thafox

ok i know there are a few threads bout this but i just wanted 2 know a few more things such as which might be the easier route, either cpracing, or doing the fc se front hub's or somethin like that, also what's the smallest wheel size/backspacing do i need when i upgrade, and can someone hook it up with the website where it had that one writeup on doin it the se hub's way, thnx guy's an sorry for not searchin if these ?'s were already answered

TO4E-SE

hope this might help
http://www.mazspeed.com/4pistonbrakeconversion.htm

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I used CP Racing's Kit, and upgraded to TII (5 Lug) rotors on my SE.
I had to Use a 1" spacer to fit Convertible (5 Lug) wheels with tires that
are 205-15

thafox

thnx man that was the site i was lookin 4

stilettoman

iTrader: (1)

There is no question that the 2nd gen 4 piston aluminum calipers are of very high quality, and in my opinion, you will not get anything better unless you buy something VERY EXPENSIVE. I can confirm what Directfreak is saying. I did my own conversion, with parts made by my machinist, and we had to use a 1 1/4 inch spacer to fit the BBS alloys from a 1990 convertible. The spacer is shown in the attachment.

We also converted the rear brake calipers and rotors, but no spacer was required. I am running 205/50 in the front and 225/50 in the rear. More details are shown at:

www.cardomain.com/ride/646433

jayroc

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the 4pot system to work with 4 lug rotors without redrilling the TII/GXL 5lug ones..

EL5Letra

does anyone make a big brake kit that will just bolt on. i dont wana convert to 5 lug liek direct freak...but very soon i will be puting down serious numbers and the stcok brakes aren't really that impressive.if not then imma have to convert to 5lug..

RotaryRevn

check with Guru Racing in Australia, I believe they have a kit although it doesn't show on their website.

RX7145

iTrader: (1)

7's Only also has a kit.;-)

skrewloose78

how did you do the rear end?

TO4E-SE

ALEX whats up buddy. havent spoken to you in a year or so how have you been?
so you got the CP kit installed already when can we see some pictures ?

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Been alright. In the middle of a move (moving houses). I'll post pics up in a month or so. The car is at Cris's right now.

stilettoman

iTrader: (1)

"how did you do the rear end?"

Did you look at my CarDomain Page???????????? If you did, and still can't figure it out, we did the following:

1. Leave one side intact and build one side at a time, so you can keep going back to the original for comparison. Measure the radial clearance between the edge of the rotor and the inside of the caliper.

2. Redrill the rear axles for the 5 by 4 1/2 bolt pattern and install suitable studs. Anyone who does narrowed rear ends for drag racers knows how to do this and should have the equipment. Bolt the axle in place.

3. Install the 2nd gen rotors. Put the 2nd gen calipers in place and make a pattern for the caliper adapter. As I recall, a piece of 3/8 inch plate is just the right thickness. Get an approximate fit, bolt to the ears on the axle housing and clamp the caliper in place. Adjust until you get the correct radial spacing and then mark and drill the caliper mount holes. This only works with a GSL or GSL-SE axle housing, i.e., disc brake rear end. (Of course you could build adapter pieces to do this on a drum brake rear end, but everything would be different, and we have not done the engineering for that.)

4. Install the calipers, bolt up solid.

5. Note that the 1st Gen park brake cable pulls forward, whereas the 2nd Gen cable pulls straight inboard. This is the hard part to deal with. We were able to make adapters that allowed the stock 1st gen cable to hook up.

6. The clevis and actuating lever assembly is made of two or three little pieces. We took that apart by drilling and grinding the welds, then reoriented the pieces and welded it back together as shown in the photos.

7. We extended the cable support bracket with a piece of heavy steel strap and welded as shown. There will be some trial and error, especially if you have not done a lot of fabrication. Start by loosening the adjuster at the handbrake lever to give some slack. This cable is just barely long enough.

Test the handbrake, and when everything is the way you want it, take it all apart and duplicate the pieces, but opposite hand of course.

This hand brake will not stop the car from 100 mph, but it works as well as the original, maybe a bit better just because of the larger diameter disc. The hydraulics work very well, with good balance front to rear, using the stock GSL master cylinder and booster.

woodonastick

iTrader: (1)

stilettoman your car is too sweet. and the kit that your machinist made looks really well crafted. maybe u can ask him to produce some more.

TO4E-SE

sounds good Alex . we should catch up on whats new.
and i see your leaving that mansion . wow i cant imagine your new house. i lost my cell and your#s maybe soon we can talk . ill see if i pass by chris's shop with miguel this week . ok alex good luck with the move . if you need a hand with the move just let me know ,my fee is a passenger ride in your beast hahaha.
later
Jose

thafox

man...thnx guys for everything but i still have one more ? what is the smallest wheel size i have 2 have also what kinda backspacing do i need so it wont rub or nething, thnx very much for your quick input

woodonastick

iTrader: (1)

do u have any pics? im planning on doing the same and im wondering how flush the vert wheel will sit.