Racer X-8

We haven't removed the omp. Didn't even look at how it could be removed. Sorry, hopefully someone else has pulled one and can tell you.

As for the injectors, they just screw-out like big hex. head bolts (19mm wrench, I think).

Plan on finding the lines in need of replacement. Both lines going to the intake manifold injectors broke as soon as the injectors started rotating upon their removal. It was like inevitible, they were just that brittle.

BlaCkPlaGUE

I mentioned this in another post of mine, but never got a straight answer. Is it necessary while your down there doing this to remove the oil injectors and clean those up? or is the oil injector just pretty much a ******* pipe that has no spray pattern and dumps oil in the engine, thus not requiring cleaning?

thx

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I don't think they have any defined spray pattern. Here's where they sit on the top:

And here's the opening that the oil comes through:



There's a decent amount of distance between the end of the injector and the opening, so even if it did spray in a pattern, it would just be an undefined blob by the time it hit the opening.

I'm thinking that carb cleaner would be ok for cleaning the injectors and pump, what do you guys think?

HAILERS

The injector is sucking at the metered oil on it's intake stroke. There'd have to be some degree of atomization.

The injectors have what looks like a rubber poppet valve inside. Does carb cleaner have any bad effects on rubber? Probably not in the short run.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I just ordered my tubing and am pulling out the FSM to read up on OMP removal. That site rocks, got a good SPDT relay for $5.87 I'm moving my stereo off the stock wiring and planning on running a line directly from the battery.

Anyways, this should be a great project. Thanks for the all the info you posted.

BTW, I checked the PDF page that has the tubing on it and it's primary use is for air brake lines, and is rated at 150psi. That should handle oil injection with no problem.

Racer X-8

Were you on page 4120? I think you were reading the header stuff for "D.O.T. Type “A” Nylon Air Brake Tubing".

Look to the bottom-left section of that page with the heading "Teflon® (FEP & PFA) Flexible Tubing". That's the section that has the #48701031 tubing.

No problem with your order though, as long as you bought the 48701031 tubing.

You should see their printed catalog. It's hardbound with real thin pages and is 8.5 x 11, about 4" thick! I just checked, it has 4,640 pages, not including the 96-page index in the back. It's like a NY city phone book. Their distribution centers must be HUGE! Yet, our orders always arrive next-day here from Atlanta. Amazing, really.

Racer X-8

Hey, what you need is a Haynes manual. Seriously, it'll be worth its weight in gold. I always buy a Haynes manual for all of my cars (nothing but Haynes).

Having said that, and assuming you get one, I found the answer to everything you have asked right in there just now. Chapter 2 Part A section 9. It tells you how to check your oil injector nozzles, check your oil metering pump (output volume), how to remove the metering pump (did you know there are mechanically controlled and also electrically controlled omp's? I didn't ), how to adjust the mecancially controlled ones... good stuff.

I'm gonna go check MRX Rotary's oil injectors right now... now that I know how. (You should be able to blow thru them by mouth from the air hose connector, but not in the opposite direction.)

Racer X-8

One final pic - finished the install & all seems well.

I was concerned about the lack of oil injection during the time it took the omp to finally fill the new lines to get oil to the injectors. We added even more mmo to the gas for a little more lubricity / protection. There was only a little over 1/4 tank of gas - good for that rich mix for a short duration. Turns out, it takes maybe 20 - 30 miles of common driving to fill the new lines.

I had no idea of how to pre-fill them. Then again, I didn't know they wouldn't fill-up at initial crank-up either. I guess that's why they call it a "metering" pump, huh? I suppose a very small squirter, bent at its tip to get to the itty bitty hole in the banjo fitting... ah heck with that. Just let the omp fill your lines & add a stiff dose of mmo to your gas, or what those people do who aren't even using their injectors, if you want, just for that 20 - 30 mile fill-up period.

So, did anybody else do this yet?

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I'm about to, I just sent my injectors out for a cleaning, and as soon as they get back I'll begin.

Racer X-8

Fijenson did it & thought his lines melted BUT, he found out later that they are just fine

Here's the thread (that I wish would be deleted now)... https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...0&page=1&pp=15

All is well with the world.

RussTypeS

iTrader: (3)

This thread belongs in the archives...

jhammons01

I agree, there is another write up that is just as good. The Mods need to re-title the threads so that it reads more to the point, like "How to fix you OMP lines"

Seems there are quirks to the S4-S5 that pop up over and over. OMP lines, Premix, FPD, TPS, That bolt that goes under the starter being different. Most of the threads are already there but a few need to be added.

ranger306ci

Just so you all know, the pressure in your lines is very, very, very low! Unless......the line clogs. The omp is a positive displacement pump, so if a line clogs, it WILL continue to pump until the line fails. But, for all intent and purposes, a soda straw will hold the pressure! ( remember, one end is a vaccum!)
So, any tubing you put on will hold the pressure, probably don't even need to clap it, if it is a tight fit. Just my .02.
I would reccomend transparent line, so you can see the oil, though.

jhammons01

Again, this post needs to be archived as the MOP/OMP comes up all the time. The fact that a nice hand drawing (which I personally have a printed copy in my haynes book) will be very useful to those that are trying to replace the lines for the first time.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

Really nice work!
Im replying to mark the thread for myself.

-a

Racer X-8

Glad to see my efforts here are helping others. Those lines are still looking good as new. Don't worry about that. Get in there and do it, before your old ones "do" you.
Regards...

MRX_Rotary

There is a copy of this thread in the 1st gen archives. But not in the 2nd gen archives for some reason.

flubyux2

ay yo, i want to place an order for these materials... they ask for an account username and password. is there a way to get around this or a universal id and password we can use?

thanks
chris

Racer X-8

Not to my knowledge. Have you tried starting-up a new individual account? Why not?

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/IMSRR1?PAMODE=*ENTR

Like I said, I got mine thru my job, where we order pretty much daily with them, then I just reimbursed them in cash for the cost. But, the means is there to set-up a new individual account, like any other online ordering process. Why not go for it?

xtremeskier97

Bookmarked....this is a good write up!

Thanks Racer X-8!

Archive this thread!

johnnyg

I second that! Funny thing is I was just cleaning/inspecting my old OMP lines last night and thought "why can't you just re-use the old connectors and replace the hose?" Well, now I have my answer! If I had read this thread a week ago, I would have replaced my lines just for maintanance reasons.

flubyux2

i got my order from MSC for my 10 feet of PFA hose and 12 crimp clamps. im going to start out cutting the hose sections to length with some excess on the ends, just incase something goes wrong.

there was one other thing i had thought about. the OMP system is essentially open at the injector. it doesnt necessarily spray like a fuel injector. the oil enters the banjoy fitting and travels down the injector via the holes in the shaft of the injector body. the vaccum created inside the manifold and/or rotor housing is what Draws the oil into the engine. the air is supplied via hoses, with a source drawn from the inlet air pipe, pre-TB. this allows filtered air to be sucked thru the oil injectors to help draw in the oil. depending on the rate of oil flow (low volume at low rpm and high vaccum, or high volume at high rpm with low/zero vaccum), the injectors should administer a similar amount of oil, no? with nothing about 14.5psia pushing the oil into the engine, the flow is pretty much predictable.

BUT

what if there was a way to improve the oil dispersion? i was thinking of a way to plumb pressurized air from the smog pump into the oil injectors. the higher pressure of air traveling through the injector might disperse the oil finer and improve the "spray patteren" and atomize the oil better... if its even atomizable. the way i see it, if the oil can be atomized better, it would create a better pattern and disperse more evenly and this would improve the apex seal lubrication. instead of a steady drip on the center of the apex seal as revealed by numerous teardowns in the past, the oil may spread out further and lubricate more of the apex seal as it passes the injector orifice. considering that the primary ports are also injected w/ oil, the high velocity of air should disperse the finer droplets of oil more thouroughly.

but, with the rate of oil flow dictated by the OMP, would there be any downsides? would, perhaps, the oil flow be too small and "lean" out the oil/air mixture if there was more air traveling through the injectors? the oil flow would be the same as before, but there would be more air carrying it away, making it "leaner" per se. would there be negative effects to the additonal pressure at the oil injectors?

if there was a detrimental effect to having a lean Oil/air mixture from the injectors, could it be combatted by increasing the oil flow from the OMP? there may not be a way to do this on either engines, mechanical or electrical. the oil feed rate to the injectors is dictated by either the electric motor or chain driven motor in the stock OMP... but what about 2-stroke conversion w/ an external oil resivoir and a pressurized oil feed line? would that force feed more oil to the OMP and eventually more oil through the lines?

what do you guys think?

87GXLRX7

ya don't worry about the lines they will hold up, for 6 months i ran one line with same type of line used for windshield washer fluid held up fine (wouldn't recommend it but it got me by).. the teflon lines would defiently be the best option! IMO

MRX_Rotary

Yeah, it's been nearly a year now and they've held up like a champ! I'm certain that whether or not the teflon lines are up to the task is not a concern.

RETed

Yeah.
It's called pre-mixing.


-Ted