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s4 n/a, and i can swear i see the AWS feed tube disconnected, which if it is would be a main reason why it isn't getting fuel to run. all your intake components need to be connected and secure.
I've just spent the last twenty minutes in the service manual, but I can't find out where the AWS is supposed to be. I gather it should be around the throttle body?
Thanks for the assistance everyone, its much appreciated.
s4 n/a, and i can swear i see the AWS feed tube disconnected, which if it is would be a main reason why it isn't getting fuel to run. all your intake components need to be connected and secure.
Originally Posted by theDevilX
I've just spent the last twenty minutes in the service manual, but I can't find out where the AWS is supposed to be. I gather it should be around the throttle body?
Thanks for the assistance everyone, its much appreciated.
I Agree, I can't see what you mean RE, you gotta point it out with your superman vision
Ok well its driving rain outside and 2 degrees (c) to boot so I probably won't be getting too stuck in today.
I did have a poke around for the ECU, but i'm not sure if it will be driver or passenger side (as this is a RHD model) and didn't fancy pulling the carpets with sleet blowing into the car!
The fusebox is on the driver side and a bugger to get to unless you're a midget.
As for the engine, there's a few things been disconnected by a PO, however the last time this thing was on the road was 2002 so even if I did have his number I doubt he could shed any light.
Ok so if look at the following annotated photo, I've circled what I can spot that's wrong:
Ok so 1 is a missing solenoid, the switching solenoid according to the FSM.
2 is the vacuum hose attachment where the solenoid would be, its not blanked off.
3 looks like the arrow is pointing to the wire to the alternator but its not. The pipe under the red circle goes in the direction of the arrow, but doesn't connect to anything.
And 4, there's been a connection removed from here and blanked off.
Edit:
Some better photos:
I'm happy to blank all this stuff off, but it'd be nice to work out what it does!
the AWS and BAC have a large feed tube that runs across the top backside of the throttle body and then to a rubber hose that feeds into the intake elbow just before the throttle body on the underside. it looked to me in the picture before my last post that the hose wasn't connected to the intake piping.
the AWS and BAC have a large feed tube that runs across the top backside of the throttle body and then to a rubber hose that feeds into the intake elbow just before the throttle body on the underside. it looked to me in the picture before my last post that the hose wasn't connected to the intake piping.
the long disconnected hose is a crankcase vapor hose, wouldn't really cause any of your issue aside from possibly letting gas vapors into the engine bay and dirt into the crankcase.
the long disconnected hose is a crankcase vapor hose, wouldn't really cause any of your issue aside from possibly letting gas vapors into the engine bay and dirt into the crankcase.
Thanks.
Well I'll have to bite the bullet and get to those ECU connectors, tomorrow is supposed to be dry and a little warmer so I'll have a crack.
Just a general note: your European spec NA FC has a few differences from the US version, so you may have to filter our suggestions and confirm they are applicable for your car.
In particular, your engine has a a distributor ignition system. The US version has a crank angle sensor that sends signal for both spark and fuel.
I'm not sure where your ECU's injector signal comes from. Is there a plug that comes off your distributor?
Originally Posted by theDevilX
Well I'll have to bite the bullet and get to those ECU connectors, tomorrow is supposed to be dry and a little warmer so I'll have a crack.
Before you get at the ECU, go over the wiring harness grounds. Take a look at Aaroncake's website Proper RX-7 Grounding Procedures and make sure all the grounds are connected.
Just a general note: your European spec NA FC has a few differences from the US version, so you may have to filter our suggestions and confirm they are applicable for your car.
In particular, your engine has a a distributor ignition system. The US version has a crank angle sensor that sends signal for both spark and fuel.
I'm not sure where your ECU's injector signal comes from. Is there a plug that comes off your distributor?
Before you get at the ECU, go over the wiring harness grounds. Take a look at Aaroncake's website Proper RX-7 Grounding Procedures and make sure all the grounds are connected.
I'm pretty sure all UK FCs came with distributorless ignition, my car has the coils and crank angle sensor. Plus I scour ebay for parts quite regularly and I've never seen a distributor up for sale.
But yeah, its kind of hard, there is next to no information on the UK vs US models online, I think it was a lot more a popular car with you guys.
I'm pretty sure all UK FCs came with distributorless ignition, my car has the coils and crank angle sensor. Plus I scour ebay for parts quite regularly and I've never seen a distributor up for sale.
But yeah, its kind of hard, there is next to no information on the UK vs US models online, I think it was a lot more a popular car with you guys.
I'll go over the grounds tomorrow.
Are the engine bay pictures you put from your actual car?
I think the one in the photo is a combo distributor and CAS. Either way, that CAS has an octopus on top, where ours has none. As long as you have a plug there going to the ECU, you should be good.
Actually, the quicker (and less frostbitey) check is to remove the CAS and spin it with the key turned to 'on'. Listen for the injectors to click.
The missing solenoid is probably the one for EGR valve. Non-us cars didn't get it as far as I know.
You also mentioned the gas tank was dirty. The gunk may have gotten to the injectors and physically blocked them.
Are the engine bay pictures you put from your actual car?
I think the one in the photo is a combo distributor and CAS. Either way, that CAS has an octopus on top, where ours has none. As long as you have a plug there going to the ECU, you should be good.
Actually, the quicker (and less frostbitey) check is to remove the CAS and spin it with the key turned to 'on'. Listen for the injectors to click.
The missing solenoid is probably the one for EGR valve. Non-us cars didn't get it as far as I know.
You also mentioned the gas tank was dirty. The gunk may have gotten to the injectors and physically blocked them.
Hmm that's a valid point.
I'll investigate tomorrow.
As for the injectors being clogged, I guess its possible, although the fuel pump didn't work at all when I bought the car and all the crud was from the tank rusting away so I imagine that happened because the car was left 15 years with nearly empty tank to fill with condensation.
Tomorow I go back offshore for 3 weeks so that car will be going back undercover. But when I return I'll have the upper manifold off and send the injectors for cleaning.
Hopefully they won't be too bad, there was fuel in the lines so hopefully it kept the corrosion at bay.
At the same time I can check the wiring on the injectors whilst its accessible.
Just for anyone who's interested. (Because I can't stand not knowing what fixed the problem when I'm reading threads!) Big thanks to everyone who chipped in too help.
I took the injectors to be cleaned, all 4 were completely seized, as in no operation at all. The guy put them through the ultrasonic bath several times and got them back into good working order with new filter baskets, seals and pintle caps.
Fitted them to the engine, bridged the check connector so prime the rails with fuel.
Started on the first turn of the key
It won't idle, and is running pretty rough, though I hope that's down to vacuum leaks / ancillary bits rather than the engine itself but its a start.
There's definitely an exhaust leak from around the manifold area, and I didn't have the airbox connected to the throttle body so I don't think that would help.
Video here, so if anyone with a 'trained ear' could tell me if they think anything else is majorly wrong that would be good to know before I pull the engine. Thanks
Video <- Most of the smoke is steam from some coolant I spilt on the manifold whilst topping up.
sounds like you have a few vacuum leaks and it is starving for fuel, but at least you are getting somewhere.
having a helper try to keep the car running while you spray around the intake would definitely be helpful. if your car has a variable resistor, popping out the anti tamper plug and turning it to full rich would probably eliminate the need for a helper, it would also reinforce the idea of vacuum leaks if it then idles.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 02-16-17 at 08:42 PM.
sounds like you have a few vacuum leaks and it is starving for fuel, but at least you are getting somewhere.
having a helper try to keep the car running while you spray around the intake would definitely be helpful. if your car has a variable resistor, popping out the anti tamper plug and turning it to full rich would probably eliminate the need for a helper, it would also reinforce the idea of vacuum leaks if it then idles.
Oh there's definitely a few vacuum leaks, there are hoses completely missing that I need to puzzle out what they're for!
I'm going to pull the engine though, I just wanted to confirm that it would run and I could avoid a full rebuild for the moment
Honestly under there its a big mess, a lot of the hoses look perished and brittle, the last thing I need is a fuel leak, so I'm going to pull the lot clean and repaint, change all hoses etc.
if you know nothing about the engine, and are going through the hassle of pulling it out've the car, you may as well tear it down to at least SEE if its been rebuilt. If you only need soft seal parts you can take it apart and back together for under $300
if you know nothing about the engine, and are going through the hassle of pulling it out've the car, you may as well tear it down to at least SEE if its been rebuilt. If you only need soft seal parts you can take it apart and back together for under $300
I wasn't aware that it was possible to re-use the parts once disassembled. If that's the case I'll definitely strip it down. It would give me some peace of mind.
you should be prepared for more than just that, if say you wind up with 3 piece apex seals in your hand i wouldn't recommend putting them back in.
That was the main part of the reason i mentioned it, the OEM apex seals, you don't know if they are 3 piece or 2 piece until you open it. If they are 2 piece, then you know its been rebuilt recently and can just order a gasket kit and put it back together
Just double check all the tolerances and make sure they are in spec too, this way, you KNOW what the engine is internally, not just guessing
01-06-17, 05:32 AM
