Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion

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Old 07-29-14, 01:56 AM
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I would still advise that you run one flexible intake joiner to prevent any fatiguing, even though they are solid/semi-solid mounts they will still have flex in them.
Old 07-29-14, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by hsmidy
I would still advise that you run one flexible intake joiner to prevent any fatiguing, even though they are solid/semi-solid mounts they will still have flex in them.
Will take that into consideration. Maybe just do clamshells on turbo and intake elbow, and traditional silicon on intercooler.
Old 07-30-14, 09:04 AM
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Test fitted UIM/LIM in engine bay today. Looks like the hood should barely clear Had to grind off the little nubs on inside of LIM to clear fuel rails.

Bought a new 14" metal cutting saw and chopped the flange off of the exhaust manifold. This was actually considerably difficult to cut 3 runners without trashing the pitch and cleanliness of the cuts. Waiting on more 12 gauge 304 to arrive for my friend to lengthen and lower the runners.
Attached Thumbnails Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-uimbayfit.jpg   Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-chop-manifold.jpg  
Old 07-31-14, 07:12 AM
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Update:

Looks like the blitz intercooler / rad will not fit with the longer motor. Selling the blitz and a greddy fmic is on the way. This should mount forward moreso allowing the radiator to move forward as well. If anyone is interested the blitz and piping is for sale.
Old 07-31-14, 08:56 AM
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I figured I would allow you to figure that one out on your own, but before you waste your money on the Greddy, it is not going to fit either.
Old 07-31-14, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
I figured I would allow you to figure that one out on your own, but before you waste your money on the Greddy, it is not going to fit either.
lol I figured the greddy should mount in front of the frame which should allow me to move the radiator forward moreso? I will remake brackets for the radiator to move it forward which should gain clearance. Then it should simply be a matter of routing the piping underneith, no?

I ordered the Greddy 2-row M-spec knock off
Old 07-31-14, 11:00 AM
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Greddy inlet and outlets are 180* pointing parallel to the FMIC, you will see when it arrives.
Old 07-31-14, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
Greddy inlet and outlets are 180* pointing parallel to the FMIC, you will see when it arrives.
I see, so its designed for piping to run infront of radiator rather then behind.
Old 07-31-14, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
I figured I would allow you to figure that one out on your own, but before you waste your money on the Greddy, it is not going to fit either.
Lol! The trials and tribulations of these installs.
Old 07-31-14, 04:06 PM
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Going to see if I can cancel order a buy a thicker ic w 90 degree outlets or ill just cut the greddy and weld straight piping. No biggie this is the fun stuff
Old 07-31-14, 04:12 PM
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The S5 thermostat housing you bought is not going to fit, check your other thread.
Old 07-31-14, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
The S5 thermostat housing you bought is not going to fit, check your other thread.
I saw that, thanks, it was an old used one. Ill just fab up something in the mean time until yours is avail.
Old 07-31-14, 05:21 PM
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Despite a few hiccups, a little more progress today. Finished up seperating, labeling, and rewrapping most of this wiring harness for the ECU. Time to build a coil bracket and coil harness, and wire up the injector clips. Then, onto sorting out the 20b harness, clipping the necessary sensor connectors and splicing into the Mtech harness.
Attached Thumbnails Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-ignition-wires.jpg   Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-wiring-harness.jpg  
Old 07-31-14, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by t-von
Lol! The trials and tribulations of these installs.
Damn right!
Old 08-01-14, 12:07 AM
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Test fitted hood and found a spot for the turbo.

Assembled this Y for the Walbros.

Finished up the intake elbow now to be coated

First runner welded on manifold. Manifold reworking should be finished this weekend.
Attached Thumbnails Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-splitter.jpg   Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-fitment-hood-clearance.jpg   Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-elbow.jpg   Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-test-fit.jpg  
Old 08-15-14, 10:46 AM
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Update:

Been out of town for work past week and a half. Starting back this saturday on the build.

This weekend immediate goals to finish up exhaust manifold with the new 2.25OD piping and mount up radiator/intercooler. Next, make a bracket to mount coils and chop/reweld the oil filler neck to fit behind intake elbow. Then, onto wiring, fuel system, and intercooler piping.
Old 08-19-14, 12:50 PM
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Finishing up manifold adjustments. Added length to the runners and changed angle slightly. Trying to get the turbo to sit as far forward and high as possible, away from the motor.
Old 08-20-14, 10:00 AM
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Update:

We finished the manifold and mounted the turbo for the last test fitment. Fingers crossed as we lowered the turbo down onto the flange......perfect fitment

Turbo is as far foward and high as possible. Its nearly 1.5mm from touching the hood and the exhaust side is open to the outside air. This should definitely help to get the hot air out of the bay! Wastegate is 2mm from the frame sitting perfectly behind the flange. Ill post a pic on final assembly.


FMIC came in and looks rather thin. Greddy M-spec knock-off, only 2.5" thickness.


Do you guys think this will be sufficient for 18-20psi of boost if 1000cc of water/meth is being sprayed? Or should I send this back and buy a 3"?
Attached Thumbnails Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-20b8-202.jpg   Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-20b8-20.jpg   Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-20b-203.jpg  
Old 08-27-14, 12:06 AM
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Update:

Fuel hanger assembled/installed and -8AN Feed line ran to firewall. The pumps are wired for a staged system. The second pump is triggered off the methanol boost sensor. When the methanol/water kicks in at 10psi the second fuel pump will engage. If this works as planned, this should take alot of work off of the alternator, keep fuel pressure in check, and keep from warming the fuel.

Returned the intercooler and finally found a 3" greddy style fmic, waiting on its arrival to begin intercooler/charge pipes.
Attached Thumbnails Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion-fuel-hanger.jpg  
Old 08-31-14, 10:27 AM
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Update:

Very busy with my day job, but still managing to make decent progress. Fuel system completed last night.

-8 line from Tank to Engine Bay. Placed the Russell 40 micron filter in the engine bay for easy access. -8 line splits into two -6 lines at a Mr. Gasket Y-Block, which also holds the electronic pressure gauge sender. -6 lines feed into Vibrant fittings on the front of the rails and return back to the regulator which is mounted in front of the shock tower. Will post pics when weather clears!


Next step is to pressure test the system on each pump and install the now completed wiring harness.
Old 09-04-14, 08:11 AM
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Finished the fuel system and pressure tested it yesterday. Primary KG Parts Rail shooting fuel EVERYWHERE around the top injector bores. Apparently larger O-rings are required, going to try larger O-rings tonight.

Onto installing wiring harness and ignition coils

The To-Do list is now getting smaller:

-fab downpipe
-fab intercooler piping (arrives today)
-fab coil bracket
-modify oil filler neck
-fab radiator filler neck and rad mounts
-start it up and drive it!
Old 09-04-14, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Monsterbox
Update:

Very busy with my day job, but still managing to make decent progress. Fuel system completed last night.

-8 line from Tank to Engine Bay. Placed the Russell 40 micron filter in the engine bay for easy access. -8 line splits into two -6 lines at a Mr. Gasket Y-Block, which also holds the electronic pressure gauge sender. -6 lines feed into Vibrant fittings on the front of the rails and return back to the regulator which is mounted in front of the shock tower. Will post pics when weather clears!


Next step is to pressure test the system on each pump and install the now completed wiring harness.
Intersting enough I just finished up my fuel system last night its time consuming stuff when replacing everything. I went with -8 feed and -8 return line. I did used dual 416 walbros with a 10 micron fuel filter instead. But im running E85 on my rx-7 its just a little 13b though
Old 09-04-14, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Samito Built
Intersting enough I just finished up my fuel system last night its time consuming stuff when replacing everything. I went with -8 feed and -8 return line. I did used dual 416 walbros with a 10 micron fuel filter instead. But im running E85 on my rx-7 its just a little 13b though
Wow, thats alot of fuel too!

Are you going to run staged pumps?

Yea its definitely time consuming assembling the hose ends.
Old 09-04-14, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Monsterbox
Wow, thats alot of fuel too!

Are you going to run staged pumps?

Yea its definitely time consuming assembling the hose ends.
No, I wasnt planning to stage the fuel pumps but I must say your idea is not to bad. But E85 does have good cooling effects on our motors but will try this setup first and see how it works. Ethanol is so much different....
Old 09-04-14, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Samito Built
No, I wasnt planning to stage the fuel pumps but I must say your idea is not to bad. But E85 does have good cooling effects on our motors but will try this setup first and see how it works. Ethanol is so much different....
I have a few more concerns in addition to heat (which may not be an issue w/ e85)

- Two pumps running full time at idle/low load may overwhelm your FPR. I've read many threads in the Supra Forums where two Walbro 400LPH overflowed the standard A1000 Aeromotive FPR's ORB -6 return port. Alot of these guys had to bore out the return port inner hole. Otherwise, base pressure would bottom out at 60+psi


-Two pumps full time may eliminate the signs of failure of one pump. If one pump fails you may not notice any change in AFR, Fuel Press, etc until you hit boost. However, in a series, the pump that would most likely fail would be the 1 primary pump used at idle/low loads as its seeing the most time. If this primary pump gives out, at least the car will die and you'll know it.


Curious to see your setup. Do you have a build thread?


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