tuscanidream's fc3s build: rotary-works v-mount kit review
03-28-11, 06:09 PM
#77
The whole vmount project ended up costing more than I bought the car for.
I would have scrapped the vmount project as soon as I realized that the kit was crap if the rx7 wasn't my dream car. If it were any other car, those parts would be for sale on the forum and stock crap put back in.
05-14-11, 06:10 PM
#78
Small progress...
Installed corksport tid, maf adapter and fmic kit filter. All fit perfectly surprisingly!
Received risingrpm emission block off plates.
Ordered LanEvo MR BOV.
Still need a spal fan, oil lines, lower radiator hoes.
Installed corksport tid, maf adapter and fmic kit filter. All fit perfectly surprisingly!
Received risingrpm emission block off plates.
Ordered LanEvo MR BOV.
Still need a spal fan, oil lines, lower radiator hoes.
Last edited by tuscanidream; 05-14-11 at 06:14 PM.
05-19-11, 08:12 AM
#81
OEM LanEvo MR bov just came in yesterday. There is a flange for it underneath the hard pipe near the drivers strut tower. I can't believe how the valve works flawlessly on this one, and the one on the Freddy that RW sent me didn't. To think about it, it works better than the TurboXS RFL on the conquest I just sold. I think it was a good choice.
Last edited by tuscanidream; 05-19-11 at 08:21 AM.
05-19-11, 08:17 AM
#82
Still got to order up a spal electric fan, lower radiator hose and oil lines. Also the battery doesn't fit so I have to do something there. Then i have to install my emissions block off plates. Once those are done, I'll fire it up just so I can hear it once again. 
Then it's time to save for a rebuild, powerFC and BNR stage 4.
It's a project and I'm not rich so it's going slow.
Then it's time to save for a rebuild, powerFC and BNR stage 4.
It's a project and I'm not rich so it's going slow.
01-04-12, 05:59 PM
#87
It's been a half a year, so I figured I would post an update on how my t2 is going. Things have been slow with my car because my girlfriends rebuild went bad and needed fixing.
So I've collected/purchased a ton of parts, including dropping off the keg for rebuild and street port. List can be seen in my sig. I'm getting close to being done with purchasing the major items. I still need mostly everything to do with the fuel system. And then there will be lots of little things like gaskets and filters and such.
I hope to have the car done by the beginning of summer. I'm going to have to try and find some one to spray my engine bay on a budget. It's rusting and I can't see myself putting the engine back in with it as is. Any ideas of what some on might charge just to mask and spray it gloss black? I've never had an engine bay painted before.
So I've collected/purchased a ton of parts, including dropping off the keg for rebuild and street port. List can be seen in my sig. I'm getting close to being done with purchasing the major items. I still need mostly everything to do with the fuel system. And then there will be lots of little things like gaskets and filters and such.
I hope to have the car done by the beginning of summer. I'm going to have to try and find some one to spray my engine bay on a budget. It's rusting and I can't see myself putting the engine back in with it as is. Any ideas of what some on might charge just to mask and spray it gloss black? I've never had an engine bay painted before.
01-05-12, 11:27 AM
#89
lite rotary = easy push
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the engine bay is a simple fix get the rust out with a grinder and a wire wheel attack the rusted spots with some muriatic acid (can find at paint stores) and water mix then id go over it with some POR 15 then give the whole bay a good clean and tape up tthe stuff yuou dont want covered in paint and go to town with some dupont engine enamel spray paint
06-07-12, 03:11 PM
#90
Keg is finally back from rebuild. Street ported with RA super seals. Rotor housings looked to be in great shape. Rear iron cracked. It's been replaced.
Been slow on the parts, but I don't have much to get left. Girlfriends t2 now needs an engine harness. Injectors do crazy things so I think that's what it is. It's the only thing that has not been replaced!
With the engine on the stand I can now order bolts and gaskets, and take my time putting it together. Lui from Wankel Works will be porting the wastegate on my knight sports hybrid turbo soon.
06-08-12, 12:05 PM
#94
Mine, everything was good except rear iron.
Girlfriends car: Previous owners father said rotor housings were worn and he didn't replace them when he built it last time as it was a budget build. Turns out, he lied. Engine wasn't clearanced and all irons were rediculously destroyed, and one housing was bad.
Purchased new rotor housings and lapped irons. Motor ran for only a few minutes. Turns out that all the irons were possibly coated and not actually lapped. I felt the end play myself so I know that wasn't the cause. 2nd rebuild was all on me because I actually purchased the irons. One rotor housing got a scratch too, likely from me accidentally dropping something in the engine with all the rediculous things I was trying to do to get it started (dumping tons of oil in spark plug holes, removing uim and dumping oil in there...).
Rebuilt again. Didn't run right. Replaced a few things, including the rear end. Still not running right and I think I narrowed it done to the engine harness. Secondaries don't work and primaries sometimes flood out the car to the point where it won't even pop start. RC cleaned the injectors for first build. Replaced them with my old ones and no change. Also I believe rebuilder tried another ecu.?
Rotary woes. Buying another car for my girlfriend this weekend, so my car is on the bottom of the list.
Last edited by tuscanidream; 06-08-12 at 12:13 PM.
06-25-12, 09:25 AM
#95
Saturday I bought a 626 for my girlfriend since we have bad luck with rx7's.
Also ordered stainless steel omp lines from @karack. Started to clean lim and lim with steel wire wheels. Hopefully I'll have them fully polished unless I give up. I've done street bike sprockets before and that still takes a while.
06-25-12, 10:09 PM
#98
Both my girlfriends car and mine were purchased with low psi. Both cars ran.
Mine, everything was good except rear iron.
Girlfriends car: Previous owners father said rotor housings were worn and he didn't replace them when he built it last time as it was a budget build. Turns out, he lied. Engine wasn't clearanced and all irons were rediculously destroyed, and one housing was bad.
Purchased new rotor housings and lapped irons. Motor ran for only a few minutes. Turns out that all the irons were possibly coated and not actually lapped. I felt the end play myself so I know that wasn't the cause. 2nd rebuild was all on me because I actually purchased the irons. One rotor housing got a scratch too, likely from me accidentally dropping something in the engine with all the rediculous things I was trying to do to get it started (dumping tons of oil in spark plug holes, removing uim and dumping oil in there...).
Rebuilt again. Didn't run right. Replaced a few things, including the rear end. Still not running right and I think I narrowed it done to the engine harness. Secondaries don't work and primaries sometimes flood out the car to the point where it won't even pop start. RC cleaned the injectors for first build. Replaced them with my old ones and no change. Also I believe rebuilder tried another ecu.?
Rotary woes. Buying another car for my girlfriend this weekend, so my car is on the bottom of the list.
Mine, everything was good except rear iron.
Girlfriends car: Previous owners father said rotor housings were worn and he didn't replace them when he built it last time as it was a budget build. Turns out, he lied. Engine wasn't clearanced and all irons were rediculously destroyed, and one housing was bad.
Purchased new rotor housings and lapped irons. Motor ran for only a few minutes. Turns out that all the irons were possibly coated and not actually lapped. I felt the end play myself so I know that wasn't the cause. 2nd rebuild was all on me because I actually purchased the irons. One rotor housing got a scratch too, likely from me accidentally dropping something in the engine with all the rediculous things I was trying to do to get it started (dumping tons of oil in spark plug holes, removing uim and dumping oil in there...).
Rebuilt again. Didn't run right. Replaced a few things, including the rear end. Still not running right and I think I narrowed it done to the engine harness. Secondaries don't work and primaries sometimes flood out the car to the point where it won't even pop start. RC cleaned the injectors for first build. Replaced them with my old ones and no change. Also I believe rebuilder tried another ecu.?
Rotary woes. Buying another car for my girlfriend this weekend, so my car is on the bottom of the list.
I hope both of you guys can get your 7's on the road sooner rather than later, but you have certainly taken a more difficult (and perhaps a more rewarding) path to getting there than is necessary.
08-21-12, 05:57 AM
#99
Small update: I decided to go with the fd uim and tb. Purchased fd oil filler and base to clear the fd tb. I was going to order the CJ-Motorsports regulator mount, but it is out of stock for a few weeks. I'm going to have to have the intercooler to tb pipe remade to fit this new setup.
Blew some money this weekend (CIP motorsports meet, RotaryFest) so the ordering parts spree might be at a halt for 2 weeks.
I'm going to have to have the intercooler to tb pipe remade to fit this new setup.Blew some money this weekend (CIP motorsports meet, RotaryFest) so the ordering parts spree might be at a halt for 2 weeks.
09-21-12, 04:53 PM
#100
Received my Greddy FD compression tube as well as the CJ motorsports fpr mount. Waiting for a ton of nuts and bolts from himni so I can test fit the water pump and alternator. Next to order is fuel lines and fittings.
I purchased a used fd oil filler from a member of the forum, and a brand new fd oil filler base from mazdatrix. The base is short for clearance like I wanted, but the bolt holes/spacing fits the fc oil filler tube and not the fd one. If I angle the fc oil filler tube to the right of the compression tube, it will work. Also thinking about getting a custom filler tube made to yield the oil cap between the engine bracket (not in photo) and compression tube. It would sit in front of the throttle pulley.