xvampyrex

Ok I have searched far and wide but I havent found what Im looking for.....I found one for a 3rd Gen....but not 2nd....Im looking for an engine removal guide....I'd like a step by step guide....I dun care if there are pics...it'd be a plus obviously...but does anyone have one....Also if I were to pull out the engine....Would there be any consequences for the tranny to be without the engine for awhile? I mean I'd put a plastic bag around the opening and tie it tightly so no water got in there....but if I were to pull the engine out....besides the tranny what else would I have to worry about messing up because the engine not being in there?

Thanks ahead of time,
Luis

Icemark

Shop manuals for both series can be found on-line at:
http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html
http://slackerware.dynu.com/fsm/
http://208.62.166.66:82/guest/shop_manuals/
or (86-88)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factor...nual/1986_1988/
and (89-91)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factor...nual/1989_1991/

Bob_The_Normal

You don't have to worry about anything that I can remember... the only place the transmission will leak from is the rear where the driveshaft goes in... and you should drain the transmission before you pull that out unless you have a plug or something for it.

You can put something around the fuel lines (send and recieve), or cap them off... I did neither, just made sure they were above the tank level-wise.

Oil cooler lines will leak oil of course, just have something to keep it from getting all over the ground, unless you don't care.

--Gary

ilike2eatricers

http://rotaryresurrection.com/rotary.../engremov.html

Bob_The_Normal

I was going to link that, but as awesome as Kevin is (he knows just about everything there is to know about an engine rebuild front and backwards, upside down and without him I'd still have an engine block sitting in my driveway waiting for me to figure out what to do next in the teardown, scratching my head... lol) that writeup is REALLY simplistic and for someone that hasn't done it before it's not a great guide. If I was to do it again, I could probably use that guide, and I'd just remember the other stuff as I go. But not for the first time.

You're better off following the FSM the first time... it makes sure you don't screw anything up... unless you can't follow directions The real problem I had was that there are so many SMALL things that all add up... just small questions here and there.. but it takes someone that really knows what is going on to answer them all.

Don't bother Kevin with them though, he's too busy answering MY questions. ;D

EDIT: I'll stop replying to EVERY reply now... you can have your thread back now vamp.

--Gary

jhammons01

The below is mostly plagerized from Scathcarts write up. I added a lot to it as I pulled out my motor. I am currently at the point where I am ready to hook up the chains and start wiggling. I have not added all of my notes yet as I am not taking time to do that to this document yet. Haynes manual sucks left out about 50 steps!


Engine Removal

Ok, first off, this is how I would do it. This is an important point to remember, b/c there will be certain disagreement between myself and others. Some things others will do (Haynes says to remove the oil cooler, it is a waste of time IMO), whereas some things others won’t (such as remove the radiator and the battery). I have done 5 engine swaps now:
-(1) 1988 S4 NA
-(1) 1990 S5 NA
-(2) 1990 S5 TII’s
-(1) 1991 TII
And this listed procedure allows me to get the job done most effectively. If you feel you can skip some parts of this list to go faster, by all means go ahead, but taking your time during an engine removal really should be an ideal to follow.
As a counterpart, if there is anything else you feel you should remove b/c you are worried about damaging it (air pump, alternator maybe?), by all means, label it and do it.

A few other points I would like to stress:
- Label EVERYTHING you remove. If you take apart a vacuum hose, label the nipple with a piece of masking tape with a letter and the hose end you take off with masking tape and a letter. Use a permanent pen, not a ball point one. (the fuel line labels tend to come off since gas dissolves glue, so make sure you take extra care with those ones)
-The Haynes Manual sucks for engine removal. Just use it for picture reference.
-You’ll want some kind of engine hoist. You can rent them VERY reasonably. Don’t even think about lifting the engine out without some kind of lift. I don’t care if you’re huge. I did my first R&R using a 4x4” beam through a hole in the ceiling to get into the attic above the garage, and chained up a 1 ton pull-along winch. Was a little slow, but worked great. I have since bought a 4000 lb engine lift.
-You do not need an engine leveler, but they help. If the rental comes with one, use it, if not, don’t pay extra.
-Have a place to set the engine. It will not sit flat, and setting it on the oil pan may damage it. If you do not have an engine stand, mock up a square of 2”x4” square to go around the bolts on the oil pan.
-Make sure you can remember where the bolts go. What I do is finger thread a bolt back into the hole it came out of. Example: After removing the hood, I finger thread the four 10mm bolts that came off it back into the holes in the hood. You WILL forget where some bolts go, so do this, or label them (more time consuming).
-When in doubt, seek help. When completely overwhelmed, take it to a mechanic.
- If you have access to a covered, cement floored garage, use it at any cost.
- I cannot stress this enough: TAKE YOUR TIME. Take notes if you need to, draw diagrams, and label where things came apart.
This is by no means hard. Really, all that is need is:
-a good set of metric sockets. Commonly used sizes are: 6mm, 8 mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm and a 23mm
-a good set of metric wrenches with the same sizes as above
-breaker bar, or a piece of pipe for your socket driver
-socket extensions
-set of screwdrivers
-hammer
-needle nose pliers
-channel lock pliers
-chain and u-bolts to attach them with (or bolts to bolt the chain in a loop).
-masking tape and permanent pen
-towels, rags, hand cleaner
-patience!
-Good vocabulary of swear words, and something for relaxation breaks, coffee, beer, or cigarettes if you smoke.
-A friend for some steps.
Of course, air tools, a torque wrench, etc. are all nice, but really, unnecessary.



*The below list is specific to N/A Standard cars. For TII and Automatic changes to the list, email me at shutup_billy@hotmail.com. As well, anyone finding missing steps or errors can email me as well. After all, this does all go by memory!

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure by disconnecting the fuel pump wiring located on the back side of the drivers side shock tower fire wall while the engine is running (if the engine runs…. If not, just crank it over with the wiring disconnected) The electronic ignition will be in the way of you seeing the square connector. Three 10mm nuts will hold the ignition. Loosen and lift the ignition to the side, put back the three nuts finger tight . You’ll see two connectors under, Disconnect the square four wire connector. Lay the ignition back on top of the post start the car and let it run until it dies on its own. Spray some form of penetrant on the exhaust bolts of the down pipe.

2. Disconnect the windshield washer sprayer hose from the hood. This is found on the passenger side rear of the engine. Label the line you take apart.

3. Remove the hood. Scroll around the mounting arms so you can realign it with something sharp, like a scribe or a pin. With some help from a friend to hold the hood, undo, the four 10mm bolts. I put towels under the corners of the hood in case it slides back. Put the hood on towels somewhere.

4. Cover the fenders with old towels or something. Wear pants that don’t have buttons or zippers (sweat pants); they’ll scratch the paint.

5. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, and then disconnect the positive cable.

6. Remove the two bolts that hold down the battery. Remove the battery and the plastic around it. You will see a plastic square when everything it removed. If you brush away all of the dust and dirt, you’ll see 4 bolts. The may be rusty, but you can remove them. You’ll need some extensions to get them.

7. Remove the 4 fan nuts. Use a box end wrench. Set the fan in the fan shroud and put the nuts back on the studs (you don’t need to take out the fan)

8. Remove the intake plastic up to the throttle body. This includes the two bolts on the front of the car for the ram-intake plastic piece, the air filter and AFM assembly, and the clamp going up to the throttle body. Label the vacuum lines from the air pump, etc. that you pull out of the intake plastic piping.

9. Jack up the car and put jack stands under the frame. If you still have the stock belly pans, remove them and replace their bolts. These bolts will be rusty and may break. Don’t worry about it; I buy new ones.

10. Remove the radiator cap (or bleed screw on S4 cars), and then using a container that can hold at least 8L, drain the fluid from the middle of the radiator below the car, from the plastic star-headed screw or plastic wing nut in the bottom of the radiator. I recommend replacing this screw, but it is not necessary. Hint: start unscrewing the screw and get it loose with the screwdriver, then unscrew it by hand. Let the plug just fall into the container and fish it out later. Using channel lock pliers on the clamps, take the radiator hoses off of the engine block. Some twisting by hand on the hoses will be necessary to get the bonded rubber off of the aluminum. If this does not work, you can cut the hoses off, but count on buying replacements (which is never a bad idea).

11. Take off the lower heater core clamp and hose, where the lower radiator meets the radiator. It is a small hose, maybe an inch in diameter, and usually the rusted iron is bonded to the rubber. Good Luck!

12. Label and remove the overflow coolant line. Set it out of the way.

13. Label and disconnect the coolant level sensor connector at the middle of the top of the radiator.

14. On S4 cars, from beneath the car, label and remove the two wires from the coolant sensor at the bottom drivers’ side of the radiator.

15. Remove the four bolts holding on the radiator, and then lift the radiator up and out. Set it somewhere front-end down, and leave the fan in the shroud for the reinstall.

16. Remove all of the belts, and label them as you take them off.

17. Label and remove the plug wires.

18. Label and remove the two fuel lines. They run parallel to each other, and are located coming off of the fuel filter in the rear drivers side area. These are hard to get off their nipples; I use channel-lock pliers on the hose itself.

19. Unbolt the throttle cable/ cruise control cable. I normally remove where they connect to the throttle cam (careful! The plastic connector on the cruise control has a tendency to snap and break), and then remove the mount that holds them on. I then swing the entire assembly towards the front of the car, and lift the engine out of the hole it makes, but you can disassemble the mount for the cables and separate the two if you want to realign the system later. This is really only an issue if you have cruise control.

20. If you have A/C, remove the four bolts that mount the compressor. These are TOUGH to get out.

21. If you have p/s, remove the 5 nuts and bolts that mount the pump to the block. These are Tough to get out as well.

22. Wiggle the bracket out of the way, towards the front of the car and hang the pump and compressor with some cord or wire. This will take some time, and I usually get a friend to help me. Do not be afraid by any means to use some force (ok, a LOT of force) to push the bracket against the shock tower. I push as hard as I can to get the bracket off those studs. You will swear at this point.

23. Grab a coffee or a beer. I recommend some good beer. “You can have any beer you want in this place, as long as it’s a corona.” Clean your hands, and stare at disdain at you poor car. Swear a few times, and kick the crap out of something small and inanimate, like that old a/c condenser.

24. On the passenger side of the car, on the interior, remove the screws and the plastic scuff plates Rocker plate first. Peel back the carpet and push it out of the way. Use something to prop the carpet out of your way. Again, don’t be afraid to push hard on the carpet.

25. Remove the four nuts that hold the cover over the ECU. Then, remove the connectors from the ECU. Also, there may be some connectors further up the wiring harness. Your blower fan is in the way. Remove the plastic pieces under the dash disconnect hose clamp from the ducts and then unbolt the three 10mm to drop the fan. Disconnect the wiring from the fan and set aside. Now you can see the Yellow and orange/yellow connectors and the hole through the firewall.


26. Label the two hoses connected to the canister and then remove the charcoal canister behind the right rear shock tower. Or just lift the canister up and lay it on the windshield while it is still connected. If you have CSS (cold start assist), remove this container and block it off. Don’t reinstall this. This was the stupidest idea Mazda ever had.

27. Pull the ECU wires slowly out through the firewall. Get that friend to help you by feeding them through on the inside. It is not necessary to remove the Cruise control unit or the ABS to do this. Trust me on that one. Disconnect any connection of the ECU wires to the engine bay (such as the connector to the vacuum/pressure sensor and afm), and tape the wires to the top of the engine.

28. Label and disconnect the vacuum line leading to the vacuum/pressure sonsor.

29. Drain the engine oil and reinstall the drain plug.

30. Label and disconnect the wiring from the driver’s side of the engine. This begins with the alternator (a bolt and a connector), and moves down the side of the engine, eventually ending up at the starter. The wiring disconnects from the starter via a single bolt. I believe the oil level sending unit and oil temp unit also plug into this harness, label and disconnect them as well.

31. Remove the coolant hose below the oil filter, leading up to the heater core in the firewall. Avoid using pliers to clamp onto the hose to twist it off, the nipples bend and crush shut VERY easily.

32. Separate the vacuum line for the power brake booster somewhere along the rear of the engine. There are a few places you can do this.

33. Remove the starter. The top bolt for the starter has a nut on the other end, and a grounding wire is attached to this nut. Make sure you put a wrench on both sides or you’ll spin it forever.

34. Unbolt the twin pre-cat mid pipe and remove it. This will be difficult, since the bolts will be rusted on. Use plenty of penetrant, a good breaker bar, and a torch if necessary. Unbolt the split air pipe from the ACV. This is the pipe leading off the catalytic converter going to the passenger side of the intake manifold. It bolts on and off via two 10mm nuts. You do not need a new gasket for this, I always re-use mine.

35. Unbolt the oil cooler lines. Use two wrenches of the proper size on the front, and a 23mm socket on the back. You should be using new crush washers anyway upon reinstallation, but you can reuse the old ones. Elastic a plastic (that rhymes!) bag over the ends of the lines to prevent oil from leaking onto the floor.


36. Bolt on the chains to the OEM engine lift mounts. Use good chain and good u-bolts. The rear engine lift connecting may bolt on through the tranny. Make sure to fix this first, so that the bolt is not connecting the tranny to the block.

37. Set up the lift and take the slack out of the middle of the chain. Just barely lift on the engine.

38. Unbolt the three bolts that go through the oil pan on the passenger side engine mount.

39. Unbolt the single bolt that from the cross member to the drivers side engine mount.

40. Unbolt the remaining 5 bolts holding the transmission to the engine. This may take some time as you won’t get many degrees to turn the wrench, be patient!

41. Put a block of wood on a jack and support the transmission.

42. Make sure there is nothing still connected to the engine, and begin be lifting the engine slightly. Pull the engine out of the transmission. It may take some wiggling, but it will pop forward. The pop forward is why I suggest removing the rad, as this pop can send the engine right through the rad core.

43. Lift the engine up and out of the car, being wary of anything still connected. I pull it out through the loop created by the cruise control and throttle cables connected together, but as stated earlier, you can disconnect them. It may be necessary to lower the car off of the jack stands in order to get enough clearance for the lift to get the engine over the car.

44. Lower the block onto the engine stand or the wooden blocks and take a break to feel satisfied with yourself.

Reinstallation is the reversal of the above steps.
Wiggling the engine into the tranny may take some persistence, but it is possible. Use that friend!