OMP-Pre-mix mod Write-up
04-19-03, 12:19 PM
#1
OMP-Pre-mix mod Write-up
Ok well since some of my online buddies want to see a step by step I will write this up for them.
Materials I used:
**Dremmel rotary tool (some fiberglass reinforced cutting wheels will make short work of the steel to be cut in this project)
**Four 10mm x 1.0 bolts (or 10mm x 1.25 for the TII - be sure to double-check this) with thread sealant to plug the stock oil injector holes
**Permatex Black RTV
**Some 1/8" thick steel plate to cut the block off plate from
**A vacuum cap to plug the nipple that feeds the vacuum spider
**A ratchet and wrench set with sizes from 10mm to 13mm I believe, some normal pliers and a screwdriver.
Time to do this: About six hours give or take 30 minutes.
Steps:
1) Before you begin it would be best if you had a full tank of premix. Hold off on your last fill-up (last one before removing the OMP) until the low fuel light comes on. Then go to a gas station, add the premix (pre-mix ratio should be about a 100:1 ratio, meaning 1 oz per gallon) and fill the tank.
2) Remove the UIM
NOTE: clean up the area around the oil injectors before removal and put a rag into the intake ports of the LIM to protect the engine from dirt and dust
3) Remove the oil injectors from the LIM and from the engine block. For the engine block oil injectors you will need a pair of vice grips with a needle nose on them, or a thin wrench.
3-a) You will need to remove/break off the vacuum lines that are connected to the injectors and place a vacuum cap on the intake manifold where they hook up as one large hose.
4) After removing the injectors use thread sealant on the bolts and then place the bolts in the holes and tighten them up nicely, making sure that they do not protrude into the intake manifold (I had to cut them down to size with my dremmel. I just matched the thread count on the injectors to the bolts.) A good idea might also be to put a dab of RTV on the last bit of thread to make sure they are air tight and will not cause a vacuum leak.
5) At this point you can place the UIM back on (a new gasket for this would be a good idea since they break easily and are already about 15 years old)
6) Time to remove the OMP. It is very simple as only two bolts hold it on. I believe they were 10mm.
remember to clean the surrounding area.
7) Take the OMP and trace the back of it to make your block-off plate.
8) With a template ready get your steel plate and cut out the outline of the OMP (you should sand down the edges as they become very rough and sharp.)
9) Now make the holes for the bolts on the block-off plate. I used the dremmel's drill bit to enlarge the holes.
10) After all of this you can put some RTV on the steel plate and bolt it down to where the OMP used to be.
NOTE: since the steel plate is considerably thinner than the OMP itself you will need to add some thick washers for the bolts to tighten up nicely.
11) Allow the RTV to cure for at least an hour.
12) Start the car and check for leaks around the block-off plate and listen for vaccum leaks.
If you all have any questions ask them I am happy to help. I will look for the appropriate sizes of bolts and washers later on and post them on here.
Updated by request,EDITING credit to AMUR_
Materials I used:
**Dremmel rotary tool (some fiberglass reinforced cutting wheels will make short work of the steel to be cut in this project)
**Four 10mm x 1.0 bolts (or 10mm x 1.25 for the TII - be sure to double-check this) with thread sealant to plug the stock oil injector holes
**Permatex Black RTV
**Some 1/8" thick steel plate to cut the block off plate from
**A vacuum cap to plug the nipple that feeds the vacuum spider
**A ratchet and wrench set with sizes from 10mm to 13mm I believe, some normal pliers and a screwdriver.
Time to do this: About six hours give or take 30 minutes.
Steps:
1) Before you begin it would be best if you had a full tank of premix. Hold off on your last fill-up (last one before removing the OMP) until the low fuel light comes on. Then go to a gas station, add the premix (pre-mix ratio should be about a 100:1 ratio, meaning 1 oz per gallon) and fill the tank.
2) Remove the UIM
NOTE: clean up the area around the oil injectors before removal and put a rag into the intake ports of the LIM to protect the engine from dirt and dust
3) Remove the oil injectors from the LIM and from the engine block. For the engine block oil injectors you will need a pair of vice grips with a needle nose on them, or a thin wrench.
3-a) You will need to remove/break off the vacuum lines that are connected to the injectors and place a vacuum cap on the intake manifold where they hook up as one large hose.
4) After removing the injectors use thread sealant on the bolts and then place the bolts in the holes and tighten them up nicely, making sure that they do not protrude into the intake manifold (I had to cut them down to size with my dremmel. I just matched the thread count on the injectors to the bolts.) A good idea might also be to put a dab of RTV on the last bit of thread to make sure they are air tight and will not cause a vacuum leak.
5) At this point you can place the UIM back on (a new gasket for this would be a good idea since they break easily and are already about 15 years old)
6) Time to remove the OMP. It is very simple as only two bolts hold it on. I believe they were 10mm.
remember to clean the surrounding area.
7) Take the OMP and trace the back of it to make your block-off plate.
8) With a template ready get your steel plate and cut out the outline of the OMP (you should sand down the edges as they become very rough and sharp.)
9) Now make the holes for the bolts on the block-off plate. I used the dremmel's drill bit to enlarge the holes.
10) After all of this you can put some RTV on the steel plate and bolt it down to where the OMP used to be.
NOTE: since the steel plate is considerably thinner than the OMP itself you will need to add some thick washers for the bolts to tighten up nicely.
11) Allow the RTV to cure for at least an hour.
12) Start the car and check for leaks around the block-off plate and listen for vaccum leaks.
If you all have any questions ask them I am happy to help. I will look for the appropriate sizes of bolts and washers later on and post them on here.
Updated by request,EDITING credit to AMUR_
Last edited by Icemark; 04-19-03 at 08:52 PM.
04-19-03, 04:45 PM
#5
FC Mobsta
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...power+steering
Everything you need to know in that thread about removing power steering!!! Archive! Save many people alot of time!
Everything you need to know in that thread about removing power steering!!! Archive! Save many people alot of time!
04-19-03, 06:15 PM
#6
Refined Valley Dude
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
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Originally posted by marcus219
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...power+steering
Everything you need to know in that thread about removing power steering!!! Archive! Save many people alot of time!
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...power+steering
Everything you need to know in that thread about removing power steering!!! Archive! Save many people alot of time!
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04-20-03, 08:13 PM
#10
Originally posted by Cory Simpson
nice write up, but jesus it just took me about 2-3 hours at the very most.
nice write up, but jesus it just took me about 2-3 hours at the very most.
well I should have said a person with ADD takes that long. hahaha
I daydream about driving while fixing things and take longer than I should.
04-20-03, 08:44 PM
#12
Refined Valley Dude
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
well I should have said a person with ADD takes that long. hahaha
I daydream about driving while fixing things and take longer than I should.
well I should have said a person with ADD takes that long. hahaha
I daydream about driving while fixing things and take longer than I should.
It took a while to find that chess pic.
04-21-03, 06:01 PM
#19
I'm your huckleberry..
Join Date: Jul 2002
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Only question: When it comes to smog, I know alcohol or methyl hydrate something is good to put in the tank, but now that there is 2 stroke oil in the gastank, is alcohol a big no no?
04-23-03, 03:38 AM
#20
FB=OS Giken LSD
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A Slight correction.
Very good post. I had to figure this all out myself so it took me a while. However, the actual work only took about two hours as I've pulled off my intake manifold more times than I care to remember. I have a late second gen, which, as everyone knows, is different than the early ones. My car has three bolts on the OMP not two. The third one is hard to get to but it is still in there. I don't want some bozo yanking it off when there is still a bolt in there. I also paid the $10 to get a nice looking plate as mentioned above. I can't wait to get sent home from Saudi Arabia and get under my car. It has been so long...
04-23-03, 10:20 PM
#23
Originally posted by LilredneckRX7
Hello people i am 15 and just got a rx7 2gen and as of today i well be rebuilding the motor for high boost, if there is a problem with that please say so.
Hello people i am 15 and just got a rx7 2gen and as of today i well be rebuilding the motor for high boost, if there is a problem with that please say so.
WTF why did you post it in my thread?
04-23-03, 10:59 PM
#24
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2002
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If my oil level doesn't drop very much between oil changes...is that a sign that maybe my OMP isn't working properly? I've been using MarvelMysteryOil regularly, about 8oz every fillup, usually 10-14 gallons.
Craig
88 TII
--S5 Tails
--S5 TII Mirrors
--Soon-Walbro 255
--Soon-680cc Sec. w/impedence converter
--Soon-TID mod w/K&N or Apex'i filter
--Soon-Elec. Radiator Fan from V6 Fiero
--Lowe's boost controller
--RadioCrack FCD
--Bought almost all the parts for custom turbo back but I finally broke down and now I'm going to get the Racing Beat Kit. Figured it'd be better in the long run.
Ya, I think that's it for now.
Craig
88 TII
--S5 Tails
--S5 TII Mirrors
--Soon-Walbro 255
--Soon-680cc Sec. w/impedence converter
--Soon-TID mod w/K&N or Apex'i filter
--Soon-Elec. Radiator Fan from V6 Fiero
--Lowe's boost controller
--RadioCrack FCD
--Bought almost all the parts for custom turbo back but I finally broke down and now I'm going to get the Racing Beat Kit. Figured it'd be better in the long run.
Ya, I think that's it for now.