Danny 171

Hey guys!

So, first of all, please don't laugh at me. I have an 87 GXL with a T2 swap waiting to be rebuilt sitting in my garage and would love to get it to around 300hp. The car is stock besides a Racing Beat turbo back exhaust. I would love to bridgeport it but what else would I need to support that. Is a standalone a necessity? I know I sound like an idiot so any help would be very much appreciated

Thank you,
Danny

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

1:money
2: tools
3: a couple nights reading the tons of threads that ask the same question.(seriously,not to offend, I had an N/a..started reading..now I got a 400 hp TII swap.)

4: a Big Honkin' Bud for later when you have successfully started up your rebuild..(optional!)

Evil Aviator

LOL, sorry, but I must laugh because your question is legitimate, common, and not even remotely close to the stupid questions that we sometimes get on this forum.

A bridgeport 13B engine can almost make 300hp with no turbo, so it would be overkill for your project. I would recommend street porting, if anything.

You will also need an upgraded fuel pump and fuel injectors, as well as a boost gauge if your 'T2 conversion' does not include one. An Aeromotive or SX fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge would be a good idea, but not required. An upgraded radiator may be required if you don't already have one.

See here for low-budget turbo rebuilding and upgrades:
BNR Supercars - Bryan Nickell's Rotary Supercars - Mazda RX-7 2nd Generation (1987-1991)

Hopefully somebody else can chime-in if I forgot something.

No, you can use the less-expensive Rtek 1.8 chip and four 720cc fuel injectors.

Rtek Website:
Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information

Rtek Sub-forum:
Rtek Forum - RX7Club.com

No offense, but you suck at sounding like an idiot. Maybe you could try making another forum thread asking how to make 1,200hp with a screwdriver and a $5 budget, or maybe asking how to make Honda engine pistons work in your 13B engine?

I think he is close enough to Missouri to get some real beer, such as Schlafly, 2nd Shift, Perennial, Cathedral Square, Boulevard, 4Hands, Urban Chestnut, etc.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Evil,
If he Does "#4" first..there is a good chance he will forget about this problem..

As mentioned though an Rtek is cheap.(some guy doing 400 on the Rtek.)
A nice little Ecu is also the Haltech Sprint RE.They still have the old E6K's and E6X's around but they are almost ancient technology,but still effective and can be purchased cheaply used.

If you cruise through the build threads,Single turbo section,AI section..stuff like that,you will find a vast treasure trove of info that will make your mind spin.(without #4...lol!).
I started in 2005 with a beat up POS and now..holy crap..I got a POS that will kick ***..!
I have to give credit to all the Members who posted their info,as all those threads that I read helped me create what I am driving today.A monster of inter-web creation.
If there is one thing that the internet is good for, it would be the small space that holds the Rx Info and allows guys like us to access it!
Unless you like Cat videos,Then the Club would fall to second on the list!

By the way,you can get by without porting if you choose to.
I am on stock ports.(last dyno 357 at the wheels.)

clokker

iTrader: (2)

OK, I'll restrain my hilarity till you explain how you picked the "300hp" number and what you think it'll get you.

Danny 171

This is EXACTLY what I was looking for! Just a little guidance and a good place to start. Thank you very much

Danny 171

It seemed like a fairly reasonable number to shoot for. I'm looking for around 300. What would it get me? Uhm, fun and hopefully not TOO much of a headache.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Headache depends on skill, wallet depth, and how you run your exhaust

rx7jocke

if u want reliability, u want a modern aftermarket ecu for example haltech ps1000 or adaptronic, use quality fuel injectors like injector dynamics, aem smartcoils and a ffe triggerkit, a good intercooler and a divided manifold with dual wastgates and a suitable turbocharger. Many will say this is overkill but it will be reliable and will even get u to 400rwhp on stock ports reliable! no AI or water or whatever...

If u wanna go cheap.... Rtek 1.8 with cheapo 720cc injectors,BNR hybrid (or another hybrid) turbocharger and a arc TMIC with some Alky injection.
I did try both ways and when u driven the car for 10k miles, option 1 usually is cheaper and more rewarding.

Evil Aviator

Good, I really didn't want you to drink Bud. I'm glad that my beer recommendations were of help.

Oh, I forgot to mention that you will need an upgraded clutch pack. I probably forgot a few other things too.

Option 1 is definitely better, but typically costs 2-4 times more money and requires a skilled tuner and decent wiring skills. If poorly done, it will result in a very unreliable engine, and maybe even a blown engine. Option 2 can be accomplished by an average amateur mechanic and requires no tuning.

Danny 171

So Racing Beat suggests their fuel cut defender with the full turbo back exhaust. Would this still be necessary if I went with the Rtek chip and new fuel pump/injectors?

Evil Aviator

The Rtek chip has a fuel cut defender function, and as a bonus it does not adversely affect the stock boost gauge like the Racing Beat (and other) fuel cut defenders. Basically, the Rtek chip has made fuel cut defenders obsolete.

Just in case you are wondering, you also do not need a turbo timer because the RX-7 stock turbo is water-cooled.

Danny 171

So, essentially I could do the chip, injectors, fuel pump, radiator, run a stage 1 bnr turbo, and get around 300hp? I noticed that stages 1-3 are all the same price so what would it take to run the stage 2 or 3 compared to the stage 1?

Also, you said the fuel pressure regulator is optional. What are the pros/cons of getting or not getting one? And a FMIC would be a good investment at any stage, correct? I've heard people recommend one by m-spec.

Last question, what kind of clutch would I be looking into getting? Would Exedy's stage 1 do ok? I'm here to learn so school me on all this

Dizzy117

I think he is close enough to Missouri to get some real beer, such as Schlafly, 2nd Shift, Perennial, Cathedral Square, Boulevard, 4Hands, Urban Chestnut, etc. [/QUOTE]

Ahhahaha I'm thinking he was talking bout a different kinda bud

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Don't joke about that too much! I had an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo and got carbon monoxide poisoning back in May.

Anyway, I'm going to agree with Evil Aviator on this.

As for your goals, as previously stated all you need is a streetport. You don't need a bridge port unless you are looking for over 500 HP. I did a turbo swap and a half-bridge, and its an even bigger money pit than a normal turbo rotary.

ECU - Unless you are good with wiring, or have the money to pay someone to do it, I wouldn't mess with a standalone since the RTek will handle your needs. It took quite a bit of work for me, and that's what my degree is in.

Fuel - 720's all around with a Walbro 255. That pump is readily available for a reasonable price, and will more than support what you need. There isn't any need for upgrading anything else for the power you want. Again, I'm running more fuel and all I did was get a Walbro and bigger injectors.

Clutch - Exedy stage 1 sounds good. I have the same PP (but with a 6-puck clutch) and it has a lot of extra clamping force without a huge increase in pedal effort.

Turbo - If you stick with a stage 1, your spool shouldn't be effected too much and you will obviously have more boost without a major increase in temps. If you end up going with a FMIC, then you could pump up to a stage 2. I'm not sure on the injectors, but I think they will handle that. I'm not sure about the spool times, but you can call up Brian at BNR and he can give you a run-down on how they behave.

Intercooler - Here is where it gets tricky. The stage 1 shouldn't raise it to the point that the stock TMIC is a restriction, but if you choose to keep the stock intercooler you would be safer if you added some sort of water/meth injection. I'm still running the stock TMIC (but with a large amount of water/meth) and even with wastegate pressure of 10-11 PSI the intake temps got on the hot side. I took it to the drag strip and it was fine for a single run, but anything more than that gets iffy. With a street port and the stage 1 you might be OK with the stock TMIC, but its on the edge.
Going to a front mount would be better from the standpoint of temps and you wouldn't have to rely on water/meth, but the extra piping adds to spool time and reduces throttle response some(from what I have been told).
I was personally planning on running the stock TMIC with water/meth at least for a while, but now that I see how it behaves I'm going to move to a cheap e-bay kit until I can afford a v-mount. Here's the kit I'm looking at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GSP-86-92-RX-7-13B-TURBO-RX7-FC-FC3S-BOLT-ON-FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-KIT-/380597388819?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ARX-7&hash=item589d5f4613&vxp=mtrFrom what I have ready its actually a good intercooler, but you have to play with the fitment some to make it work.

Danny 171

Thank you guys so much! Really this is all a huge help. Hopefully I can make this happen one day

Danny 171

How much of this could I do in pieces? Could I buy, for instance, the hip, injectors, and fuel pump and drive the car for a bit or do I need that plus the turbo to match the extra fuel going in right away?

smikels

You can definately do it in parts. It seems you are on the right track. When you get the RTEK you need to make sure you have the right injectors that it is asking for. Also when you upgrade the fuel pump you will want to search the forum for fuel pump rewire. Our wiring is old in these cars and usually there will not be 12v going to your pump that you need for it to work as good as it should. A downpipe will be a good upgrade as well. Good Luck and if you have questions they have probably already been answered or just post it up.

gist864

This is a good thread. My power goal is 300whp would the FD Intake manifolds, downpipe (not FD's), and a exhaust manifold (not sure on which one i will get, i have a S4) be too much?

Also has anyone ran this V-mount set i think it's a good price for it
rotary-works.com: Intercooler and Radiator V-Mount kit for RX7 FC

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

FYI the FD manifold has very little gains, especially for a 300 HP motor. There's a thready floating around somewhere where someone did a back-to-back test and it yeilded ~15 HP with boost building a little sooner, but this was also with a larger turbo than you would need for 300 HP. Its a decent bit of work get it port matched and I think at your power goals your money and effort could be better spent elsewhere.

Rmagic

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know if there is a FMIC kit that allows for the AC and PS to remain intact ?

Danny 171

Would 720cc injectors and a 255lph fuell pump be able to handle bnr's stage 3 or 4 turbo? if not, would the rtek 1.8 chip be able to handle the pump and injectors required? Not saying this is the route I'm going, just nice to know options.

Danny 171

Where would racing beat's fuel cut defender go? I'm just wondering if my car has it or not

Dizzy117

Rtek would run all that fine, rtek is a mod to stock ecu and will already have fuel cut defender built in.

Evil Aviator

Yes, but just make sure you add the supporting pieces before you add the pieces that increase the engine output. For example, you could follow the list below, with #1-6 in any order, but #7 needs to be last.

1. Fuel Pressure Regulator and Gauge (Optional)
2. Fuel Pump
3. Rtek Chip and appropriate Fuel Injectors
4. Radiator
5. Boost Gauge
6. Clutch
7. Turbo and Intercooler

4x720cc injectors and a 255LPH fuel pump should support 300-350bhp, depending on the efficiency of the turbo and intercooler, fuel pressure, and the quality of the engine tuning. A stock ECU will not run the larger injectors properly.

It should be near the passenger-side front shock tower.