Car won't start after oil change.
09-22-12, 02:18 PM
#1
Car won't start after oil change.
Just changed my oil. I don't see how I did anything wrong. Lifted car, put jack stands, removed oil, put bolt back on. Removed filter, put new filter and then filled the car with 10w30 and it won't start. Doesn't even sound like it wants to fire up. When removing the oil filter, could oil have leaked onto some wires and fucked something up?
I need this fixed, it's my only means of transportation to college and work. :/
Thanks.
Just an FYI car started fine before the oil change since I had to back my car beforehand.
I need this fixed, it's my only means of transportation to college and work. :/
Thanks.
Just an FYI car started fine before the oil change since I had to back my car beforehand.
09-22-12, 02:31 PM
#3
No I haven't. But why would the car be flooded after a simple oil change? I know there's a million threads but I'm so stressed right now. Could you link me to one?
What a great way to spend my 20th birthday! Having my rx7 which has had 0 problems **** up because of a simple oil change.
Here's what's happening.
What a great way to spend my 20th birthday! Having my rx7 which has had 0 problems **** up because of a simple oil change.
Here's what's happening.
Last edited by ryan2949; 09-22-12 at 02:46 PM.
09-22-12, 04:09 PM
#6
It's a brand new battery. It's always at 14 volts. I didn't undo/unscrew anything while underneath the car. I jacked it up properly, drained the oil, screwed the bolt back on, removed oil filter(oil leaked a bit), put new filter and then filled the oil back up. Went to start car and that just keeps happening. But right now it says the battery is at 12V.
Last edited by ryan2949; 09-22-12 at 04:14 PM.
09-22-12, 04:14 PM
#7
At first it sounded like it wanted to fire up, but then after that it just sounds like I'm burning the starter motor.
I tried to start the car as soon as I changed the oil. Then decided to check how much oil I removed and turns out I removed 4L but put in 5L. So I obviously had a litre too much. I then jacked the car back up and removed that extra litre. It's now at the right level. Could this have caused my problem?
I tried to start the car as soon as I changed the oil. Then decided to check how much oil I removed and turns out I removed 4L but put in 5L. So I obviously had a litre too much. I then jacked the car back up and removed that extra litre. It's now at the right level. Could this have caused my problem?
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09-22-12, 04:27 PM
#8
No, too much oil wouldn't do that. Try de-flooding it:
You appear to have an s5 so you should just be able to floor it while cranking and that should clear a flood. For a particularly nasty flood you may want to pull the EGI fuse from the main fuse box in the engine bay, crank her over for a 5 or 6 seconds, replace the fuse and try to start it. For a REALLY nasty flood you should pull the leading spark plugs and let them dry, pull the EGI fuse and crank her over for 5 or 6 seconds, replace the plugs, and try to start it. For a MONSTER NASTY DIRTY flood, pull the fuse, the leading plugs and put a little bit of two stroke oil in the holes, then crank her over a bit, replace everything and start.
It's hard to tell from the video, but regardless you always check for 4 things:
Air
Fuel
Spark
Compression
Air- Is the AFM wired up correctly? No big vac leaks?
Fuel- Are the injectors pulsing? Are you getting fuel pressure? With key to 'on' you can jumper the fuel check connector and you should hear the fuel pump running. It's a yellow, two pin connector hanging out by itself near the passenger shock tower.
Spark- Pull the leading plugs out of the engine and crank it over. Hold a plug to something metal and see if there is a spark. If you feel a little dangerous use your tongue.
Compression- I doubt a car that was running fine one minute would lose compression from changing the oil; but.... that is the way these things go sometimes. Fine one minute, then busted seal the next out of thin air. Flooding will kill compression as well, but get a compression tester and check it out.
You appear to have an s5 so you should just be able to floor it while cranking and that should clear a flood. For a particularly nasty flood you may want to pull the EGI fuse from the main fuse box in the engine bay, crank her over for a 5 or 6 seconds, replace the fuse and try to start it. For a REALLY nasty flood you should pull the leading spark plugs and let them dry, pull the EGI fuse and crank her over for 5 or 6 seconds, replace the plugs, and try to start it. For a MONSTER NASTY DIRTY flood, pull the fuse, the leading plugs and put a little bit of two stroke oil in the holes, then crank her over a bit, replace everything and start.
It's hard to tell from the video, but regardless you always check for 4 things:
Air
Fuel
Spark
Compression
Air- Is the AFM wired up correctly? No big vac leaks?
Fuel- Are the injectors pulsing? Are you getting fuel pressure? With key to 'on' you can jumper the fuel check connector and you should hear the fuel pump running. It's a yellow, two pin connector hanging out by itself near the passenger shock tower.
Spark- Pull the leading plugs out of the engine and crank it over. Hold a plug to something metal and see if there is a spark. If you feel a little dangerous use your tongue.
Compression- I doubt a car that was running fine one minute would lose compression from changing the oil; but.... that is the way these things go sometimes. Fine one minute, then busted seal the next out of thin air. Flooding will kill compression as well, but get a compression tester and check it out.
09-22-12, 04:50 PM
#10
No, too much oil wouldn't do that. Try de-flooding it:
You appear to have an s5 so you should just be able to floor it while cranking and that should clear a flood. For a particularly nasty flood you may want to pull the EGI fuse from the main fuse box in the engine bay, crank her over for a 5 or 6 seconds, replace the fuse and try to start it. For a REALLY nasty flood you should pull the leading spark plugs and let them dry, pull the EGI fuse and crank her over for 5 or 6 seconds, replace the plugs, and try to start it. For a MONSTER NASTY DIRTY flood, pull the fuse, the leading plugs and put a little bit of two stroke oil in the holes, then crank her over a bit, replace everything and start.
It's hard to tell from the video, but regardless you always check for 4 things:
Air
Fuel
Spark
Compression
Air- Is the AFM wired up correctly? No big vac leaks?
Fuel- Are the injectors pulsing? Are you getting fuel pressure? With key to 'on' you can jumper the fuel check connector and you should hear the fuel pump running. It's a yellow, two pin connector hanging out by itself near the passenger shock tower.
Spark- Pull the leading plugs out of the engine and crank it over. Hold a plug to something metal and see if there is a spark. If you feel a little dangerous use your tongue.
Compression- I doubt a car that was running fine one minute would lose compression from changing the oil; but.... that is the way these things go sometimes. Fine one minute, then busted seal the next out of thin air. Flooding will kill compression as well, but get a compression tester and check it out.
You appear to have an s5 so you should just be able to floor it while cranking and that should clear a flood. For a particularly nasty flood you may want to pull the EGI fuse from the main fuse box in the engine bay, crank her over for a 5 or 6 seconds, replace the fuse and try to start it. For a REALLY nasty flood you should pull the leading spark plugs and let them dry, pull the EGI fuse and crank her over for 5 or 6 seconds, replace the plugs, and try to start it. For a MONSTER NASTY DIRTY flood, pull the fuse, the leading plugs and put a little bit of two stroke oil in the holes, then crank her over a bit, replace everything and start.
It's hard to tell from the video, but regardless you always check for 4 things:
Air
Fuel
Spark
Compression
Air- Is the AFM wired up correctly? No big vac leaks?
Fuel- Are the injectors pulsing? Are you getting fuel pressure? With key to 'on' you can jumper the fuel check connector and you should hear the fuel pump running. It's a yellow, two pin connector hanging out by itself near the passenger shock tower.
Spark- Pull the leading plugs out of the engine and crank it over. Hold a plug to something metal and see if there is a spark. If you feel a little dangerous use your tongue.
Compression- I doubt a car that was running fine one minute would lose compression from changing the oil; but.... that is the way these things go sometimes. Fine one minute, then busted seal the next out of thin air. Flooding will kill compression as well, but get a compression tester and check it out.
I am waiting on Paypal to get new spark plgus and wires since they were part of my big "replace all fluids and filters/plugs" maintenance thing I wanted to complete. I'm clearly unable to do something as simple as change oil so I'm pretty much useless when it comes to cars.
09-22-12, 05:05 PM
#11
Well we all start somewhere, just do some research and don't be afraid to grab a wrench. They are just nuts and bolts after all.... Get a Factory Service Manual and start reading.
The EGI fuse is going to be a pink fuse in the main fuse box, which will be right in front of the driver side shock tower. I haven't had an s5 in a while, I think the fuse is the farthest one from the cabin. It will be pink. If you still have the black cover on the fuse box it will be labeled EGI.
Try that first.
The AFM is located by the air intake. If your car is stock, it's a large silver box under the air filter with one wide plug leading to it.
The fuel check connector is a small, yellow, two wire connector that isn't connected to anything that sits there next to the passenger side shock tower. If you have the key to 'on' and jumper the connector (get a small piece of wire and connect the stripped ends, one each, into the connectors holes.) you should hear the fuel pump running.
The EGI fuse is going to be a pink fuse in the main fuse box, which will be right in front of the driver side shock tower. I haven't had an s5 in a while, I think the fuse is the farthest one from the cabin. It will be pink. If you still have the black cover on the fuse box it will be labeled EGI.
Try that first.
The AFM is located by the air intake. If your car is stock, it's a large silver box under the air filter with one wide plug leading to it.
The fuel check connector is a small, yellow, two wire connector that isn't connected to anything that sits there next to the passenger side shock tower. If you have the key to 'on' and jumper the connector (get a small piece of wire and connect the stripped ends, one each, into the connectors holes.) you should hear the fuel pump running.
09-22-12, 05:11 PM
#12
your issue is unrelated to the oil change but it is just the engine trying to tell you something.
your apex seals are carbon locked from mileage, i can hear a severe lack of compression when you are trying to turn the engine over. when a rotary engine spins freely you can tell it's not making compression because the carbon has had time to sit, dry out and stick the seals.
pick up an oil squirt can and a bottle of MMO, inject a few ounces into the capped ports on the passenger side of the UIM near the secondary injectors, crank the engine for a few seconds then let it sit for a few hours then attempt to start it. repeat as necessary until the engine sounds like it is giving some strong pulses each time the engine rotates and hopefully it eventually starts, it will smoke though for about 15 minutes!
once you get it running look up "engine decarb" or "water treatment" in a search. you can also run premix as a preventative to keep the carbon from solidifying in the rotors to stick the seals.
your apex seals are carbon locked from mileage, i can hear a severe lack of compression when you are trying to turn the engine over. when a rotary engine spins freely you can tell it's not making compression because the carbon has had time to sit, dry out and stick the seals.
pick up an oil squirt can and a bottle of MMO, inject a few ounces into the capped ports on the passenger side of the UIM near the secondary injectors, crank the engine for a few seconds then let it sit for a few hours then attempt to start it. repeat as necessary until the engine sounds like it is giving some strong pulses each time the engine rotates and hopefully it eventually starts, it will smoke though for about 15 minutes!
once you get it running look up "engine decarb" or "water treatment" in a search. you can also run premix as a preventative to keep the carbon from solidifying in the rotors to stick the seals.
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Westcoast FC (05-07-21)
09-22-12, 05:13 PM
#13
Did you start the car up and quickly move it to a position to work on the car (as in change the oil)? If so, then the engine can be flooded. The RX-7 engine does not like being started up and turned off before the engine is fully warmed up and doing so risks the chance of flooding.
09-22-12, 05:15 PM
#14
i do believe those short starts do promote the stuck seal condition as well since the cold engine won't vaporize the fuel in the engine which can get into the seal channels and wash out any lubrication that is keeping the seals moving freely.
deflooding procedures will help as the intent is to get all fuel out of the engine from cranking and try to give the engine a lean enough condition that it can ignite
i've never noticed the condition of stuck seals occur on premixed vehicles, though i'm sure it is still possible but less likely.
deflooding procedures will help as the intent is to get all fuel out of the engine from cranking and try to give the engine a lean enough condition that it can ignite
i've never noticed the condition of stuck seals occur on premixed vehicles, though i'm sure it is still possible but less likely.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-22-12 at 05:18 PM.
09-22-12, 05:39 PM
#15
I've moved my car like that before. I started it, then let it run for about 3 minutes before turning it off. It wasn't fully warmed up, but this isn't the first time I've done this. I've never had this issue before.
Tomorrow I'll check the four things texFC has mentioned and if that doesn't work. Also, how would they be carbonlocked? I drive my car every single day and have never had issues like this before. I've done 4,000kms since July and my car only has 99,000kms.
I do think it's just flooded because when I was about to shut the car off I did remember that they flood, but figured it's never happened before. So I'm sure that's what it could be. I'll report back tomorrow and hopefully have it fixed:/ Will most likely sell the RX7 for a Miata sooner than I thought.
Tomorrow I'll check the four things texFC has mentioned and if that doesn't work. Also, how would they be carbonlocked? I drive my car every single day and have never had issues like this before. I've done 4,000kms since July and my car only has 99,000kms.
I do think it's just flooded because when I was about to shut the car off I did remember that they flood, but figured it's never happened before. So I'm sure that's what it could be. I'll report back tomorrow and hopefully have it fixed:/ Will most likely sell the RX7 for a Miata sooner than I thought.
Last edited by ryan2949; 09-22-12 at 05:46 PM.
09-22-12, 06:55 PM
#18
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I may have some new plugs kickin around too Ryan.I get sets and don't use the BUR7's..so I should have at least a new set of leading plugs.
09-22-12, 07:00 PM
#19
I'm picking up 7's and 9's AND NGK wires for 63 bucks shipped, brand new. None of the shops around here carry these plugs, so I don't want to pick up 7's and be stuck trying to buy only 9's. Where do you guys usually get your plugs and wires?
09-23-12, 04:19 AM
#20
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Maybe put the Old oil back in. And then see if it starts. It could just be the car hates you or the oil you gave her. Maybe she needs to be taken out to a drive in?
09-23-12, 04:55 AM
#22
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When I orignally put the turbo kit on my car it wouldn't start. After checking over absolutely everything I had installed it turned out to be fouled plugs. It drove there fine and had no issues at all prior too the install.
09-23-12, 11:04 AM
#23
Unfortunately I don't have time to wait for new plugs. I'll end up missing days if not weeks of school and work over this. I need it fixed ASAP and I don't think I could just go to some dealer or mechanic and say "Hey, my car is flooded, fix it" I don't trust most mechanics, especially with a rotary.
09-23-12, 11:21 AM
#24
Well you could try pulling the plugs yourself, getting some carb cleaner and spraying them real good, letting them dry and then.... pull the EGI fuse.... crank it over.... put the plugs back....put the fuse back....try to start it.
That may help you ASAP. Then when the new plugs come in you can swap them in.
That may help you ASAP. Then when the new plugs come in you can swap them in.
09-23-12, 11:23 AM
#25
Well you could try pulling the plugs yourself, getting some carb cleaner and spraying them real good, letting them dry and then.... pull the EGI fuse.... crank it over.... put the plugs back....put the fuse back....try to start it.
That may help you ASAP. Then when the new plugs come in you can swap them in.
That may help you ASAP. Then when the new plugs come in you can swap them in.