Steering wheel lock
#1
No Sleep
Thread Starter
Steering wheel lock
The car has an aftermarket hub/quick release combo. After removing the key and turning the steering to lock it it faces straight. However when I drive it's crooked. Was it put on wrong or do I need to align the car?
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
I am trying to block the whole scenario from my memory as that stock wheel just did not want to come off! lol
Tom
#6
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
What actually holds the wheel is the taper on the shaft and hub.
A Top Tip...
When fitting a new (non OEM) hub/wheel, for the first trial fit remove the turn signal transfer collar and then bolt the assembly down tight. With the column surround trim removed, you can measure the distance between the hub and the TS switch on the column and confirm that there's room for the collar. One of my Momo hubs must have had a slightly different taper or something but had I cranked the wheel tight, it would have crushed the collar and probably not fully seated.
#7
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
Yes they are, for alignment.
What actually holds the wheel is the taper on the shaft and hub.
A Top Tip...
When fitting a new (non OEM) hub/wheel, for the first trial fit remove the turn signal transfer collar and then bolt the assembly down tight. With the column surround trim removed, you can measure the distance between the hub and the TS switch on the column and confirm that there's room for the collar. One of my Momo hubs must have had a slightly different taper or something but had I cranked the wheel tight, it would have crushed the collar and probably not fully seated.
What actually holds the wheel is the taper on the shaft and hub.
A Top Tip...
When fitting a new (non OEM) hub/wheel, for the first trial fit remove the turn signal transfer collar and then bolt the assembly down tight. With the column surround trim removed, you can measure the distance between the hub and the TS switch on the column and confirm that there's room for the collar. One of my Momo hubs must have had a slightly different taper or something but had I cranked the wheel tight, it would have crushed the collar and probably not fully seated.
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#8
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fun fact the diameter, splines and taper on the Mazda steering shaft is the same from sometime in the early 70's to now. it turns out that the spline machine is really expensive, and thus splines are a bit like threads, for a given shaft diameter, there is a fine and a coarse.
#10
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you aren't going to change splines, if its going to cost you a few million $$
#13
No Sleep
Thread Starter
I ordered the same brand hub for both my NA Miata and my S4 and I think they were the same. That being said I did loose my turn signals like rotary evolution said.