power steering removal
12-09-03, 05:22 PM
#83
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Power Steering Removal
1. Take off all of the power steering crap.
2. Install a new or used manual steering rack.
Simple enough??
The old "bypass the pump" method is just downright sad. It's the poorest way I have ever seen to treat your RX7. To me it would be like updating the injection system by removing the injectors and installing a gate valve next to the steering column to control acceleration.
2. Install a new or used manual steering rack.
Simple enough??
The old "bypass the pump" method is just downright sad. It's the poorest way I have ever seen to treat your RX7. To me it would be like updating the injection system by removing the injectors and installing a gate valve next to the steering column to control acceleration.
01-07-04, 05:33 PM
#85
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i'm still searching for the bolts. once i find them, i'm buying quite a few and selling em to whoever needs em. i know from experience that they are not easy to find.
01-07-04, 05:35 PM
#86
Originally posted by casio
i'm still searching for the bolts. once i find them, i'm buying quite a few and selling em to whoever needs em. i know from experience that they are not easy to find.
i'm still searching for the bolts. once i find them, i'm buying quite a few and selling em to whoever needs em. i know from experience that they are not easy to find.
01-07-04, 05:42 PM
#87
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unfortunately, i have the "ditched belt mod." i feel ghetto, but my PS had a leak [massive] and i didnt care to fix it [nor look for it]. so i prefer hard steering to hard steering then, within a split second, really good steering. it was throwin me off and the car felt dangerous to drive, so i cut the belt off. that and i don't have to hear that thing squeal like a pig.
09-01-04, 06:22 PM
#89
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I hate revive such an old thread, but some questions came up. I've been thinking about doing this since my steering feels sloppy during freeway driving, and I'm sick of messing with all that crap on the right side of the engine.
You guys were talking about draining the system, and I could tell you that's not a good idea, but what about getting rid of all the fluids and replacing them with a good synth. gear lube like Royal Purple? All that rack consists of is a gear that moves a worm gear when you turn it, right?
Also, what about A/C removal? My system is dead, and I really don't want to go through the trouble of finding leaks and recharging it, so I would really just like to pull the whole shlew and sell it or dump it. What do you have to pull to get rid off all that junk?
Thanks guys!
You guys were talking about draining the system, and I could tell you that's not a good idea, but what about getting rid of all the fluids and replacing them with a good synth. gear lube like Royal Purple? All that rack consists of is a gear that moves a worm gear when you turn it, right?
Also, what about A/C removal? My system is dead, and I really don't want to go through the trouble of finding leaks and recharging it, so I would really just like to pull the whole shlew and sell it or dump it. What do you have to pull to get rid off all that junk?
Thanks guys!
09-01-04, 06:56 PM
#90
Lives on the Forum
There are several ways to "remove" the power steering, I finally went all-out due to some bearing problems down in the servo valve on the rack...
Removed the rack from the car (turned out to be fairly simple, actually), removed the nut at the end of the "spindle" and removed the servo valve from the rack, pulled all internal seals off of the valve (except the end seals, just to keep the grease in there), removed what was left of the middle needle bearing (2 other ball bearings at each end are sufficient), turned the rack end-to-end several times to completely drain all fluid, repacked the cylinders with graphite-based lubricant (can't let 'em get dry), and attatched clear tubing to the fluid pressure/exit ports, about 1 1/2' each, to accept the "overflow" lubricant during turns. Then packed the servo valve with bearing grease and reinstalled onto the rack, greased the crap out of the rack teeth & the "pinion", threw the rack back on the car, and haven't had a problem with her since then...
Removed the rack from the car (turned out to be fairly simple, actually), removed the nut at the end of the "spindle" and removed the servo valve from the rack, pulled all internal seals off of the valve (except the end seals, just to keep the grease in there), removed what was left of the middle needle bearing (2 other ball bearings at each end are sufficient), turned the rack end-to-end several times to completely drain all fluid, repacked the cylinders with graphite-based lubricant (can't let 'em get dry), and attatched clear tubing to the fluid pressure/exit ports, about 1 1/2' each, to accept the "overflow" lubricant during turns. Then packed the servo valve with bearing grease and reinstalled onto the rack, greased the crap out of the rack teeth & the "pinion", threw the rack back on the car, and haven't had a problem with her since then...
09-01-04, 11:38 PM
#93
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If you do what Wayne and myself with, I'm sure it's fine. I drained mine and capped it at first.. This summer while my car was off the road, I packed it with lube..
09-08-04, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by patman
just to add my support i did it too. i like it much better now. It is a little harder when stopped, and at very low speeds, but it doesnt bother me at all. (im pretty strong tho..) but at above 5 mph it is a vast improvement imho.
much more feedback u really feel the road, no more granny car.
no it does not make ur car much faster. there is maybe a 1 or 2 hp gain and u lose 50 lbs if u take out the ac too. no big deal.
the best ting about this project is the extra room u have when u are done. it is totally amazing. guaranteed to make ya smile.
ps if u loop the feed and return hoses instead of plugging em it makes it a little easier to steer.
just my $.02
-Pat
much more feedback u really feel the road, no more granny car.
no it does not make ur car much faster. there is maybe a 1 or 2 hp gain and u lose 50 lbs if u take out the ac too. no big deal.
the best ting about this project is the extra room u have when u are done. it is totally amazing. guaranteed to make ya smile.
ps if u loop the feed and return hoses instead of plugging em it makes it a little easier to steer.
just my $.02
-Pat
thanx to anyone that can answer my noobish questions
09-08-04, 10:29 PM
#95
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Originally Posted by patman
if you are going to go to all that trouble just buy a manual steering rack off a base model. a good junk yard should have one for a reasonable price.
pat
pat
11-03-04, 05:57 PM
#96
sorry to bump an old post but i'm still stuck here... can ANYONE post a picture of exactly WHERE they plugged their 3 lines? for the two pressure lines, did you all plug those two down by under the a/c compressor? i am not seeing any threads whatsoever where the bolts should screw into... are they down by the steering mech after the two pressure hoses/lines goes from black rubber to hard metal lines?
and for the hard metal cooling line, i got to unbolting the whole assembly then realized something, the hard metal line coming from the pump itself goes down under the battery tray, goes behind the front bumped till the left headlamp, makes a loop and goes back the same way it came but ends up i assume connected to the steering mechanism. should i leave the looped line there and cap the metal cooling line at the fender? or cap it at the steering mech.
problem is the GD a/c is in the way to do all this. i'm going to take it out but not till i read up on how to do it.
and for the hard metal cooling line, i got to unbolting the whole assembly then realized something, the hard metal line coming from the pump itself goes down under the battery tray, goes behind the front bumped till the left headlamp, makes a loop and goes back the same way it came but ends up i assume connected to the steering mechanism. should i leave the looped line there and cap the metal cooling line at the fender? or cap it at the steering mech.
problem is the GD a/c is in the way to do all this. i'm going to take it out but not till i read up on how to do it.
11-03-04, 08:19 PM
#97
quicker response is not necessarily better, considering that a manual rack is easier to turn.
loop the compressor lines, plug the cooler line.
best way to do it is to plug the cooler line with a NPT fitting, and cut the metal parts of the other lines about 2 inches from the rack, then fit a rubber hose over the ends and hose clamp it on there.
if you aren't removing the ac, there isnt too much point in removing the ps, unless you just want the more responsive feel.
DONT FORGET to drain out 95% of the fluid, otherwise your plug/line/something will explode all over your engine bay the first time you turn the wheel all the way. believe me i know.
anybody that needs help with this can im me, if im not busy i'll be glad to help.
pat
loop the compressor lines, plug the cooler line.
best way to do it is to plug the cooler line with a NPT fitting, and cut the metal parts of the other lines about 2 inches from the rack, then fit a rubber hose over the ends and hose clamp it on there.
if you aren't removing the ac, there isnt too much point in removing the ps, unless you just want the more responsive feel.
DONT FORGET to drain out 95% of the fluid, otherwise your plug/line/something will explode all over your engine bay the first time you turn the wheel all the way. believe me i know.
anybody that needs help with this can im me, if im not busy i'll be glad to help.
pat
11-12-05, 12:29 PM
#100
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jesus frickin' christ. . . it took more work to find this damn write-up than to actually pull my power steering. it was very informative though, thaks a million to everyone who contributed.