i finally got it. i started a thread before about this asking if anyone else had done it, but i couldnt get much info..
SO, hopefully this will make it into the archives, incase anyone else is considering or has done this.
ok, as many of you know, the s5 gauges have a different look and style, and also produce less glare than the s4s.
when you goto install it, the harness from an s4 plugs right in, but the problems is that some of the lights are in the wrong order. ie - parking brake = low fuel light.
after searching through the FSMs and wiring diagrams, i came up with this.
take note of the legend to the left, and orient yourself by looking at the rough sketch to the right of how the pins are arranged on the series 4 and series 5.
btw - the spots in the plug i left blank are either for grounds or power for the clock. you are only concerned about the ones i have labelled
you will be rearranging the wiring on the harness. the pins pop out, but it takes a tiny tiny screwdriver to push the tab out of the way that locks each wire into place. it's hard to explain, but youll understand what i mean when you goto do it.
do ONE AT A TIME, DO NOT REMOVE ALL OF THEM AT ONCE AND START FRESH.
for example, we see in the picture that where the signal for low fuel, it is correct when connected to an s4 gauge. looking at the s5 arrangement, we see a low fuel signal will activate the low washer indicator light. this is obviously wrong. so, remove the low fuel signal wire from the harness, and then figure out where it is suppost to be. according to the diagram, on the s5, it must go to the left one space, and down one space. now orienting yourself back on the s4 picture, we see that the low fuel signal wire belongs in the parking brake switch place in the harness. so, remove it, and insert the low fuel switch in its place.
there. now you have one finished, and now deal with the parking brake switch the same way you dealt with the gas light switch as above posted.
(cliff notes of above paragraph)
remove low fuel signal wire.
see diagram for where it should be to work on the s5 cluster.
notice it is where the parking brake switch wire is currently.
remove park brake switch wire, insert low fuel signal wire.
now deal with park brake switch as noted above (one at a time!), until complete.
the way im describing it sounds a little confusing, but once your going at it, you will understand what i mean.
rewiring the harness took me 10 minutes and i had no problems, everyhting worked perfectly.
this is probably the easiest, fastest, and cheapest (depending on where you got the warning cluster and trim from - i got it for 5 bucks at the scrappers) mod to do. to all the FC guru's sitting in your car, it's also one of the most noticeable.
if you SMELL anything when you turn the key on, see any smoke, or anything fishy coming from the harness you just worked on, IMMEDIATELY KEY THE CAR OFF and re-evaluate your work. you may have a mixed up wire and you may start a fire.
hope this helps anyone out there curious about switching over.
btw - forgot to include these (conisdering the search doesnt allow anything less than 3 characters and "s4" is less than 3 )
keywords for the forums search engine:
series4 series5 series 4 series 5 warning light clock cluster idiot gauge unit
__________________ 1979 SA
i was reading alot about it, but the thing that worried me was something about using the incorrect type of lamp or LED or something without some type of resistor.. or something.. and it will overload the ECU and possibly fry it..
any comments? can you clear that up for me?
__________________ 1979 SA
Ah, I see. That's what all JDM warning light clusters are like. Here's a pic of my S4 one. The two spots at the left were blank (no fan light on JDM's and no hatch light on 'verts) so I installed two LED's for reading error codes.
'88 Turbo Convertible (Japanese import) click for pics
Last edited by NZConvertible; 05-26-03 at 09:53 AM.
Originally posted by NZConvertible Ah, I see. That's what all JDM warning light clusters are like. Here's a pic of my S4 one. The two spots at the left were blank (no fan light on JDM's and no hatch light on 'verts) so I installed two LED's for reading error codes.
That is the same exact panel as the US spec vert (minus the LEDs of course).
Too bad the orginiator of this thread didn't understand that. It appears that he thinks that is an 89+ panel.
And here is another one. This is an 88-92 coupe panel in my 'vert, that I hooked up the hatch light up to the hatch trigger at the security system, and then blacked out the word "hatch" so that I would have an open truck signal.
But there was no re-wiring needed (other than running the single wire that the 'verts don't have), it plugged right in, and since it was the same as the 88 panel (except the 'vert panels don't have the last two lights on the left) even the 88 trim panel fit perfect.
Most electrical gremlins actually sit behind the wheel when the car is on the road.
Give a person a fish, they eat for a day. Suggest they search before posting and they learn a skill for a lifetime.