MDD0101

has anyone used por-15 paint?

i was thinking about using this .. http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1457/.f
for my UIM, LIM, and throttle body..

and i was thinking about using this.. http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1282/.f
for my housings and irons..

i noticed that the paint comes in buckets and not spray cans..how would i go about doing the painting? it looks like theres brushes in the kit..do you think you actually brush the paint on?

-TAL-

Brush or a roller yes. I know of someone who used this stuff on their subframe, he said he it didn't turn out too badly.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Foam brush the paint on - it's intended for exhaust manifolds though - which is why it withstands 1500 degrees.

I use Duplicolor High Heat Engine Paint and Clear for intake manifolds - POR 15 for the bottom of the car and wheelwells.



Oh, and High Heat Engine Paint and Clear for housings and irons too -

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I've used some POR-15 now and again...



Details here:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=468413

I've not used the Factory Manifold Gray or the engine painting kit but my previous experience with RestoMotive's products says that you won't be disappointed. I've used POR-15, POR-20, MetalReady and Hardnose Paint and always been happy with the result. One important thing is to follow the instructions to the letter. If you skip a step or make substitutions, you won't be happy with the result.

In my opinion, painting the irons with POR-15 Rust Preventative Paint is a little bit of overkill. The paint adds a lot to the dimensions of the irons (you will have several MM thick layers of paint) and the irons don't tend to rust that much anyway if they are painted (or even unpainted unless you are in a salty area).

If you get POR-15 on your skin, remove it immediately with solvent. If it dries on your skin, nothing but time (several months...) will remove it. Ask me how I know.

Edit...As for brushing or spraying...With POR-15 you will get a decent finish if you brush. The Factory Manifold Gray may show some brush marks but since you will be painting on cast you should not notice them too badly. You can thin to prevent brush marks. Keep in mind that Factory Manifold Gray is designed for high temp exhaust manifolds. It must be baked after it is applied or it will never dry. For your aluminum manifolds you might want to consider their Metal Mask which is supposed to give a finish exactly like bare metal but without the corrosion issues.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Or if you're incredibly dedicated, you can scratch it off with your fingernails, but you're removing skin when you do it.

MDD0101

so if i wanted to paint my uim, lim and throttle body to a stock looking new finish what would be my best bet?

also what would be best for my housings and irons. in the end i just want my housings to be a stock looking and new and my irons to be black..

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I suspect you will be happy with Metal Mask for the irons, and Factory Manifold Gray for the aluminum parts as long as you bake them as instructed.

Edit...Oh, black irons. Well, I just use VHT Caliper Enamel. Seems to hold up well. If you want to use something from RestoMotive, use Hardnose Paint.

MDD0101

hmm i didnt know they had to be baked.. im gonna have to scratch that.

so i guess ill go with the hard nose paint on the irons then for the black.
i think ill try the duplicolor high heat engine paint and clear on the uim, lim etc. like richter suggested... but now im rethinking what to do for the housings since i cant do the baking process.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Actually, if you want a new stock look, Duplicolor actually makes a "Cast Coat Aluminum" for the housings and "Cast Coat Iron" for the irons, that basically looks like brand new metal. Enjoy cleaning them all up for paint though - on average it took me about an hour and a half per iron in the sink, and about 30 minutes to clean the sink afterwards.

MDD0101

thats one thing im contemplating..how im gonna clean this things first. im not really able to use a sink how should i go about doing it?

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

If you have money, let someone else do the work for you. I'm a cheapskate who'd rather put the money in his car, so when I rebuilt the engine I just did an iron at a time in the kitchen sink with a toothbrush and dishsoap. I have a very understanding wife, though - your mileage may vary.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I am lucky enough to have a shop sink in the garage. Its a lifesaver because I can wash my hands before I come inside. Its a great addition to any garage.

MDD0101

all my parts only have 70k on them..so hopefully not too much cleaning will need to be done. i was thinking about hitting them with some degreaser, a wire brush/scotchbrite pads and then some soap and water. then paint.

sub9lulu

iTrader: (7)

dishwasher is your friend, really

schmol

So would the running water....I don't like the POR-15, I went with another company called KBS:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KBS-R...mZ220064587436

I think it lays on better than POR-15

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

By far, the best way of cleaning engine parts is a parts washer. Cheap and small ones are available for about $50 and it's well worth the investment. You run degreaser through the washer and it provides a constant flow through the brush you use to scrub the parts. Works wonders.

When I clean engine parts, I first run them through the parts washer and then bring them into the bathtub for a rinse and then scrub with dish soap and a stiff brush.

Then I clean all the grooves in the irons. You will dig a LOT of trash out of there.

I then clean the mating surface of the housings with 300-600 grit emry cloth used wet.

At that point, all necessary porting is done, and the iron grooves are scraped again.

Then back to the parts washer to get all the porting grit out, and into the bath tub again for a scrub with dish detergant. Rinse with warm water, and then use the air compressor to blow out all the passages.

At that point the parts are spotless so they can be wiped with solvent and then painted.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

The painters trick - substitute rubbing alcohol and distilled (or filtered, in a pinch) water, mixed 50/50 for the solvent. It's a lot cheaper.

I did all mine without a parts washer, but that would have been nice to have. Some I did in an empty cat litter box.

MDD0101

i was actually thinking about using something like a cat litter box ..just a deep tray that would fit the parts

i actually bought the duplicolor primer, paint and clear and started on my uim. im wondering if i should even use the clear tho...how does the clear make it look richter?

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1452/.f
1400 F ??
whish it was just a little higher...id paint my exhaust mani !

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I've used POR-20 to paint downpipes before and it's held up. I'm also painting my exhaust manifold with it.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

It adds just a little bit of shine to it, but mostly it protects the paint, so that if you get oil or something on it, you have a little extra protection before it lifts the paint.

Cat Litter boxes work well, except for two things to watch out for:

If the iron or housing falls over, the front of the litter box will catch it, then bring the rest of the litter box with it. The iron is pretty much undamaged, but if it falls toward you, it makes a pretty impressive water catapult.

Also, if you're working on the floor of your garage with your back to the litter box, and you start scooting around, make sure that you don't sit on the edge of the litter box. It does that same cool catapult thing. I only wish it had been water that time and not ATF. What a mess!

UmmYeahOk

Yeah... ...thats gonna be a really big "no no" on that one. This first engine rebuild I let Richter do, I let him put one iron in... ...ONE. Got it clean, but the dish washer will never been the same again... ...and we spent a good hour cleaning it too. Cleaning a sink is much faster.