Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion
02-27-15, 08:14 AM
#427
With push-loc's, you have more strength "pulling" the hose on. Find something sturdy so you can put your stomach against and the fitting on the opposite end of that object. I then grab the hose about 3" above the fitting and start pulling it on. No heat gun, no oil, just pure strength. Now 90 degree fittings will always be a bitch.
02-27-15, 04:48 PM
#428
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,770
Received 2,562 Likes
on
1,822 Posts
i don't like S2k's, but that one is nice.
02-28-15, 07:42 PM
#429
Thanks!
Drove it for 2 hrs today, 65f ambient.
Coolant temps rock solid 160-175 without fans cruising. 185 at lights with fans! Tremendous improvement.
Fuel cooler wasnt even warm to touch, and fuel pressure isnt dropping.
Safe to say problem is solved
Drove it for 2 hrs today, 65f ambient.
Coolant temps rock solid 160-175 without fans cruising. 185 at lights with fans! Tremendous improvement.
Fuel cooler wasnt even warm to touch, and fuel pressure isnt dropping.
Safe to say problem is solved
03-01-15, 01:30 PM
#432
^Yea it sucks doing multiple mods at once and not knowing exactly what fixed your problem. I was having similar hard hot starting issues when I had my external Bosch 044 pulling fuel from my fuel reservoir. It was making the exact same noises as yours after driving for a while. I removed the Bosch and just use the intank pump. Starting got a little better but still lugged. Turns out my problem has always been poor battery terminal connection with my positive lead causing my starter to not get full cranking amps while warm. SMDH!
03-02-15, 10:03 AM
#434
Seems to be working great. Forgot to add, I removed the fuel pump socks in the tank to rule out restriction. The pump sounds alot cleaner/quieter with a high pitched whistle now as if its spinning faster. Need to drive it longer than 1-2hrs, going to go out and heatsoak it this week and confirm!
03-02-15, 10:05 AM
#435
^Yea it sucks doing multiple mods at once and not knowing exactly what fixed your problem. I was having similar hard hot starting issues when I had my external Bosch 044 pulling fuel from my fuel reservoir. It was making the exact same noises as yours after driving for a while. I removed the Bosch and just use the intank pump. Starting got a little better but still lugged. Turns out my problem has always been poor battery terminal connection with my positive lead causing my starter to not get full cranking amps while warm. SMDH!
That must have been frustrating when you found out the battery issue
03-02-15, 02:33 PM
#437
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,770
Received 2,562 Likes
on
1,822 Posts
i am impressed by how well your headlight lids are lined up. i know its a small thing, but it shows attention to detail.
03-02-15, 10:13 PM
#439
Full Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Montreal
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Did you go with the scoot hood for heat dissipation or because you actually like it on the car? Did you go with 8AN lines for the feed and return line for your fuel?
My car is very close to your except 99 platless bumper and stock 93 wing no sunroof. The rest is the same even the rollcage and seats (mine are black) I even have 2 Gage's on the A pilar and finally mine is a 3 rotor single turbo... But your paint seems much cleaner!
My car is very close to your except 99 platless bumper and stock 93 wing no sunroof. The rest is the same even the rollcage and seats (mine are black) I even have 2 Gage's on the A pilar and finally mine is a 3 rotor single turbo... But your paint seems much cleaner!
03-02-15, 11:26 PM
#440
Did you go with the scoot hood for heat dissipation or because you actually like it on the car? Did you go with 8AN lines for the feed and return line for your fuel?
My car is very close to your except 99 platless bumper and stock 93 wing no sunroof. The rest is the same even the rollcage and seats (mine are black) I even have 2 Gage's on the A pilar and finally mine is a 3 rotor single turbo... But your paint seems much cleaner!
My car is very close to your except 99 platless bumper and stock 93 wing no sunroof. The rest is the same even the rollcage and seats (mine are black) I even have 2 Gage's on the A pilar and finally mine is a 3 rotor single turbo... But your paint seems much cleaner!
Fuel line is -8 to 2x -6 to rails and back to regulator, then -6 return
That's really cool. Post some pics in here and tell us more about the setup. What kinda power is it making? How did you like the build process? What ecu are you running?
03-03-15, 02:54 AM
#441
Full Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Montreal
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Now I have the UIM off to drop in 2200CC EV14 Bosh secondary injectors to bring up the boost. Hoping to test it around 22 -24 psi
My setup is street port with oil modifications from pineapple racing with a single turbo from Turbonetics GTK 850 HPC series with a 0.96 A/R and 4 inch downpipe 550 primary and 1000cc secondary with twin Bosh 044 6AN in parallel everywhere with dual oil coolers in parallel 25 row. ECU Microtech ltx12s, M&W ignition and MSD SS coil blasters. Built transmission by liberty, driveshaft shop driveshaft, Hybrid ATS diff with chromoly axels. On a claimed derated by at least 20% dyno, it did 481 HP at 17 psi (which is apparently 577 HP) I did put the claims to the test and they stand to be real. That's the maximum we tried. At the time I had ignition breakup because I was running 100% methanol AS AI and I didn't have the ignition box.
Andrew
03-03-15, 10:43 PM
#442
Attachment 554181
Now I have the UIM off to drop in 2200CC EV14 Bosh secondary injectors to bring up the boost. Hoping to test it around 22 -24 psi
My setup is street port with oil modifications from pineapple racing with a single turbo from Turbonetics GTK 850 HPC series with a 0.96 A/R and 4 inch downpipe 550 primary and 1000cc secondary with twin Bosh 044 6AN in parallel everywhere with dual oil coolers in parallel 25 row. ECU Microtech ltx12s, M&W ignition and MSD SS coil blasters. Built transmission by liberty, driveshaft shop driveshaft, Hybrid ATS diff with chromoly axels. On a claimed derated by at least 20% dyno, it did 481 HP at 17 psi (which is apparently 577 HP) I did put the claims to the test and they stand to be real. That's the maximum we tried. At the time I had ignition breakup because I was running 100% methanol AS AI and I didn't have the ignition box.
Andrew
Now I have the UIM off to drop in 2200CC EV14 Bosh secondary injectors to bring up the boost. Hoping to test it around 22 -24 psi
My setup is street port with oil modifications from pineapple racing with a single turbo from Turbonetics GTK 850 HPC series with a 0.96 A/R and 4 inch downpipe 550 primary and 1000cc secondary with twin Bosh 044 6AN in parallel everywhere with dual oil coolers in parallel 25 row. ECU Microtech ltx12s, M&W ignition and MSD SS coil blasters. Built transmission by liberty, driveshaft shop driveshaft, Hybrid ATS diff with chromoly axels. On a claimed derated by at least 20% dyno, it did 481 HP at 17 psi (which is apparently 577 HP) I did put the claims to the test and they stand to be real. That's the maximum we tried. At the time I had ignition breakup because I was running 100% methanol AS AI and I didn't have the ignition box.
Andrew
Hats off to you man. That's a hell of a well rounded setup! Making me have to step up the game on the trans and rear!
03-03-15, 10:50 PM
#443
Update:
Drove the car again 2.5 hrs last night, no issues with the fuel cavitation. Starts right up immediately after shut down.
Tune is scheduled for next Friday! Location is about 4 hrs away. Thought about trailering the car, but just going to drive it. If it can't make a 4hr trip, then it has no business being on a dyno. Not going to say who yet, lets wait and see how it goes
We're hopeful to reach between 15-18psi. Later down the road it can always move up.
Time to fix a few small leaks here and there, get an alignment, double check all connections, change plugs, oil etc, and we'll see how it goes!
Tune is scheduled for next Friday! Location is about 4 hrs away. Thought about trailering the car, but just going to drive it. If it can't make a 4hr trip, then it has no business being on a dyno. Not going to say who yet, lets wait and see how it goes
We're hopeful to reach between 15-18psi. Later down the road it can always move up.Time to fix a few small leaks here and there, get an alignment, double check all connections, change plugs, oil etc, and we'll see how it goes!
03-04-15, 12:37 AM
#444
Drove the car again 2.5 hrs last night, no issues with the fuel cavitation. Starts right up immediately after shut down. Tune is scheduled for next Friday! Location is about 4 hrs away. Thought about trailering the car, but just going to drive it. If it can't make a 4hr trip, then it has no business being on a dyno. Not going to say who yet, lets wait and see how it goes We're hopeful to reach between 15-18psi. Later down the road it can always move up. Time to fix a few small leaks here and there, get an alignment, double check all connections, change plugs, oil etc, and we'll see how it goes!
We're hopeful to reach between 15-18psi. Later down the road it can always move up. Time to fix a few small leaks here and there, get an alignment, double check all connections, change plugs, oil etc, and we'll see how it goes!
03-04-15, 12:23 PM
#445
Looking for a solution to straight-line traction on these 17x9" wheels.
Looks like the Maxxis RC-1 could be an option in 255/40 side-wall. Any thoughts? Or drag radial?
Any of you guys going to be attending DGRR or Import Alliance? Would be really cool to meet up!
Looks like the Maxxis RC-1 could be an option in 255/40 side-wall. Any thoughts? Or drag radial?
Any of you guys going to be attending DGRR or Import Alliance? Would be really cool to meet up!
03-04-15, 01:03 PM
#446
Drove the car again 2.5 hrs last night, no issues with the fuel cavitation. Starts right up immediately after shut down.
Tune is scheduled for next Friday! Location is about 4 hrs away. Thought about trailering the car, but just going to drive it. If it can't make a 4hr trip, then it has no business being on a dyno. Not going to say who yet, lets wait and see how it goes We're hopeful to reach between 15-18psi. Later down the road it can always move up.
Time to fix a few small leaks here and there, get an alignment, double check all connections, change plugs, oil etc, and we'll see how it goes!
Tune is scheduled for next Friday! Location is about 4 hrs away. Thought about trailering the car, but just going to drive it. If it can't make a 4hr trip, then it has no business being on a dyno. Not going to say who yet, lets wait and see how it goes
We're hopeful to reach between 15-18psi. Later down the road it can always move up.Time to fix a few small leaks here and there, get an alignment, double check all connections, change plugs, oil etc, and we'll see how it goes!
Is it Ray?
03-05-15, 08:35 AM
#447
03-05-15, 10:38 AM
#448
I have always just loved your build. Beautiful car.
As you know, perhaps due to my advanced years, I did not go the turbo route. However, as regards space and ducting for air, Logan has done some interesting things that you may know about or have thought of already, but I thought I'd toss it in here. He put either the radiator or IC behind the engine down low and at an angle. He put some ducting down there to scoop air from the high pressure under the car. He tried this first on his 3 rotor and uses it now on his 4 rotor, where space is as much an issue due to the length despite not having a turbo to deal with. I'd guess you'd need some venting in the back of the hood near the windshield. However, this setup allows you to have only one or the other up front and not worry about one or the other not getting cool air.
G
As you know, perhaps due to my advanced years, I did not go the turbo route. However, as regards space and ducting for air, Logan has done some interesting things that you may know about or have thought of already, but I thought I'd toss it in here. He put either the radiator or IC behind the engine down low and at an angle. He put some ducting down there to scoop air from the high pressure under the car. He tried this first on his 3 rotor and uses it now on his 4 rotor, where space is as much an issue due to the length despite not having a turbo to deal with. I'd guess you'd need some venting in the back of the hood near the windshield. However, this setup allows you to have only one or the other up front and not worry about one or the other not getting cool air.
G
I cant imagine where he would have room to stick a rad or ic behind the engine? Do you know a link to any pics? Sounds like same concept as trunk mounted or rear bumper. The KMR RX8 runs a tunk mounted radiator which i assume works great for them.
I like the simplicity of your 3 rotor setup. After feeling off boost torque of this engine, there's not even a need for a turbo lol
03-05-15, 10:40 AM
#449
Ill definitely be at IA saturday/sunday!
Im not sure yet if ill be able to make DGRR, depends on if I can find a trailer. Im weary about hill climbing / water temps.
Hopefully we can meet up and discuss rotary nonsense
