I find this bolt? Thanks for any help!

ps oh yeah one more thing when my car warms up and I rev my car I get a loud screaching noise, could this be from the belt pullies having a worn bearing? Thanks again.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

damn no one? I think someone has to know something about my problem!

YearsOfDecay

You can get new copper banjo bolt washers from the Mazda dealer or from Mazdatrix, this may solve your leak on the banjo bolt.

As for the screach... have someone else rev your motor and poke your beak under the hood. This is the only way to be sure of where its comming from. Could be the bearings, however, more likely the belts are worn or glazed or are not tight enough.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

they are tight and brand new but my pullies are pretty bad I think i'm going to just have to get new pullies. Anyways anyone know anything about turbos thanks for your help man.

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

I dont see why you would have to replace the banjo bolt unless it is just fubar'd, I would just replace the 2 washers.

imagine32000

Many times.. the leak looks like it's coming from the banjo bolt.. but the oil pressure sending unit could be loose (leaking) which would cause it to drip onto the banjo bolt.. and then onto the ground. I would check the unit first before replacing the washers/bolt. Just my .02

- Matt

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ok I will try that first. I'm going to clean all around that area and then run my car and find out where it is dripping from. I changed oil pedestle to the one from fc3s.org and have an oil pressure gauge but now looks like maybe that may be the culpret, don't know. Anyways does anyone know what may be causing my boost problems? Would mufflers be causing this problem if they are real old and falling apart? I mean could it become clogged like a cat? Thanks!

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure that your boost guage is working properly?

HAILERS

What year car is that with the turbo only going to four or five psi???? Is it a series five??? If so ....could it have something to do with the series five regulating boost thru the ECU/solenoid. Sorry, don't have a series five here, only series four..

And didn't I read where you have a hybrid turbo on your car?????? Does it get only four or five psi when your in forth or fifth and going up a grade, wot?????? Didn't you say in a post that you have naddda shaft play in the turbo? Or was that another thread.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

oh yeah it is a hybrid turbo (enlarged turbine) and there is minimal shaft play. It is a series 4 (88 to be exact). well I'm getting 4 or 5 in 1st and 2nd almost all the way to redline. I thought it would reach full boost by then? What do you think? Thanks for the reply hailers

HAILERS

That seems a touch weak. I really don't know much about turbos, but........maybe when they upgraded they enlarged the wastegate quite a bit??? And maybe that results in the lower boost????? How about trying a uphill/upgrade in forth gear or fifth b/t 3000 and 5000 rpm and see what the boost is. Make that FROM 3 to 5 grand.

Like I said....I know not much. How about a manual boost controller???? to raise the boost up.

Do you get a lot of smoke on startup for a minute or so?

Anyone care to pipe in?

HAILERS

In the long run it should not matter, but did you keep the twin scroll. Probably not. Shouldn't matter on the top end anyway.

And from other posts I've been convinced the enlarged wastegate should not matter a whole lot once on full boost. As in five grand wideopen throttle. Got me. You have a open exaust etc and no cats. Seems it should be higher. Around eight to ten anyway on the low end. Maybe the manual boost controller is what you need?

HAILERS

I just saw your reply on another post below. It was about the secondary plates.

Try this, it takes but thirty to forty minutes and it will tell you if its the outboard set of throttle plates or not. 'Take the intercooler off. Look a the front of the throttle body,. You'll see a thin rod with a spring around it held on with two small cotter keys. Remove that rod. Now tie the linkage for the number two secondary throttle plates to the full open position. Use a piece of safety wire or a large zip tie. Put the intercooler back on and go for a ride. If there is no difference.....your wasting time on removing the secondary throttle plates. If it is the problem....you'll have noticably more boost.

What happens is the dashpot for the secondary no.2 gets worn and will not release the black plastic cam ang the plates stay closed no matter how far you press the throttle pedal. Tieing the no.2 linkage wide open .......keeps them wide open. I have one car like this because the no.2 started to stick once and a while. I'l leaving it tied open. Any gain by removing the plates themselves ain't worth it. I'd never notice it, that's for sure.

HAILERS

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=31412

HAILERS

Correction? It's one small nut and one cotter key. Another way would be to remove the black cam or remove the dashpot that the cam rides against if your against wiring things open. More time required for that.