Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion
#28
Test fitted UIM/LIM in engine bay today. Looks like the hood should barely clear Had to grind off the little nubs on inside of LIM to clear fuel rails.
Bought a new 14" metal cutting saw and chopped the flange off of the exhaust manifold. This was actually considerably difficult to cut 3 runners without trashing the pitch and cleanliness of the cuts. Waiting on more 12 gauge 304 to arrive for my friend to lengthen and lower the runners.
Bought a new 14" metal cutting saw and chopped the flange off of the exhaust manifold. This was actually considerably difficult to cut 3 runners without trashing the pitch and cleanliness of the cuts. Waiting on more 12 gauge 304 to arrive for my friend to lengthen and lower the runners.
#29
Update:
Looks like the blitz intercooler / rad will not fit with the longer motor. Selling the blitz and a greddy fmic is on the way. This should mount forward moreso allowing the radiator to move forward as well. If anyone is interested the blitz and piping is for sale.
Looks like the blitz intercooler / rad will not fit with the longer motor. Selling the blitz and a greddy fmic is on the way. This should mount forward moreso allowing the radiator to move forward as well. If anyone is interested the blitz and piping is for sale.
#31
I ordered the Greddy 2-row M-spec knock off
#38
Despite a few hiccups, a little more progress today. Finished up seperating, labeling, and rewrapping most of this wiring harness for the ECU. Time to build a coil bracket and coil harness, and wire up the injector clips. Then, onto sorting out the 20b harness, clipping the necessary sensor connectors and splicing into the Mtech harness.
#41
Update:
Been out of town for work past week and a half. Starting back this saturday on the build.
This weekend immediate goals to finish up exhaust manifold with the new 2.25OD piping and mount up radiator/intercooler. Next, make a bracket to mount coils and chop/reweld the oil filler neck to fit behind intake elbow. Then, onto wiring, fuel system, and intercooler piping.
Been out of town for work past week and a half. Starting back this saturday on the build.
This weekend immediate goals to finish up exhaust manifold with the new 2.25OD piping and mount up radiator/intercooler. Next, make a bracket to mount coils and chop/reweld the oil filler neck to fit behind intake elbow. Then, onto wiring, fuel system, and intercooler piping.
#43
Update:
We finished the manifold and mounted the turbo for the last test fitment. Fingers crossed as we lowered the turbo down onto the flange......perfect fitment
Turbo is as far foward and high as possible. Its nearly 1.5mm from touching the hood and the exhaust side is open to the outside air. This should definitely help to get the hot air out of the bay! Wastegate is 2mm from the frame sitting perfectly behind the flange. Ill post a pic on final assembly.
FMIC came in and looks rather thin. Greddy M-spec knock-off, only 2.5" thickness.
Do you guys think this will be sufficient for 18-20psi of boost if 1000cc of water/meth is being sprayed? Or should I send this back and buy a 3"?
We finished the manifold and mounted the turbo for the last test fitment. Fingers crossed as we lowered the turbo down onto the flange......perfect fitment
Turbo is as far foward and high as possible. Its nearly 1.5mm from touching the hood and the exhaust side is open to the outside air. This should definitely help to get the hot air out of the bay! Wastegate is 2mm from the frame sitting perfectly behind the flange. Ill post a pic on final assembly.
FMIC came in and looks rather thin. Greddy M-spec knock-off, only 2.5" thickness.
Do you guys think this will be sufficient for 18-20psi of boost if 1000cc of water/meth is being sprayed? Or should I send this back and buy a 3"?
#44
Update:
Fuel hanger assembled/installed and -8AN Feed line ran to firewall. The pumps are wired for a staged system. The second pump is triggered off the methanol boost sensor. When the methanol/water kicks in at 10psi the second fuel pump will engage. If this works as planned, this should take alot of work off of the alternator, keep fuel pressure in check, and keep from warming the fuel.
Returned the intercooler and finally found a 3" greddy style fmic, waiting on its arrival to begin intercooler/charge pipes.
Returned the intercooler and finally found a 3" greddy style fmic, waiting on its arrival to begin intercooler/charge pipes.
#45
Update:
Very busy with my day job, but still managing to make decent progress. Fuel system completed last night.
-8 line from Tank to Engine Bay. Placed the Russell 40 micron filter in the engine bay for easy access. -8 line splits into two -6 lines at a Mr. Gasket Y-Block, which also holds the electronic pressure gauge sender. -6 lines feed into Vibrant fittings on the front of the rails and return back to the regulator which is mounted in front of the shock tower. Will post pics when weather clears!
Next step is to pressure test the system on each pump and install the now completed wiring harness.
Very busy with my day job, but still managing to make decent progress. Fuel system completed last night.
-8 line from Tank to Engine Bay. Placed the Russell 40 micron filter in the engine bay for easy access. -8 line splits into two -6 lines at a Mr. Gasket Y-Block, which also holds the electronic pressure gauge sender. -6 lines feed into Vibrant fittings on the front of the rails and return back to the regulator which is mounted in front of the shock tower. Will post pics when weather clears!
Next step is to pressure test the system on each pump and install the now completed wiring harness.
#46
Finished the fuel system and pressure tested it yesterday. Primary KG Parts Rail shooting fuel EVERYWHERE around the top injector bores. Apparently larger O-rings are required, going to try larger O-rings tonight.
Onto installing wiring harness and ignition coils
The To-Do list is now getting smaller:
-fab downpipe
-fab intercooler piping (arrives today)
-fab coil bracket
-modify oil filler neck
-fab radiator filler neck and rad mounts
-start it up and drive it!
Onto installing wiring harness and ignition coils
The To-Do list is now getting smaller:
-fab downpipe
-fab intercooler piping (arrives today)
-fab coil bracket
-modify oil filler neck
-fab radiator filler neck and rad mounts
-start it up and drive it!
#47
Senior Member
iTrader: (38)
Update:
Very busy with my day job, but still managing to make decent progress. Fuel system completed last night.
-8 line from Tank to Engine Bay. Placed the Russell 40 micron filter in the engine bay for easy access. -8 line splits into two -6 lines at a Mr. Gasket Y-Block, which also holds the electronic pressure gauge sender. -6 lines feed into Vibrant fittings on the front of the rails and return back to the regulator which is mounted in front of the shock tower. Will post pics when weather clears!
Next step is to pressure test the system on each pump and install the now completed wiring harness.
Very busy with my day job, but still managing to make decent progress. Fuel system completed last night.
-8 line from Tank to Engine Bay. Placed the Russell 40 micron filter in the engine bay for easy access. -8 line splits into two -6 lines at a Mr. Gasket Y-Block, which also holds the electronic pressure gauge sender. -6 lines feed into Vibrant fittings on the front of the rails and return back to the regulator which is mounted in front of the shock tower. Will post pics when weather clears!
Next step is to pressure test the system on each pump and install the now completed wiring harness.
#48
Intersting enough I just finished up my fuel system last night its time consuming stuff when replacing everything. I went with -8 feed and -8 return line. I did used dual 416 walbros with a 10 micron fuel filter instead. But im running E85 on my rx-7 its just a little 13b though
Are you going to run staged pumps?
Yea its definitely time consuming assembling the hose ends.
#50
- Two pumps running full time at idle/low load may overwhelm your FPR. I've read many threads in the Supra Forums where two Walbro 400LPH overflowed the standard A1000 Aeromotive FPR's ORB -6 return port. Alot of these guys had to bore out the return port inner hole. Otherwise, base pressure would bottom out at 60+psi
-Two pumps full time may eliminate the signs of failure of one pump. If one pump fails you may not notice any change in AFR, Fuel Press, etc until you hit boost. However, in a series, the pump that would most likely fail would be the 1 primary pump used at idle/low loads as its seeing the most time. If this primary pump gives out, at least the car will die and you'll know it.
Curious to see your setup. Do you have a build thread?