Monsterbox's 20b FD3S Conversion
11-20-14, 09:38 AM
#226
Would an EGR blockoff plate leak cause a vaccuum leak that could lead to the red runners / inconsistent idle?
I sealed my block off plate with "The Right Stuff", but there's a chance that it could be leaking as I didn't wait very long between sealing it and starting the engine the first time.
Also, last night I tried to fire it up and ended up flooding it in the cold weather with too much starter fluid. I noticed that fluid leaking from under throttle body, turns out there's a small nipple underneith that I didnt have capped off, this is probably a contributor.
Good News:
Did have 6 bright spark outputs on the light from each wire, and each was at the correct time along the Marked Pulley at 0, 120, and 240 (all respective from -5 mark). Trailing split was set to 5* so trailing was exactly 5 degrees retarded behind the leading marks.
I sealed my block off plate with "The Right Stuff", but there's a chance that it could be leaking as I didn't wait very long between sealing it and starting the engine the first time.
Also, last night I tried to fire it up and ended up flooding it in the cold weather with too much starter fluid. I noticed that fluid leaking from under throttle body, turns out there's a small nipple underneith that I didnt have capped off, this is probably a contributor.
Good News:
Did have 6 bright spark outputs on the light from each wire, and each was at the correct time along the Marked Pulley at 0, 120, and 240 (all respective from -5 mark). Trailing split was set to 5* so trailing was exactly 5 degrees retarded behind the leading marks.
11-20-14, 10:41 AM
#229
The circle with the diaphragm (that should have been removed) leads to the rectangular passages, no direct path to the intake. Small opening goes to the split air pipe, which can be left open once the block off plate is installed. There are two small openings that run to the primary runner of the rear rotor. No opportunity for a leak to the middle rotor.
Are you using factory LIM gaskets? I had a terrible time with the "space age" plastic material gaskets deforming nearly immediately.
Are you using factory LIM gaskets? I had a terrible time with the "space age" plastic material gaskets deforming nearly immediately.
11-20-14, 11:12 AM
#230
The circle with the diaphragm (that should have been removed) leads to the rectangular passages, no direct path to the intake. Small opening goes to the split air pipe, which can be left open once the block off plate is installed. There are two small openings that run to the primary runner of the rear rotor. No opportunity for a leak to the middle rotor.
Are you using factory LIM gaskets? I had a terrible time with the "space age" plastic material gaskets deforming nearly immediately.
Are you using factory LIM gaskets? I had a terrible time with the "space age" plastic material gaskets deforming nearly immediately.
I'm using factory blue paper mazda gasket, came in an OEM plastic wrap with jap letters (maybe its plastic but it looks like paper).
looks like this
11-20-14, 05:14 PM
#234
talking head
yes you do .. your drop in CAS position is different by 1 tooth to the guy that you stole the setup numbers from
if it is an FD fixed CAS.. THEN you have a problem
if it is an FD fixed CAS.. THEN you have a problem
11-20-14, 07:32 PM
#235
talking head
PS
for idle quality these engines like a 15 split
for mild engines , i find a cranking starting at 5 BTDC leading
and an idle map of 10 BTDC leading and 5 ATDC trailing will have the best quality idle and most responsive off idle
if the engine is cold you can add up to 5 degrees to that, backing it down to 10 BTDC again by the time the engine has made 60 C coolant temps
for idle quality these engines like a 15 split
for mild engines , i find a cranking starting at 5 BTDC leading
and an idle map of 10 BTDC leading and 5 ATDC trailing will have the best quality idle and most responsive off idle
if the engine is cold you can add up to 5 degrees to that, backing it down to 10 BTDC again by the time the engine has made 60 C coolant temps
Last edited by bumpstart; 11-20-14 at 07:35 PM. Reason: expolated
11-21-14, 07:05 AM
#236
Got it to start on its own 3x yesterday.
Ran it around 2k rpms for around 5 mins and shut it down from rough running. From video is sounds like a few plugs are not firing from being fouled. Pulled the plugs and sure enough BLACK. I assume its still assembly lube burning off as there's tons of smoke exiting the exhaust. The rpms want to hunt a little which is likely mixture.
I will post a video shortly. Its getting really close now!
Ran it around 2k rpms for around 5 mins and shut it down from rough running. From video is sounds like a few plugs are not firing from being fouled. Pulled the plugs and sure enough BLACK. I assume its still assembly lube burning off as there's tons of smoke exiting the exhaust. The rpms want to hunt a little which is likely mixture.
I will post a video shortly. Its getting really close now!
11-21-14, 08:45 AM
#237
Assembly lube burns off in a couple minutes of running, which you have done multiple times, so that is not the answer to your latest problem.
Do you have an oil catch can or any way for the crank case pressure to vent?
Do you have an oil catch can or any way for the crank case pressure to vent?
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 11-21-14 at 08:47 AM.
11-21-14, 08:48 AM
#238
Here's the video if you guys would please take a look
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Fct...ature=youtu.be
As you can see, the RPM's are stable around 2.5k, but anything under 2k it would start getting really rough. I'm thinking its just fouled out plugs again. No matter how long this thing runs, I pull the plugs and they are super fouled!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Fct...ature=youtu.be
As you can see, the RPM's are stable around 2.5k, but anything under 2k it would start getting really rough. I'm thinking its just fouled out plugs again. No matter how long this thing runs, I pull the plugs and they are super fouled!
11-21-14, 08:50 AM
#239
I do not have my catch can connected at the time, I just have the port out of the iron next to the filler neck unplugged and vented to atmosphere. I will run that to my can when I install it. I didn't think I would need vacuum on the can as my last motor I ran it pretty much the same way.
11-21-14, 09:06 AM
#240
That is not enough, throw everything you did with your 13b-rew out the window. I run a -8 AN line from my filler neck to the oil catch can.
Remove the oil filler cap and allow the neck to vent to the atmosphere, see if that reduces the smoke and blow-by. If this does not reduce the smoke then it is dumping way to much fuel, unburnt fuel will leave a black oily residue, which will eventually build up to black carbon deposits that you see on plugs that are run too rich for too long.
How old is the fuel? How much premix?
Remove the oil filler cap and allow the neck to vent to the atmosphere, see if that reduces the smoke and blow-by. If this does not reduce the smoke then it is dumping way to much fuel, unburnt fuel will leave a black oily residue, which will eventually build up to black carbon deposits that you see on plugs that are run too rich for too long.
How old is the fuel? How much premix?
11-21-14, 09:39 AM
#242
That is not enough, throw everything you did with your 13b-rew out the window. I run a -8 AN line from my filler neck to the oil catch can.
Remove the oil filler cap and allow the neck to vent to the atmosphere, see if that reduces the smoke and blow-by. If this does not reduce the smoke then it is dumping way to much fuel, unburnt fuel will leave a black oily residue, which will eventually build up to black carbon deposits that you see on plugs that are run too rich for too long.
How old is the fuel? How much premix?
Remove the oil filler cap and allow the neck to vent to the atmosphere, see if that reduces the smoke and blow-by. If this does not reduce the smoke then it is dumping way to much fuel, unburnt fuel will leave a black oily residue, which will eventually build up to black carbon deposits that you see on plugs that are run too rich for too long.
How old is the fuel? How much premix?
Fuel is around 4mos old. There's about 7 gal in the tank, and I recently added 2.5 gal fresh 93.
My o2 sensor is potentially fouled, however it is rather new. I see around a 4 sec delay between fuel changes and AFR on gauge. Its likely its running too rich and showing leaner. Keep in mind these are 850cc, so it may contribute to less than ideal spray pattern and richer mixture. The plugs in the video are 5820 10's, not the best for the moment but cheap
Also, the timing @ the video is ~30-35* at that RPM and Pressure, I want to get it down to lower RPM Idle area with less timing see how it sounds. Probably much smoother/less popping
As of now here's what I'm gong to try:
1. Replace plugs
2. Remove filler cap
3. Check timing again
4. Adjust the air-bypass valve a few turn out and crank it up
5. Focus on trying to get it to settle in around 1200-1500rpm and run all the way up to temp
11-21-14, 09:54 AM
#244
For a reference point: I run low impedance 850cc primaries, no issues with a clean 800 rpm idle @ 13.1:0 AFR, pulling 17-18" vacuum
Where are you pulling your vacuum signals from?
Do the boost gauge and ECU match?
Is the fuel pressure dropping from the 43psi base when idling?
Where are you pulling your vacuum signals from?
Do the boost gauge and ECU match?
Is the fuel pressure dropping from the 43psi base when idling?
11-21-14, 09:59 AM
#245
talking head
43 static.. ie ...no idle vacuum ?
i think you may need to put a gauge on things at least while you are setting up
im thinking two walbros is far too much
until you have boost and so one should be setup to be switched by an aux out
it may be pushing the reg open , and or it may be boiling up the fuel , and a log.. or at least a temporary gauge will be handy
at idle it should be 43psi minus the idle vac
a good mild port vacuum at 1000 revs will be about 17 inch Hg.. or about -8 psi
with 850? injectors i would expect injector time to be not more than 1.8 ms at idle ( warmed )
edit.. oops ditto .. haha
i think you may need to put a gauge on things at least while you are setting up
im thinking two walbros is far too much
until you have boost and so one should be setup to be switched by an aux out
it may be pushing the reg open , and or it may be boiling up the fuel , and a log.. or at least a temporary gauge will be handy
at idle it should be 43psi minus the idle vac
a good mild port vacuum at 1000 revs will be about 17 inch Hg.. or about -8 psi
with 850? injectors i would expect injector time to be not more than 1.8 ms at idle ( warmed )
edit.. oops ditto .. haha
11-21-14, 10:19 AM
#246
I have electronic gauge in dash and mechanical gauge on the FPR. Only 1 walbro is active, the 2nd comes on at 10psi. Vac line is connected to FRP. I have it set at 43psi before running.
Defi gauge vacuum line ran to back of intake manifold for vacuum/boost.
I'm seeing around -12 to -13 in/hg at 2k rpm. However, now that you mention it, looking a the log I see at 2100rpm 67kpa of vacuum.
67kpa, or 100-67 kpa = 33kpa = -9.7 in/hg
I am giving it throttle though at this RPM to keep it up there, TPS % shows 2% however, not much
Defi gauge vacuum line ran to back of intake manifold for vacuum/boost.
I'm seeing around -12 to -13 in/hg at 2k rpm. However, now that you mention it, looking a the log I see at 2100rpm 67kpa of vacuum.
67kpa, or 100-67 kpa = 33kpa = -9.7 in/hg
I am giving it throttle though at this RPM to keep it up there, TPS % shows 2% however, not much
11-21-14, 10:36 AM
#247
Your boost gauge signal is not coming from a clean source or the line is pinched/cracked/leaking.
67kpa = 19.79 in/hg which is what I would expect to see at that RPM, not 12
This would also mean your fuel pressure should be down near 33-34psi
67kpa = 19.79 in/hg which is what I would expect to see at that RPM, not 12
This would also mean your fuel pressure should be down near 33-34psi
11-21-14, 10:57 AM
#248
So 67kpa absolute pressure is actually 100 (atmosphere) - 67 (pressure seen) = 33kpa vacuum = 9.7 inches
I will check the fuel pressure again at make sure its in the right range. I think the car is just misfiring from super fouled plugs and too much fuel or timing or whatever, this is causing the low vacuum.
It should be down around 40kpa and if we can get it down around 40kpa it should lean itself out
If I tip into the throttle the response is awful feels like exactly like a piston motor with a bad plug. So its definitely not firing on all 6 in the video.