Turbo II JDM Swap Help
#1
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Turbo II JDM Swap Help
Hello, I have been lurking these forums for a little over a year now simply garnering as much information about these cars as possible to prepare myself for a Na to Turbo II swap using a J-spec engine. I currently own a 1990 N/A Harbor Blue Coupe.
Unfortunately, I still do not have the personal experience working on these cars besides changing plugs, fuel filters, and regular maintenance. I live in a small-town in the Midwest and no one even knows what this car is, let alone what is under the hood. It's comical, really.
I do have enough mechanical inclination to perform this swap though, but I need some help on what to look for when purchasing a J-spec engine because the reviews for these types of engines are so scattered; it's either really awesome or the worst mistake one could ever make.
1: Does anyone know a reliable source that frequently supplies engines with positive feedback?
2: What should I look for as a major "DON'T BUY" seen in pictures? (such as cut harnesses, etc)
3: I intend to call and ask them for a compression test, (but I mean they could just test another good 13bt and send me the junk one, I realize). Is there any age-old question that I should ask these guys about the motor that could inadvertently indicate that it is not running well?
Thank you for your time and help. I appreciate it.
Unfortunately, I still do not have the personal experience working on these cars besides changing plugs, fuel filters, and regular maintenance. I live in a small-town in the Midwest and no one even knows what this car is, let alone what is under the hood. It's comical, really.
I do have enough mechanical inclination to perform this swap though, but I need some help on what to look for when purchasing a J-spec engine because the reviews for these types of engines are so scattered; it's either really awesome or the worst mistake one could ever make.
1: Does anyone know a reliable source that frequently supplies engines with positive feedback?
2: What should I look for as a major "DON'T BUY" seen in pictures? (such as cut harnesses, etc)
3: I intend to call and ask them for a compression test, (but I mean they could just test another good 13bt and send me the junk one, I realize). Is there any age-old question that I should ask these guys about the motor that could inadvertently indicate that it is not running well?
Thank you for your time and help. I appreciate it.
#2
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No matter where you order an engine in from, be prepaired to rebuild it. Not a single importer of rotarys will warranty their motors. Not even for a month so expect the worst. Also in the archives there is a sticky of someone's t2 swap and everything needed. Look for that. It will help you a lot. I also suggest getting all the repair manuals you can find for your car. Turbo and Na, they will help you the most
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I caught this before; I have done my fair share of reading and I have downloaded just about every manual possible for this generation. Just in case all the internet information disappears. Nonetheless, I appreciate your time and efforts to help.
I am 'somewhat' close to rotaryresurrection in the event that he does rebuilds still (I am not current on anything in the rotary world). Although if you believe someone with mechanical inclination could rebuild one of these, I would certainly give it a go.
I have mainly worked of 350s and ls motors in the past.
I am 'somewhat' close to rotaryresurrection in the event that he does rebuilds still (I am not current on anything in the rotary world). Although if you believe someone with mechanical inclination could rebuild one of these, I would certainly give it a go.
I have mainly worked of 350s and ls motors in the past.
#6
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The FSM and a good video should be all you need documentation wise. A rotary was actually the first engine I ever rebuilt and that was back before I had the internet and this site.
What have you done on those motors? I f you can rebuild a 350 or LS motor then you should be capable of rebuilding a rotary.
#7
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Search AAron Cakes rebuild video on Youtube if you need an insight on how a rotary rebuild would go.
My personal experience with a shipped JDM motor was not good. For what I paid to get the engine and what I had to pay to rebuild/port it after it spun the bearing and seized the front half of the motor in my drive-way (before ever driving it due to a bad previous rebuild), I coulda just bought a clean TII with the works.
I had a buddy of mine get a JDM s4T engine and it ran like crap when he installed it but it was due to a cracked/leaky fuel injector. So you can luck out.
If I was to ever do it again I would just buy used irons, housings, rotors ect. and do the rebuild myself or have it rebuilt. At least then you know what you're working with.
Those JDM companies will not do a warranty on the motors because rotaries are usually motors that get beat on at one point or another.
Anythings better then paying 2k and then your motor needs another chunk of money to rebuild.
Just my opinion
My personal experience with a shipped JDM motor was not good. For what I paid to get the engine and what I had to pay to rebuild/port it after it spun the bearing and seized the front half of the motor in my drive-way (before ever driving it due to a bad previous rebuild), I coulda just bought a clean TII with the works.
I had a buddy of mine get a JDM s4T engine and it ran like crap when he installed it but it was due to a cracked/leaky fuel injector. So you can luck out.
If I was to ever do it again I would just buy used irons, housings, rotors ect. and do the rebuild myself or have it rebuilt. At least then you know what you're working with.
Those JDM companies will not do a warranty on the motors because rotaries are usually motors that get beat on at one point or another.
Anythings better then paying 2k and then your motor needs another chunk of money to rebuild.
Just my opinion
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#8
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+1
The FSM and a good video should be all you need documentation wise. A rotary was actually the first engine I ever rebuilt and that was back before I had the internet and this site.
What have you done on those motors? I f you can rebuild a 350 or LS motor then you should be capable of rebuilding a rotary.
The FSM and a good video should be all you need documentation wise. A rotary was actually the first engine I ever rebuilt and that was back before I had the internet and this site.
What have you done on those motors? I f you can rebuild a 350 or LS motor then you should be capable of rebuilding a rotary.
I will search up a video and that is good to hear that someone with not much prior knowledge can do the rebuild. I've basically pulled and put several 350/ls motors back in C10s/camaros. As far as internals go, I have attended projects with my father (the real expert) with installing pistons, rings, rods, and crankshaft. But as for a full rebuild, no I do not have experience doing a full rebuild.
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Search AAron Cakes rebuild video on Youtube if you need an insight on how a rotary rebuild would go.
My personal experience with a shipped JDM motor was not good. For what I paid to get the engine and what I had to pay to rebuild/port it after it spun the bearing and seized the front half of the motor in my drive-way (before ever driving it due to a bad previous rebuild), I coulda just bought a clean TII with the works.
I had a buddy of mine get a JDM s4T engine and it ran like crap when he installed it but it was due to a cracked/leaky fuel injector. So you can luck out.
If I was to ever do it again I would just buy used irons, housings, rotors ect. and do the rebuild myself or have it rebuilt. At least then you know what you're working with.
Those JDM companies will not do a warranty on the motors because rotaries are usually motors that get beat on at one point or another.
Anythings better then paying 2k and then your motor needs another chunk of money to rebuild.
Just my opinion
My personal experience with a shipped JDM motor was not good. For what I paid to get the engine and what I had to pay to rebuild/port it after it spun the bearing and seized the front half of the motor in my drive-way (before ever driving it due to a bad previous rebuild), I coulda just bought a clean TII with the works.
I had a buddy of mine get a JDM s4T engine and it ran like crap when he installed it but it was due to a cracked/leaky fuel injector. So you can luck out.
If I was to ever do it again I would just buy used irons, housings, rotors ect. and do the rebuild myself or have it rebuilt. At least then you know what you're working with.
Those JDM companies will not do a warranty on the motors because rotaries are usually motors that get beat on at one point or another.
Anythings better then paying 2k and then your motor needs another chunk of money to rebuild.
Just my opinion
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it is not a good recipe for consistent results
#11
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the precision required to rebuild (properly) a rotary engine of any kind is far greater than that of building a piston engine. Ive built countless piston engines and can say that the attention to details is whats going to kill you here. Yes things like putting the ring gaps on the high side of a carbed v8 so the gas doesnt wash away oil is important, but its nothing like trying to keep the side seal angle proper as you file it down.
just be ready to "check, recheck then check again" when doing a rotary build
just be ready to "check, recheck then check again" when doing a rotary build
#12
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Just thought I'd throw my 2 cents out here. I rebuilt my 90 na motor this time last year and it was my first rebuild! All I had was the rebuild video from Atkins. The rebuild it self I found to be pretty simple. Even ported the motor myself as well. I'm 20 years old and did all that with little to no problems. I'm sure if you understand how the rotary works and have a pretty good mechanical back ground you can tackle the rebuild saving money and getting a great experience as well out of it! I know I did and now in getting ready to do a turbo rebuild. I love these engines!
#13
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It is a simple swap. Takes only about 40 hours if you have everything you need.
Use your usdm na wiring harness (just have to rewire two connectors), and source a usdm s5 TII ecu if you are going to run the oem ecu.
The jdm vs usdm fuel lines are swapped.
My car did not have a check valve on the brake booster vacuum line, so I had to add one. If you hit boost without one, you physically can not push the pedal down (very scary while speeding toward a busy intersection).
The supplier that I sourced my engine from is out of business, so I am unsure of a good one. There was a guy on here japan2la that used to import engines along with many other parts. He wasn't very nice, but you might track him down and see if he has any good engines left.
Use your usdm na wiring harness (just have to rewire two connectors), and source a usdm s5 TII ecu if you are going to run the oem ecu.
The jdm vs usdm fuel lines are swapped.
My car did not have a check valve on the brake booster vacuum line, so I had to add one. If you hit boost without one, you physically can not push the pedal down (very scary while speeding toward a busy intersection).
The supplier that I sourced my engine from is out of business, so I am unsure of a good one. There was a guy on here japan2la that used to import engines along with many other parts. He wasn't very nice, but you might track him down and see if he has any good engines left.
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