OK13B

iTrader: (3)

So i am rebuilding my engine. And I pulled off my intake yesterday to find out that my 5th and 6th port sleeves have not been moving at all. The vacuum line was disconnected from the actuators and i didn't do it. Would there be any harm in just removing them and leaving the sleeves open all the time?

BlackWorksInc

The sleeves are designed to open up on the higher end of the motor's power band so I would assume that it would affect performance.

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

I know how it works. im just worried about if it would affect my idle or my power at lower RMPs. i am also going with a street port and headers since i am rebuilding anyways. do you think it would have a good or bad affect by removing them? I would think that more air more power but i know that this may not be the case.

hoang5659

iTrader: (14)

you will lose your torque down low. some argue that rotaries have very little torque to begin with so you wont be missing much. i would keep them. i think the rotaries need all the help they can get off the line.

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

ok but in keeping them i would have to replace the vacuum hoses and then figure out where they go. i would refere to the shop manual. but seeing as the gsl-se isn't really covered in the book. i was thinking just taking them out all together. but i do agree that rotaries have very low torque and would hate to lose what bit i have.

hoang5659

iTrader: (14)

there is a mod that you can try. i have recently changed over to a RB streetport exhaust and i lost the tube that comes from the cat to the from the air pump. there is a vacuum tube that connects to this which is fed back pressure which actuates the auxilary ports. i have been researching a mod that uses an rpm switch which actuates the auxilary ports. it doesnt seem too hard to do. i'll let you know when i get it done and you can decide if you want to try it. the link below will give you an idea of how to do it.

http://rotaryresurrection.com/1stgen...elec6port.html

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

ok i will check that out... i do not have any emissions system on my car as oklahoma does not do any state inspections i took it all off that could be why they haven't moved in a while.

AE8616v

On my vert i took them out and there was only a very slight difference in low end. There is a lot of info about this on a bunch of different ways to mod them in the 2nd gen section. If the actuators still work i would just keep them on though and get the pineapple sleeves.

Starfox07

Just take them out. You will make noticeable gains up top, with barely noticeable losses down low. I tried to run a feed right off my header to make them work, but there isn't enough pressure. I'm going to take them out this summer.

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

I yanked mine and never looked back. If they get stuck on closed, then you are just loosing power throughout the majority ofthe power band. Keep them open and you only loose power in the low 2K range. How many people punch the gas at that low of an rpm anyway?

drive_4_thrills

is there any photos you can post so i can see the auxiliary ports?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

I never use them 6port sleeves.

mikliska

You don't need the sleeves but having them in place and not working is robbing mid to high-end power! You can remove them entirely or go to Pineapple and add their sleeve insert which installs easily and doesn't require vacuum.

notice the proper pronoun usage: their (unknown to most forum users...annoying!)

Wrong: Their is no one here.
Wrong: Shelley wants to know if there busy.
Wrong: The dogs are happily chewing on they're bones.
RIGHT: I can't believe they're leaving their children there, alone!

Sorry. inappropriate but I've been aching to say something!

mikliska

I realized I missed a post or two before I replied and what you are about to read will most likely be corrected by another post but I'm dang sure I'm correct sometimes... maybe:

Your auxiliary ports are closed at idle through (here is where the correction will be applied) 2,000-2,500 R.P.M. at which point they begin to open under increased pressure from the air pump via the Air Control Valve.

Therefore, if the actuators are not working for whatever reason, and (assuming) they were left in the closed position before they quit (or stuck; which, if either were the case they probably would not be equal) would KILL upper end.

You could:

A) remove sleeves and block the split line (the one with banjo bolts) with a cap (just to keep out dirt and moisture) or block everything with epoxy (i've done both) and everything is fine and power output is adequate... above stock but lacking low-end.

B) ...and I don't recommend... same as above but epoxy a ramp in the "dead-end" of the aux. after removing the sleeves. (I've done this twice and you definitely need to install an anti-rotational device at the "dead-end" ) I used a set screw left @ 3/16" high and slightly off-center to prevent vibrations from rotating or easing the epoxy out (the set screw threads give the epoxy something to adhere to due to the already smooth surface of the aux. ports. Remember, if you drill and tap that "dead-end" face, drill stright and seal it well because it is thin and there is water behind it.

C)Go to Pineapple racing and buy their inserts.

D) If you don't want to keep your air pump but retain the actuators you can run a line from behind the collector of your header to that split line from your air-pump (can be tricky and actuators may "actuate" at the wrong R.P.M.

E)This, and the previous, isn't actually an option but a variation on options. It's tricky, but cool, but, also... not necessary: It is possible to convert the actuators from pressure to vacuum (if you want) to eliminate the air pump and not deal with the long pipe from the back side of the collector to provide pressure. I did it once but have had a nap since (and a drink or 7) so I don't remember exactly but if you have a spare vacuum solenoid and spare connector they can be connected to provide a computer controlled actuation (under vacuum) that works (but is not as smooth) to provide a not too noticable transition.

OK13B

iTrader: (3)

I have been thinking about it for a little bit now. and i have seen all those talked about except B. i have decided just to remove the sleeves and leave it open. i am going to block off where the actuators connect to the sleeves. i understand i will lose some low end power but i launch form 3k and when i take it to the track i almost never get below 3k so i don't think it will reall affect andthing. and i will have more power at higher rmps since they were not working. thank you everyone for your input i will let you know how every thing turns out

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

Report back once you do it and give us your opinion. Once you drink the cool-aid you won't look back!