s5 t2 need some help please
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s5 t2 need some help please
Ok so I got this s5 with a 13bt the car its a 89 and I try to start it and it will crank but not run I check the fuel pump and I couldn't gear any noise from it I don't think it has power should it make noise when putting the key?? Any help will be appreciated, thanks in advance,
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It has absolutely no mods at all and I can't smell gas because I dont think its gwtting any, it looks like nobody has mess with it all original only 90xxx miles on it
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Find the circuit opening relay. It's located under the dash and just to the right of the steering column. It is Black and Yellow and has 5 wires. W/key to start the Blue wire(s) should have power? This wire feeds to the fuel resistor relay which then runs to the fuel pump.
If you jumper the fuel check connector and turn the key to on the pump should make noise as well as the Blue wire(s) having power to them at the relay previously mentioned. Jumpering the bottom two wires of the relay (Black wire and Brown wire) does the same thing as jumpering the check connector.
If you jumper the fuel check connector and turn the key to on the pump should make noise as well as the Blue wire(s) having power to them at the relay previously mentioned. Jumpering the bottom two wires of the relay (Black wire and Brown wire) does the same thing as jumpering the check connector.
Last edited by satch; 09-19-14 at 07:06 PM.
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Find the circuit opening relay. It's located under the dash and just to the right of the steering column. It is Black and Yellow and has 5 wires. W/key to start the Blue wire(s) should have power? This wire feeds to the fuel resistor relay which then runs to the fuel pump.*
If you jumper the fuel check connector and turn the key to on the pump should make noise as well as the Blue wire(s) having power to them at the relay previously mentioned. Jumpering the bottom two wires of the relay (Black wire and Brown wire) does the same thing as jumpering the check connector.
If you jumper the fuel check connector and turn the key to on the pump should make noise as well as the Blue wire(s) having power to them at the relay previously mentioned. Jumpering the bottom two wires of the relay (Black wire and Brown wire) does the same thing as jumpering the check connector.
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What does about to start the car mean? Either you are starting the car or you are not starting the car. The pump does not work just w/the key to on. You need to turn the key to start. If you jumper the fuel check connector or jumper the bottom two wires in the relay then the pump will turn on w/key to on. In either of these two situations the Blue wire will have voltage. Also, the middle wire top row (Black/White) should have voltage w/key to on. If it does not then check the 15 amp engine fuse (interior fuse box).
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What does about to start the car mean? Either you are starting the car or you are not starting the car. The pump does not work just w/the key to on. You need to turn the key to start. If you jumper the fuel check connector or jumper the bottom two wires in the relay then the pump will turn on w/key to on. In either of these two situations the Blue wire will have voltage. Also, the middle wire top row (Black/White) should have voltage w/key to on. If it does not then check the 15 amp engine fuse (interior fuse box).
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You need to check the last wire which is the solid Black wire as it is a ground. You check w/the meter set to continuity (no key in the ignition) and place one meter lead to the Black wire and the other meter lead to a know ground such as the body and the meter should ring out. If it doesn't then that is your problem. If it rings out then the relay is the problem. If the Black wire has a ground and the Black/Red wire has the close to 10 volts (and yours does) w/key to start then the Blue wire must have voltage. If it does not then the issue is likely the relay. The only other possibility is the Blue wire is accidentally grounded out which can be tested the same way the Black wire is tested.
Last edited by satch; 09-22-14 at 05:12 PM.
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You need to check the last wire which is the solid Black wire as it is a ground. You check w/the meter set to continuity (no key in the ignition) and place one meter lead to the Black wire and the other meter lead to a know ground such as the body and the meter should ring out. If it doesn't then that is your problem. If it rings out then the relay is the problem. If the Black wire has a ground and the Black/Red wire has the close to 10 volts (and yours does) w/key to start then the Blue wire must have voltage. If it does not then the issue is likely the relay. The only other possibility is the Blue wire is accidentally grounded out which can be tested the same way the Black wire is tested.
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I just went to my local store and they told me it cost $90 bucks, is it that expensive or they trying to ripped me off? Any ideas were I can get it for cheaper? Thanks again I know im beeing a pain in the but lol
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Ok so I just read almost the hole manual for the rx7 thanks to eage8 that provide me the manual it was a big help, also to satch that keep it up helping me out well loong story short I went to do a second check in the car and relay and everything came up great as it should be wich its good right?? I went crank the engine and check the conections and it read all the volts how it supposed to, now what im thinking its the fuel pump went out, I disconnect the hoses and no gas came up, should I buy a new pump?? What do the experts suggest? ?? Im pull the pump tomorrow and take some pics
#24
Hey...Cut it out!
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Pull the pump and test it first before buying anything. You will hate this, because the pump flange screws (M4x0.7 thread, ~15mm long) are phillips head and take plenty of persuasion with PB Blaster to break loose. A screwdriver that you can attach a ratchet to really helps a lot to get enough downforce (left hand) and leverage (with your right hand). Sears sells them here: Sears.com
After you get the pump hangar out, extract the pump (2 wires) and try hotwiring it to the battery. Polarity doesn't matter, it just needs to spring to life. If it doesn't, it's dead. As for upgrades, start with a FD pump. They can be found in the classifieds for pretty cheap.
After you get the pump hangar out, extract the pump (2 wires) and try hotwiring it to the battery. Polarity doesn't matter, it just needs to spring to life. If it doesn't, it's dead. As for upgrades, start with a FD pump. They can be found in the classifieds for pretty cheap.
#25
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The pump connects to the rear harness. The rear harness houses the Blue/Green wire. This is the wire which powers the pump. If you have voltage at the Blue wire at the relay then the Blue wire at the pump connector should have voltage as well. If it doesn't then you have an issue at the fuel relay in the engine compartment.