gbaki

Cant figure it out. When I start the vehicle, it revs out of control at about 3 to 4000 rpms. After about maybe 30 to 40 seconds it returns to normal. why is it doing this. Cant be an air leak, because filter was recently change. Im not really sure. If you guys could help me out, Id trully appreciate.. Thanks..

CyborgRyu

iTrader: (8)

normal, cold start assist warm up. you can make it not do that by leaving it in 1st gear when you start the car. then after 30 seconds, put it in neutral

Soma

Yeah, that cant be good on your seals in cold climates...
prolong the life of your engine and leave it in gear when you start it up!

Boostmaniac

Yeah, or a little throttle blip clears mine right up.

You can get a few things to remove it though, Rtek being the foremost at the front of my mind.

playdeadva

+1 i get chills up my spine when i hear my car aggressivly shoot to 3k when i can still see my breath. leave it in gear for start up ftw

Gallardo's Eggroll Shop

it's ok to start the car while its in 1st gear? from personal experience... the car jolts foward and it is really bad to start it in 1st gear... so i would just like it clearified? do u like hold the clutch in put it into gear and leave ur foot on the clutch while u start the car? is that how u do it cause im really confused.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

i really dont think it is all that bad... alot of unmodified FC lasts a long time even with that system, yer knoe....

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

... yes, clutch IN, otherwise youll bump your way up the driveway

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

anytime you rev the engine cold with no oil pressure built its a bad thing, wether or not the engine fails isnt the issue. it IS bad for any engine

slpin

iTrader: (9)

it builds oil pressure when you crank.
maybe thats why it takes 3 cranks before it starts up
build up just enough oil pressure

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

it does build oil pressure after you crank it, but it takes a little time for the oil to circulate through the entire engine. especially if the car has sat over night, its all run back to the oil pan by then

slpin

iTrader: (9)

there will still be oil in the bearings.
it will be fine

most high mileage motor doesnt show any copper

i hate how everyone makes the 3000rpm warm up sound like the destruction of motor, but when pretty much all the motors that let go, around here or not, are due to overheating or apex seals going.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

that might be so, but bottom line is, 1200rpm warmup is better than 3000rpm any day of the week. better safe than sorry. ive never in my life hopped into my car one cold morning and cranked it up then rev it to 3000rpm to warm it up.

Twofer

You can disable the AWS by unplugging the sensor on the driver's side of the radiator, near the bottom. You should be able to see it clearly from the bottom, with the underbody pannel removed.

(Not to be confused with the coolant level sender at the top of the radiator.)

My car starts, revs to 3k, then down to 1.5k high idle.

Gallardo's Eggroll Shop

yeah same with my car. it revs to 3k then idles at 1500 till warm... which isnt that bad. as for the cold start system. isnt it bad to run a rotary while cold? and thats y the cold start system is there to heat up the engine? just checking...

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

its there to get the cat up to temp faster

Gallardo's Eggroll Shop

yeah forgot about that detail. well if you stop the cold start from starting. is that a bad for the cats?

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

perhaps, i wouldnt know because i live in alabama and we dont have emission control here So they are gone as soon as I get the cash for an exhaust system

bean13

iTrader: (1)

Its a no brainer to not rev and engine that high on start up. There just isnt sufficiant oil where it needs to be at that point. It still takes a few seconds to circulate through all the passages and bearings. The little residual amount that is left around the bearings is not enough for a high rev start. Synthetic (mobile 1) will help this due to better filming, but you have to disconect your oil injection and run premix fuel. When ever I start my race car I prime the oil pump first, most racers do on higly modified engines. I dont see why everyone even argues this. its just not a good idea. Save the engine a bit more, and leave her in first...nuf seid.

lchaidez

iTrader: (4)

I put mine in reverse before i start. Sometimes i think its good that its a cold start assist. But like you mentioned it probably isnt so healthy on the seals. Besides, i let my car warm up anyways, dont need to have the car screaming at 3-4rpm every morning ^^" it'll wake everybody up teeheehee...

RETed

It should not be going over 3kRPM on the cold start.
To keep it from doing that, either start the car in ANY gear (yes, clutch in) or just blip the throttle when it the RPM's start to climb.


-Ted

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

alright, first of all: this is why everyone says "read the FAQ!!!"

even if your clutch switch is screwed, you can't possibly start the car in first with the clutch engaged, so what do you think?

it makes no difference that it's a rotary. it's just that the bearing surfaces are relatively "dry" and it would be better to have lower amounts of friction until warm oil flows in there.

as far as cats, disabling aws will not hurt them... they just won't be at sufficient temperature to catalyze for a bit longer.

50/50

Are you guys seriosly saying that it's normal for his car to be at 3k at start up? Am I hearing this right? This is what I got from this thread... Somebody please clarify. Im pretty sure theres gotta be something wrong with a sensor thats causing this. I just can't believe that this is normal and putting it in first gear or the other ideas I've read here is the only way to stop this..

rotorymanincraig

I just blip my throttle and it drops down to 1500rpm. Do the turbo models rev that high when cold? That would be bad for a turbo to spin up with cold oil.

riverzendz

Yep, you are hearing (seeing) just right. There is nothing wrong with any sensor. Unless disabled, they all do it. Remove the AWS solenoid and cap the vacuum lines, blip the throttle, or start in gear to keep it from happening like everyone has already said.