Replacing broken seat belt bolts
07-13-07, 12:37 AM
#1
Replacing broken seat belt bolts
OK so I am in the process of rust repair on my car right now. Both of the bolts that hold the latch part of the belt (the part on the tranny hump) were quite rusted, as well as the rest of the belt anchors. So, even though I saturated the entire area with PB plaster, both bolts snapped upon trying to remove them.
I drilled the first one so i could use my bolt remover, and even though the hole appears to be just under the thread size whats left of the bolt isn't coming out. I have no doubt that the other bolt will be any different. So...............
What is my best route to go?
Should I just retap it to a slightly larger bolt? Its m12x1.5 so i might be able to get away with 1/2" but I would have to enlarge the hole on the anchor slightly to accept the larger bolt.
My other thought is it use a helical insert to get the right size bolts back in. The article I just read on them states that they are drilled and tapped int a slightly larger hole, and then fed in with a tool. They are supposed to be stronger then the original (stainless coil) and I wouldn't have to remove any metal from the anchor.
So far those are my only two thoughts.
Anyone ever have to do this?
I drilled the first one so i could use my bolt remover, and even though the hole appears to be just under the thread size whats left of the bolt isn't coming out. I have no doubt that the other bolt will be any different. So...............
What is my best route to go?
Should I just retap it to a slightly larger bolt? Its m12x1.5 so i might be able to get away with 1/2" but I would have to enlarge the hole on the anchor slightly to accept the larger bolt.
My other thought is it use a helical insert to get the right size bolts back in. The article I just read on them states that they are drilled and tapped int a slightly larger hole, and then fed in with a tool. They are supposed to be stronger then the original (stainless coil) and I wouldn't have to remove any metal from the anchor.
So far those are my only two thoughts.
Anyone ever have to do this?
07-13-07, 07:02 AM
#2
Fortunately my RX didn't suffer this problem but my Z did.
You do have another option...weld studs into the holes and use nuts to hold the belts. It ain't elegant but it'll work.
I'd probably just retap to a larger size and ream the belt holes to fit.
And use lots of anti-seize on the bolts.
You do have another option...weld studs into the holes and use nuts to hold the belts. It ain't elegant but it'll work.
I'd probably just retap to a larger size and ream the belt holes to fit.
And use lots of anti-seize on the bolts.
07-13-07, 08:36 AM
#3
Taste great, more filling
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First I'd try drilling the center of the bolt all the way through as big as you can, then see if you can turn it by hand with a big screwdriver. If you can get enough material out of the middle, then the torsion forces should let it flex enough to break the seal. I couldn't get easy-outs to work with a broken radiator drain plug on a BMW, but using a flat screwdriver it turned right out.
07-20-07, 07:10 AM
#5
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Dude becareful not to break the nut.
How the seat works is that its a nut that is welded on the frame from inside. If you torque it to much, you can end up breaking the weld that holds the nut in place hence, not be able to do anything else without cutting and re-welding, which is a pain in the ***....
Ask me how I know.
How the seat works is that its a nut that is welded on the frame from inside. If you torque it to much, you can end up breaking the weld that holds the nut in place hence, not be able to do anything else without cutting and re-welding, which is a pain in the ***....
Ask me how I know.
