mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

So I bought a Paxton, 'full kit' spent 2250 on it, still wasn't 100% though, I probably spent around 500 to 1k more on misc parts here and there, most of which I didn't need or screwed up or they wouldn't work or fit right.. for instance I bought a $60 rad hose that is now laying in my garage in a box b/c the spacing between the s/c and the neck wouldn't allow for fitment...

Anyway after a few weeks, a fresh rebuild on the Paxton, a few thousand dollars I have a damn Airplane...

At least that is what my friend said when I pulled up to his place.. he was standing outside and thought a plane was landing, I saw him and revved up a few times letting the BOV open... sounds good

So here are some pics...









So I wanted to keep the engine bay looking pretty stock, So I left the stock air box and stuff. I have a Turbo XS BOV, Coolingmist basic WI kit, the RED and GREEN lights I put in as status lights, the low fluid will be hooked up to red light (on order) the green light comes on when it starts to boost, around 1PSI I think is where it comes on at, I have only got up to about 5PSI so far but I have not driven that much...

It is fun as hell, but not as fun as the FD, but of course its not... Its still an FC lol

I had the blower, elbow and TB horn polished during the rebuild, not a bad price 130 for that, although the rebuild cost me a **** load, 250 labor 450 basic rebuild and another 75 bucks for an output shaft. the Cooling mist was 200 and the other parts like I said who knows, I spent a **** load, 500 to 1000, every time I go to the parts store I spend at least 50 bucks on **** that I don't even know why I buy... but whatever...

well enjoy

And NO I have not and do not plan on the DynoJet... I don't care about the HP stock 146 this kit makes claims at 216 and with the WI kit that may be higher... who knows. If I do keep the car I may do the dyno, but as of now, not gonna do it

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

Definitely looks good! I'm hoping to do a supercharge build eventually and I definitely think this is the kit I would go for. Would love to see the dyno numbers if you do that. I would remove the stock airbox though with that rad cover because theres no air coming from the air dam now that ran up to the stock intake.

MDD0101

have you noticed any difference while running that rad. cooling panel with the stock intake like that...i just recently did the same thing and i cant tell if the engine isnt getting as much air as it could be

rx7_FREAKKK

iTrader: (1)

What kind of power you think you will be making?
Did you do the accelerometer test. let us know the power its making

Gregory Casimir

iTrader: (8)

diffinitely gotta see the numbers on this! Looks really nice

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

It gets plenty of air, the CF hood doesn't have the rubber seal like the stock hood, gets all it wants that way, also the panel has enough holes to allow air to come up

didn't really notice any dif with the panel, it does look nicer though, although with the CF vented hood I went from 1/2 on the gauge to around 1/4

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

picture of said hood and whole car? looks like a sweet setup to me man, seems like it fits in there pretty good. So between the cooling mist and low psi you have decided not to use intercooling? I would be interested to see what power it makes and what your tune looks like. What are you using for EMS? Keep up the good work.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

your air intake snorkel is not getting any air with the corksport piece in there.

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Nice...hmmm I need more power

rx-711

iTrader: (2)

post a vid so we can hear this thing

DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

i second rx-711's request, vid so we can hear your airplane.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

pics of the hood, and get a cone filter.

nice work

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

there are a bunch of pics in my gallery but here are the ones you requested...

here is the engine bay pre charger, going to sell the strut brace and maybe the FD alt with pully and pigtail BTW...



and the hood



as far as intercooling, well the injection is it.. there is NO room for any kind of IC, the elbow is like 5" by 9" and BARLEY fits, such tight clearances here... I was going to go with Water / Air since it has the lowest PSI loss and it can be installed in a tight place but they didn't even have one of those that was small enough, I can still pack the 1gal water tank with ICE if needed so that is a plus, also I think the trunk was key to that tank to keep the water temps down, that bay is flippin HOT

as far as the cone filter my thought is NO... I say this because IMHO all you do is suck in hot engine bay air.. so in turn its a HOT air intake... the coldest air is going to come from the front of the car.. and again NO room to run any kind of tube up front... except snorkel and the air pump filter I had to go with, HOT AS HELL to the touch so I am sure its getting hot air, but I don't care cause all it is doing is pushing fresh air into the cats...

The panel helps the majority of the air flow through the radiator, assisting in cooling and allowing the fan so suck from there vice everywhere else
now it is running hotter with the S/C but its now running on compressed air IE hotter air IE hotter IAT's and hotter EGT's and hotter Water.... the only way to get around this is have the thing start pumping water ASAP hence the super low turn on point (around 1 to 2 PSI ) (the WI that is)


and for EMS... stock... this kit produced by Paxton / Nelson back in the day was designed to bolt on to a stock engine with stock EMS and everything, the only upgrade it REQUIRES is a FPR, I am using a Vortech FPR that works off boost pressure, not sure the rating but the guy I got it from thought it was 8:1 which is overkill but the more fuel the less chance of detonation
This thing hooks up after stock FPR in between engine and fuel return line, as boost increases by 1PSI it increases fuel pressure 8 PSI ( ie the 8:1 ) so at 5 PSI I am running an additional 40PSI FP not sure what that equates to for gas mileage we will see, also I am keeping out of it for now, I had filled up with 87 before the upgrade and only was able to squeeze about 3 gallons of 91 in it when I was done and don't have many miles on it yet

I will take my camera to work with me in the morning to shoot a vid, may have to let someone drive it or record me we will see...


also for anyone interested this is a bad *** kit for a N/A IMO.. there is one for sale in 2nd gen section for a hell of a price..

maac0953

so why did you choose to boost your car with a supercharger and not a turbo?

i think boost lag is fun cause its a suprise when it kicks in.

i have a 87TII by tha way!


you have a really nice car man and good job

hutch311

Would Love to see Video of this beast!

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

I went with S/C just cause it is different.. and I love the sound of it the whine it makes even at lower RPM's it's amazing

It is super smooth accell too, I replaced my front 6port actuator when I did this b/c it was sticking, this is smoother than the FD as far as the RPM range, not faster just smoother

and at 45 MPH if I drop into 2nd and just coast to a stop.. WOOO that is cool

now of course I didn't know most of this b4 the purchase, the main Idea was just to be different, also I got the car from my father in law who bought it brand new 22 years ago, and he was thinking of the same kit but the cost then was insane!! I think like 14K or something he was quoted maaaaan F that LOL

maac0953

it does sound fun!!!!!! what size exhaust do you have? i hope you have 3inch all da way back.

do you still have the stock fuel pump and injectors??
and you think 8:1 is over kill for a FMU? i thought 12:1 is normal.hahaa

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

maacO, yea the FPR is overkill like me and the PO talked about but he just THINKS its 8:1, just to help prevent detonation or knock or preignition, whatever you want to call it
and yes stock injectors and pump

like I said the FPR is the only fuel upgrade needed, others are recommended, if I went with 3" I would have to do something for the 5,6 ports, with the forced air it won't allow them to open, causing less power instead of more... sucks I know, but whatever LOL

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

There's no way you could be running an FPR that scales pressure 8 psi for every 1 lb. of boost. That'd be ~83 psi working pressure at 5 lbs. of boost, and that's not even counting the 10-15 psi pressure drop from the pump to the rails. The stock NA pump basically has no flow at all beyond about 55-60 psi, as it was never meant to be used in a forced induction application. There's great post with flow charts for the stock FC pumps and more here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/measured-flow-stock-tii-pump-524944/.

Also, do you have a wideband in the car? I'd be really cautious using stock injectors and the stock fuel pump with the fuel pressure jacked up. There are few supercharger kits that float around from member to member blowing engines, since fuel upgrades and tuning are rarely done. A wideband, a TII pump and an SAFC would go a long way towards making sure the setup is actually safe.

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

well I am being proactive with it, the Injection and the FPR (whatever the ratio is) will allow for cooler IAT's and more fuel to HELP prevent knock

now I know that all these upgrades are recommended, but do these other guys upgrade other ****, like catbacks, downpipes, no emissions, etc etc the list can go on forever

the kit was DESIGNED to be put on a STOCK car the way I have it, the only thing that I have done is proactive

the Water injection is Proactive, helps to reduce stock IAT's

the S/C Oil Cooler although not that effective (damn thing is hot as hell to the touch) still proactive, can't imagine the temp of that thing with no cooler

I am also thinking of another sprayer that just sprays the outside of the s/c and elbow, I poured some water on it and it cooled off ALOT, its aluminum so transfers heat quite well...

and yea yea yea MR SCIENCE GUY I know that dumping water on it isn't the BEST way to do it but like I said I poured water on it and it cooled it off so it can't hurt...

so yea a bunch of guys have destroyed engines but for instance the PO of this kit ran a smaller pulley and said he hit 12PSI (roughly) and blew an APEX..

so keeping the stock pulley size, stock kit and stock car, I should not have any problems (I hope)

Now I am sure that the EMS and Tune wouldn't hurt but for my setup I don't believe they are necessary

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

There's a write up here w/ a guy running a paxton with TII injectors and a walbro fuel pump: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/fc-supercharger-write-up-711116/. There's another post by him later on saying the engine blew (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/blown-apex-seal-755424/).

Another point brought up in the thread is that the stock pulley is supposed to overspin the SC at 5,800 rpm, so a larger pulley was made available. The PO may have fixed this before you got it though.

Also, just because a company designs a kit, doesn't mean they guarantee in any way that it won't blow your engine. The severe lack of flow that the NA pump has over stock fuel pressures means you're probably getting bad lean conditions under boost. I'd imagine that your WI is keeping the engine alive, but if it runs out of water one day, you're in trouble. At the very least, buy a TII pump for like $10 and use it instead. It won't make idle and low throttle overly rich, and it will flow much better at higher pressures.

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

Yea the Fuel pump probably isn't that bad of an idea.. I was considering doing this, didn't realize they were that cheap LOL, I also need a sender anyway so I could kill 2 with 1...

and yes you are right about the pulley, it has the upgraded one well I think, havn't measured it but it is brand new, just bought it with the kit (PO ordered and sent direct to me)


Edit:

ROFL, that is the kit I have, not like the same kit but like the exact kit I bought

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

You could get an FD pump too for like $40 shipped. Also to get air into the filter you could run an aftermarket filter, remove your windshield washer reservoir, cut the hole bigger and run a 3" duct from above the stock brake duct. You should also switch to BUR9EQs in the leadings to help prevent detonation.

I'm surprised the setup is run on the stock ECU though, very interesting.

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

BUR9EQs are cooler or trailing?

mike_merryguy

iTrader: (8)

oh and RR the blowers Redline is 3800 not 5800 (in case anyone was wondering)

there is an equation that I don't know off the top of my head, but it deals with Main Pulley size blower pulley size and engine RPM = Blower RPM