I just finished fixing my headlight switch and it's nice to have properly working headlights. This isn't a real easy job and if you haven't done much soldering in the past, I wouldn't recommend taking this project on. You'd be much better playing it safe and grabbing a switch from Icemark (http://www.mazdamark.com/switches.htm
). If you're confident in your abilities, don't stop reading and hopefully you'll have a like-new switch in the end.
I'm not going into the details of removing the switch from the gauge surround. If you have a bit of trouble, try taking out the turn signal module.
This should be exactly the same for both S4 and S5 switches.
Here's the list of supplies you will need:
- Soldering iron ($2 unit I purchased off the clearance table at the local H/w store. 8w, decently small tip)
- Solder (.032 dia., 2.5oz 60/40 mix from Radio Shack, $5 for the spool)
- Solder sucking vacuum ($7 from Radio Shack, but this one kinda sucks, try and find a better unit)
- Contact cleaner ($6 from Pep Boys, QD brand)
- White lithium grease or some type of sticky lubricant
- 200 grit sandpaper
- Misc. screwdrivers and highly recommend a trim pulling pry
- Sharpie marker
Ok, here's the step-by-step:
1.) Move all switches to their lowest position, then remove all the ***** from the unit. They should all just pop-off when you pull on them. Some might require a small amount of prying.
2.) Pull the plate that covers the main PCB by gently prying as shown:
3.) Flip the switch over, then remove the solder from the circled point by heating it up with your iron, then sucking it out with the vacuum tool. Be careful not to burn the PCB or apply too much heat.
4.) Flip it over again, then remove the solder from the points circled below (try not to burn the surrounding plastic like my dumb *** did):
5.) Flip the unit over once more, and carefully seperate the brown board from the switch body. If you removed all the solder, it should come out with little effort (you just have to click it out of the tabs holding it in). If it doesn't, get an assistant to heat the points up and pry them out one at a time. Be very careful if you have to do this, you run the risk of cracking the PCB or destroying a trace (sorry, no pics, hands were too busy.) Also beware of the black piece of plastic below. It can pop out at you and you do not want to lose it's inards.
6.) Use your sharpie to mark the position of the white turning piece on the bottom side in relation to the board. It is important that it remains in the same position during re-installation. If your dimmer **** is malfunctioning, check the traces on this board, and you may want to remove the white piece and check the contacts below. Mine where black, but I think it's normal. Just check for corrosion or sooty build-up and remove it as necessary. Sanding the are and cleaning it up with vasoline works well.
7.) You can now remove the black plastic deal nestled in the cavity. When doing so, use the prying tool in one hand, and with your other, cover the are that is circled with your finger while you pry it out. There is a spring with a ball bearing in there that will shoot out if you don't hold it in.
8.) Now you are free to remove the white plastic insert. Prying in the order the points are numbered seems to work best, but be very careful of the thin prying points 3, 4, and 5.
9.) Flip the unit over again and remove the solder from the rest of the points in that back "row" on the PCB.
10.) You should now be able to pry the switch plate itself out from the back-side (the one you pulled the white insert from). Again, be carful because the side of the switchYou may need to resort to the heat and pull method mention in step 5.