BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

You could mount the brake booster and master together in front of the throttle body with a loooong pushrod. Saw some British car like this from the factory (forget which).

You could mount your brake master directly to the firewall and remote mount the brake booster somewhere else. This is how my Honda was done from the factory on the disk brake models.

I would just fix the intake.

Wicked93gs

Found a cylinder that should work...from an 88 Mazda B2200 truck, picking it up tonight. Its a 7/8" bore just like the OEM piece...2 differences from what I see, the ports are where I want them, and the resevoir is offset toward the passenger side. I believe that I can flip the resevoir around and be offset to the left though...which would kill two birds with one stone...it would give me extra clearance at the resevoir as well. I cant yet say whether the pushrod wi work...but thats not much of an issue.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I am just curious if you had the 5 lug Turbo booster.
The 4 lug booster is smaller.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

I did some homework on brake boosters a few months ago for another project. It doesn't appear you have the room front-to-back as things are right now, but have you considered a smaller diameter dual-diaphragm brake booster? Some cars like the Foxbody Mustang go this route to save lateral space by using another 1-2" or so lengthwise to achieve the same effective 'boost' as compared to a larger single diaphragm booster like we have.

Wicked93gs

[URL=http://s147.photobucket.com/user/wicked93gs/media/20151004_152833_zps2yhgfp6w.jpg.html][/URL

Yeah, I dont have the depth for a booster like that, in my case it turns out the Miata booster with a B2200 master and a flipped B2200 resevoir was the key...as an added bonus the factory RX7 low fluid sensor clips right onto the b2200 resevoir(I flipped it around because originally it was offset towards the passenger side...this way works better...though I did break the 1st resevoir I had pulling it out so I had to get another). Its all a bolt in soulution...the master works with the Miata pushrod...and the Miata clevis has to be spread a bit, but works with the RX7 pedal.

blackball7

iTrader: (1)

I've gotta ask... Why the frankenRX?

Wicked93gs

Because I got it as a roller in trade for some parts and already had the drivetrain built. Seemed like a good chasis for it. I am not a purist of any sort...any car is a good platform for a swap in my eyes. Classic mustang with a Toyota V8? Sounds good. Nissan Skyline with an American 4 cylinder? Why not? All parts are mix and match. My daily driver right now is a 1977 Celica liftback with a Dodge Neon SRT4 engine that has been converted to RWD. So I guess the real answer to the question is because I can.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

If that engine has even a rch of movement, the plenum is gonna be bangin the booster/mc under load.
IMO.

Wicked93gs

Not with a torque strut it wont(which it will have by the time I finish). These are vertical engine mounts...which limit side to side movement to begin with...then after I add a torque strut on the passenger side(maybe fill it with grease to make it stiffer, but not solid) it will have about 1/4" movement max.

P.S. the angle of the picture makes it look worse than it is...there is roughly 5/8" clearance all around.

blackball7

iTrader: (1)

At least with that one, because it would be **** with an american 4 cylinder

Wicked93gs

And the Japaneese rb20 skylines are better? 230HP...compared to say a stock SRT4 neon engine...its a wash...but the weight is in favor of the 4 cylinder. What about a stock SRT4 Caliber engine...at 270ish HP its starting to look more appealing than a RB20...just because its an American 4 cylinder doesnt mean it cant make power. Import snobbery isnt all its cracked up to be.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

Aren't both those Chrysler engines really Mitsubishi?

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

just because its an American 4 cylinder doesnt mean it cant make power. Import snobbery isnt all its cracked up to be.

No! Ecoboost 4cyl is CRAP (ignore the fact that Ford used the Mazda MZR turbo engine and fixed its weaknesses.)

Good going finding a solution that worked for you!

Maybe someday I will be lucky enough to be trying to fit a overhead cam v8 into a Mazda and get to use this knowledge.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

TonyD89 Aren't both those Chrysler engines really Mitsubishi?

Wiki says they are more Lamborghini than anything.

Them K car roots!

The Chrysler 1.8, 2.0, and 2.4 are inline-4 engines designed originally for the Dodge and Plymouth Neon compact car. These engines were loosely based on their predecessors, the Chrysler 2.2 & 2.5 engine, sharing the same 87.5 mm bore. The DOHC head was developed by Chrysler with input from the Chrysler-Lamborghini team that developed the Chrysler/Lamborghini Formula 1 V12 engine in the early 1990s.[1]

The 2.2 and 2.5 are a family of inline-4 engines developed by Chrysler Corporation originally for the Chrysler K- and L-platforms cars and subsequently used in many other Chrysler vehicles. After its launch in 1981, it became the basis for all Chrysler-developed 4-cylinder engines until the Chrysler 1.8, 2.0 & 2.4 engine family was released in 1994.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Have you thought about using a first gen RX-7 booster? I know the second gen fits the first gen by hogging out the bolt holes just a little. You could do the same by hogging the bolt holes inward just a little.

blackball7

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking more along the line of an RB26TT. I think a skyline R33 or R34 can afford a little snobbery

Isn't there an RB36TT? Which ever is the straight 6 twin turbo, that thing is bitchin'!

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

RB26 is the straight 6 twin turbo 2.6 liter boat anchor.

blackball7

iTrader: (1)

Thought so, it's been over a decade since I've looked at the skylines closely... Quite the nice platform though