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Okay, gentlemen, apparently rotary cars can have regular problems too, it was TIMING. I still need to get a timing light to set it properly, but I fiddled with the CAS and got it in the ballpark, so it runs pretty well now. It idles way high and gets really rough down around where it should idle, but like I said, still have to time it properly and set the idle speed and mixture. I will say, however I find it hilarious that its electronic injection and ignition but you tune it exactly like a carbureted car with points ignition.
Did you check to make sure the secondary injectors aren't dribbling?
Another item to check is the injector resistor. After sitting, they corrode and the solder joints start to fail.
I will put those on my optimistic to-do list, I just need the car to be drivable for now so I can get it home and work on it over Christmas break (college student) I checked them briefly after I cleaned and reinstalled them, but it'd be worth looking again. I have not yet checked the resistor, is that the Rich/Lean rheostat that you use to set idle?
I will put those on my optimistic to-do list, I just need the car to be drivable for now so I can get it home and work on it over Christmas break (college student) I checked them briefly after I cleaned and reinstalled them, but it'd be worth looking again. I have not yet checked the resistor, is that the Rich/Lean rheostat that you use to set idle?
That's the variable resistor. The injector resistor is bolted to the passenger fender near the afm which makes sure low impedance injectors don't damage the ECU (found on early S4s).
OK, so I set the timing today, am I supposed to time the front leading plug to the red mark? All the tutorials I have found are unclear. It runs better, but still idles high and stalls occasionally at idle or while returning to idle. It also seems like it revs really slowly, like ill peg the throttle and it'll take several seconds to rev up to about 6,000 rpms. any thoughts? I still cant find any vacuum leaks.
OK, so I set the timing today, am I supposed to time the front leading plug to the red mark? All the tutorials I have found are unclear. It runs better, but still idles high and stalls occasionally at idle or while returning to idle. It also seems like it revs really slowly, like ill peg the throttle and it'll take several seconds to rev up to about 6,000 rpms. any thoughts? I still cant find any vacuum leaks.
I think someone gone and done put the main pulley on very incorrectly (or I painted the wrong marks) because I timed it to those marks and it ran like donkey ***** and wouldn't idle for ****. Afterwards I fiddled with the CAS, moved it a few teeth and went by feel, I'm still on the limit of the travel, so I have to go back and find the sweet spot, but it runs better than I've had it yet. It still feels a touch gutless but I'm still working on many tunings. Compression test tomorrow so that'll help me weed out these issues. Also, my brakes don't work, there was bubbling from the master but after much bleeding that has stopped, but now it just wont build pressure. I suppose there is still air in the lines (thats what it feels like) because the pedal just goes to the floor. (when bleeding the brakes they'll build pressure sometimes but its temperamental) Im just gonna keep bleeding and bleeding like regular brakes but i figured id see if anyone knew of any problems specific to these cars. Bonus pic of my girls.
Save yourself a bunch of time and replace the brake master, rebuild the calipers, replace the hoses (rubber or braided, doesn't matter), skim or replace rotors and get new pads.
Regular brake fluid doesn't age well- especially if just sitting and it's far easier to attack the brakes globally rather than chase problems one after another.
The parts are reasonably priced (long as you don't go crazy on pads) and you'll get a nice four corner tour of your undercarriage.
Compression check results are as follows:
Rotor 1: 90psi
Rotor 2: jack diddly squat
She's dead. Im not sure what I want to do now, I cant really justify rebuilding the 13B just because its so damn expensive, and I don't think the swap is going to be able to happen at the moment. It looks like i'm going to have to sell it or trade it for something drivable. What do you guys think its worth as it sits? If possible I'd love to trade it for a NA Miata, I have always loved those and they are a little more workable for a college kid. Any Ideas?
It's value as a roller is entirely dependent on the condition of the chassis and your first pic, showing it knee deep in leaves/mulch, does raise some red flags.
How closely have you examined the undercarriage?
Might as well check Craigslist too, you never know what might pop up.
The belly is actually really clean, no big booboos and free of rust. Im putting up some feeler ads to get an idea, but I'm still not sure what I'll do yet. I'm gonna start high as i'm in no rush.
Compression check results are as follows:
Rotor 1: 90psi
Rotor 2: jack diddly squat
She's dead. Im not sure what I want to do now, I cant really justify rebuilding the 13B just because its so damn expensive, and I don't think the swap is going to be able to happen at the moment. It looks like i'm going to have to sell it or trade it for something drivable. What do you guys think its worth as it sits? If possible I'd love to trade it for a NA Miata, I have always loved those and they are a little more workable for a college kid. Any Ideas?
All hope isnt lost yet man. Try squirting some MMO in the housing, turn the engine over by hand, and let it soak. You may just have stuck seals from it sitting so long. Not likely but its worth a shot. You could also use a mirror to peek inside the spark plug holes and see if you see any broken apex seals.
Right now I'm thinking that getting a new engine is my best option, I don't really want to try and rebuild this one because I'm almost certain that rotor, housing and back plates are fucked. (still need to boroscope) What do yinz think is my best option for that? Should I buy a rebuilt engine? find a used one? I'm in the Pittsburgh area, any leads would be appreciated. I'm on a pretty tight budget and I'm not looking for any kind of performance build or any special porting deal, I just want it stock and for it to drive.
I just dont have time for the swap and I'd like to save the spinny doritos cause they're cool.
Right now I'm thinking that getting a new engine is my best option, I don't really want to try and rebuild this one because I'm almost certain that rotor, housing and back plates are fucked. (still need to boroscope) What do yinz think is my best option for that? Should I buy a rebuilt engine? find a used one? I'm in the Pittsburgh area, any leads would be appreciated. I'm on a pretty tight budget and I'm not looking for any kind of performance build or any special porting deal, I just want it stock and for it to drive.
I just dont have time for the swap and I'd like to save the spinny doritos cause they're cool.
No, it really didn't.
You'd be surprised how quickly jaded one becomes when the stigma and whiff of illicit danger is removed. Hell, CO just passed public consumption laws that will allow for use in restaurants, bars, etc. I have no idea how that plays out in real life but we'll see next year.
Besides, after being able to browse from dozens of strains, all meticulously labeled and strength tested, pretty much all day every day, I kinda pity those who imbibe in non-legal states.
Yeah, I'm a snob.
Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
Cheapest option is to rebuild the core yourself.
I disagree and would assert that the cheapest option is to find a running engine to pull and swap over.
Either an accident car or one getting a drivetrain upgrade, surely such things must exist, even in Pittsburgh.
Of course, the potential monetary saving must be weighed against the probable extra time such an approach will require.
Miracles do occur but not necessarily in a convenient timeframe.
All hope isnt lost yet man. Try squirting some MMO in the housing, turn the engine over by hand, and let it soak. You may just have stuck seals from it sitting so long. Not likely but its worth a shot. You could also use a mirror to peek inside the spark plug holes and see if you see any broken apex seals.
OK, I'll try cause its cheap. (sorry, I didn't see your post)
No, it really didn't.
You'd be surprised how quickly jaded one becomes when the stigma and whiff of illicit danger is removed. Hell, CO just passed public consumption laws that will allow for use in restaurants, bars, etc. I have no idea how that plays out in real life but we'll see next year.
Besides, after being able to browse from dozens of strains, all meticulously labeled and strength tested, pretty much all day every day, I kinda pity those who imbibe in non-legal states.
Yeah, I'm a snob.
I disagree and would assert that the cheapest option is to find a running engine to pull and swap over.
Either an accident car or one getting a drivetrain upgrade, surely such things must exist, even in Pittsburgh.
Of course, the potential monetary saving must be weighed against the probable extra time such an approach will require.
Miracles do occur but not necessarily in a convenient timeframe.
OK, thats what I was thinking, I had my eye on a crunched one in an impound I could get but I'm not sure its still there. I want to do the change over my Christmas beak as I have month off, so I have a bit of time yet to locate one. Either way, she's still getting back on the road sooner or later.
I disagree and would assert that the cheapest option is to find a running engine to pull and swap over.
Either an accident car or one getting a drivetrain upgrade, surely such things must exist, even in Pittsburgh.
Of course, the potential monetary saving must be weighed against the probable extra time such an approach will require.
Miracles do occur but not necessarily in a convenient timeframe.
Originally Posted by Koenigsegg44
OK, thats what I was thinking, I had my eye on a crunched one in an impound I could get but I'm not sure its still there. I want to do the change over my Christmas beak as I have month off, so I have a bit of time yet to locate one. Either way, she's still getting back on the road sooner or later.
My apologies to Klokker if I offended him..
Your an asset to this Community..ME?..sometimes just an ***..haha!..but lovable!
Budget in mind I would go with the Used engine.If you can get the chance to hear the "new transplant" before buying that would be a bonus.
There are a lot of guys on here that swap to go turbo every day.You may even find an engine locally if you hit up the regional sections.
No offense, so no apology required although I appreciate that your Canadiousity made you offer anyway.
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
Budget in mind I would go with the Used engine.If you can get the chance to hear the "new transplant" before buying that would be a bonus.
There are a lot of guys on here that swap to go turbo every day.You may even find an engine locally if you hit up the regional sections.
Yeah, about that "everybody is going turbo, there are lots of NAs laying around" theory...
Not so much, in my experience.
A significant number of those swaps are started because the NA engine died or was maltreated into submission and the rebuild cost/performance achieved ratio sucks.
No telling what's lurking inside these candidates.
In the past six months I've sourced an engine and later, a transmission for my FC and a trans for the Z- all of those transactions happened on Craigslist and none of the people were on forums at all.
I guess most people aren't shameless narcissists, like me.
Also, just to be clear- even though I think finding a running replacement is the best bet, there are costs attached beyond the initial purchase price.
Essentially, you're betting (based on whatever info you can glean) that the engine block is serviceable but you'd be foolish to assume that all the exterior furniture is as well.
If you're going to commit to R&Ring the engine, you should immediately strip your current engine down and begin recon on the intake manifolds and all the exterior stuff. This includes sending out your injectors for servicing- don't question, just do it.
Cleaning/prepping (to whatever extent you chose) takes more time than money (although there are gaskets to consider) and more importantly, gets you familiar with a very complex area of the car...the same spot where probably 50% of forum problems lurk.
The first time you take it apart will be bewildering- after all, you have fuel, air, water, oil and electricity all doing their thing, crammed into and around big alloy castings...and most of it is absolutely hidden.
And when you think getting down to the keg to check the vacuum spider is a pain, well, you can just assume that all the previous owners thought the same and it's probably never been done.
If you're a Good Do Bee and do the advance prep now (might as well pull the whole engine which makes cleaning the bay much easier...), when you do acquire the replacement you can strip it to clean and then drop it in naked...it doesn't get much simpler than installing a bare rotary, they're so tiny.
Then you just build it, layer by layer.
When I swapped engines last July, Sigfrid and I got the old stripped keg out and the new one in in under an hour.
Working at an old man's pace, assembling all the crap on top took a few days longer but your back's tolerance for leaning over the bay will dictate that.
Working at an old man's pace, assembling all the crap on top took a few days longer but your back's tolerance for leaning over the bay will dictate that.
Yeah, i take out the radiator and **** and stand in the engine bay. forget that ****.
All hope isnt lost yet man. Try squirting some MMO in the housing, turn the engine over by hand, and let it soak. You may just have stuck seals from it sitting so long. Not likely but its worth a shot. You could also use a mirror to peek inside the spark plug holes and see if you see any broken apex seals.
The soak diddn't help, It gave me a whiff of a poof from one face on the rear rotor, but no bueno, She's still good and 'sploded.
No offense, so no apology required although I appreciate that your Canadiousity made you offer anyway.
Yeah, about that "everybody is going turbo, there are lots of NAs laying around" theory...
Not so much, in my experience.
A significant number of those swaps are started because the NA engine died or was maltreated into submission and the rebuild cost/performance achieved ratio sucks.
No telling what's lurking inside these candidates.
Ok, I put up a WTB ad to get some leads, and I havent ruled out buying a professionally rebuilt engine, as waiting awhile and scraping up the money would pay off in the long run, but I'll probably get a wsed one because I really want to get it done in that month. I'm not intimidated by the job itself, I've spent alot of time under the hood and wading through every factory maintenance pub. I could find. so I have a bit of an idea of what I'm in for, but I'm sure I'll be on here asking yinz for help.
11-05-16, 10:42 AM
