glhs0867

On average how long has everyone left SEAFOAM in the crankcase oil?

I was planning on leaving it in, till I reach my 1000 mile oil change.

Thanks

DavidHolmesIII

I dont think that would be a good idea. I have read many seafoam threads and I dont see why you put it in the oil. And from what I understand the chemicals in the seafoam will break down oils. I seafoamed via brake booster. If it was me, I would change the oil immediately.

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

The brake booster is not a good place to use seafoam.
If you you look on the lower intake manifold (at least on the NAs) the brake booster feeds vac off of the rear rotor only.

Punished

I wouldnt leave it in past 500 miles to be honest. I just dont trust what it can do if its in too long.

glhs0867

Thanks for advice.

I have already put on about 150 miles I also added SEAFOAM to my gas/oil mixture @ the same time, I put in the crankcase.

I noticed right away, it pulls little better.

1 1/2 oz per quart of oil

1 oz per gallon of gas.

totallimmortal

never used seafoam like that. I don't trust solvents in my oil since that stuff would seem to rinse oil off of what it should stay on, I guess it would clean things up tho, not to sure how good it is for all the rubber. I run it off any vac line that feed off the whole motor i like to go as close as possible to the TB. I like amsoil power foam much better tho give it a try after you change your oil

7fold

i believe its meant to but used for a short time and then the oil is to be changes.. it "works instantly" and i think if you give it 50 miles in the case then you should change the oil.

VacavilleFC

your definately gonna damage your motor if you don't get it out of there, basically it's like you PIIDB with no lube

farberio

iTrader: (7)

^+1
Seafoam cleans EVERYTHING!!! So for the little time you are seafoaming your are running your car with no lubrication. This is fine for a little bit of idle...but really bad for extended periods of time or for high rpm activity.

At least this is what I have been told.

Saavedro88

iTrader: (1)

I've heard it's supposed to be run on half a tank of gas. 1/3 of the bottle in the gas, 1/3 in the intake, and 1/3 in the oil. Run it out of gas, then change the oil (and get more gas, duh...).

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Dammit!!!

Thats why my car wouldn't run after seafoaming!!!

Hypertek

iTrader: (3)

for piston engines its good to run in the fuel tank , it cleans the injectors etc..

Ive ran it in my oil before in my old benz, what i did was pour into the oil when i was at the auto store, then drove it home and did the oil change.

But with a rotary engine im not sure i would want to try it.

Saavedro88

iTrader: (1)

Why not? Cleans out Carbon and the injectors in the same way...

nizzan1984

Your only supposed to keep the oil in around 150 miles or so after you added it in. when you drain the oil it will be much thicker also, which is 100% normal.

glhs0867

I checked the oil's look and feel after about 210 miles with SEAFOAM. The oil still looks good, its a little darker, the oil doesn't smell like gas yet.. its still very slick to the fingers. I am going to try maybe just putting on a new filter and run it somemore.

Stay tuned.

totallimmortal

If you've read up on this you should know that paticularly on a higher milage engine cleaning out all the carbon isn't always good, chunks can come dislodges and cause damage and some of that carbon may be benificial to sealing parts that are worn. As far as the injectors, if the need to be cleaned then screw additives take em out and sent them to be cleaned and flow tested. You've got to rememper this is much different than a piston engine, the rotors need to be lubed all the time and that seafoam doesn't help. the oil may look fine to you but there is no way you could tell by looking, smelling or feeling. No cleansing additive is meant to be left in the engine for anywhere near that long even in a piston engine, I would get that stuff out right now and change your oil. Like i said if you still feel like your internals need more cleaning try Amsoil Powerfoam, it works much better IMO, i used it on all my cars every 10k or so and almost always feel an imediate difference in power, and usually get a smoother idle, and more throttle response at least the first few times you use it. While powerfoam contains cleaners it also contains lube (upper cylinder lube) because they know that it will washdown cylinder walls. If you keep that crap in there don't be suprised if you see some smoke coming from your tail pipe in a few hundred mile as i wouldn't be supprised if you've already damaged some oil seals

glhs0867

That all could be true. But I have no smoke, plus the SEAFOAM has to destroy the crankcase oil and the premix in the gas..

I will keep you guys informed.

Thanks

VacavilleFC

your an idiot, your gonna blow your motor

totallimmortal

It's not that it could all be true it is, Your motors not gonna smoke right now or blow up in your face but if it starts smoking or running worse later be ready for the i told you so's. Just trying to help you man you asked how long you should leave it in and everone said get it out, if we'd have said 3000 mile would you have taken it out right away?

Corey Darling

My friend and I have been having a debate over seafoaming the motors.

I did it to my celica before my rebuild, some in the crankcase, some in the intake. none in the fuel.
I did notice an increase in performace - very small, possibly just placebo effect

Thing is, when i tore my motor apart a few months later, i found a number of oil seals leaking, my o2 sensor was shot (20L/100km or 10mpg) and the exhaust was starting to smoke more than normal. It only has 65k km, however its an '89

I only ran the seafoam in the crankcase for 50 km. I did a 50/50 split of seafoam through one of the vacumme lines on my TB, and the crank case.

When i tore into the motor, i found lots of carbon deposits on the top of the pistons, and all the valves. It had appeared as though Seafoam didnt even nick the surface.

So i tried pure seafoam on a rag, and scrubbed hard - all that was really removed was trace amount which appeared as a black smudge on the rag.

I let some valves sit over night in seafoam - no effect. Still had to scrape the stuff off.

So, there is no way im going to risk seafoaming my motor now thats its rebuilt with brand new seals.


My friend on the other hand, who has a 3rd gen, and is also rebuilding, has been squirting pure seafoam into his motor for a while now lol. We're hoping nothing bad has happened to it. kinda late now.

I dont know for sure if the seafoam caused the leaks, or if it just made them worse. But im not going to risk it.

There were also some black oily deposits (not carbon) on the Toyota Variable Induction System Butterfly Valves, which control airflow to the motor after the TB, right before the intake valves.
Sea foam failed to clean these off also.

My 2 cents.

VacavilleFC

please don't try to compare seafoaming a piston motor to a rotary motor,

Corey Darling

What would make them different?

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

Are you serious?

Corey Darling

Yes lol

They both have oil seals, they both have oil pan gaskets and oil squirters.

Both have turbos.... other than the fact one has rotors and apex seals, and the other has pistons and rings.... what would make seafoam affect one differently than the other?

im genuinely curious.

VacavilleFC

you understand how a rotary engine works right? triangle spinning around at high rpms with carbon seals on the 3 edges, the oil lubricates them creating compression and also keeps them from damaging the housings. strip that lubrication away and theres no longer anything protecting the the rotors from scratching the housing, you lose some compression also think about all the bearings inside that are no longer lubricated. also seafoam is corrosive, it could damage internal seals.

if i was going to seafoam a motor, i'd leave only leave it in for a couple hours at most and then clean the system out completely. but most likely i'd never do it in the first place