Nikki Rebuild Kit Question
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Nikki Rebuild Kit Question
As a preface; I decided to keep the car, and rebuild the motor, so part of that was fixing the leaky carb.
I got a carb rebuild kit from carquest, and tore the Nikki down. I kept all the jets in the right places as well as the checkballs and weights. No problems there. My question is, I seem to have way way too many metallic o-ring/washers. I downloaded a Carburetor rebuild PDF for the Nikki and it doesn't show the use of nearly so many O-rings. Nor were they there when i took the carb apart (not the first person into the carb though, from what I'm seeing). Are the O-rings just for early/later models of carb or am I missing something?
Also, the litle gaskets made of rubber that sit inside the body of the carb, sealing the glass float windows aren't included, and the new outer gaskets have to be trimmed to fit the glass retainer bits. So if you get this kit, don't toss your old ones!
I got a carb rebuild kit from carquest, and tore the Nikki down. I kept all the jets in the right places as well as the checkballs and weights. No problems there. My question is, I seem to have way way too many metallic o-ring/washers. I downloaded a Carburetor rebuild PDF for the Nikki and it doesn't show the use of nearly so many O-rings. Nor were they there when i took the carb apart (not the first person into the carb though, from what I'm seeing). Are the O-rings just for early/later models of carb or am I missing something?
Also, the litle gaskets made of rubber that sit inside the body of the carb, sealing the glass float windows aren't included, and the new outer gaskets have to be trimmed to fit the glass retainer bits. So if you get this kit, don't toss your old ones!
#2
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
The aftermarket kits are pretty terrible. I only use the top gasket, the accel pump diaphragm, the sight glass rubber o-rings, and must trim the glass gaskets.
The main body to baseplate gasket is junk and must be used as a template on a piece of thick paper.
All aftermarket seats are junk. DO NOT USE! But I am able to get ok results on aftermarket needles after I do a thorough job burnishing them on a spoon. They still need from 50 to 100 miles to really break in and not cause flooding. Only change these if your stock rubber tipped jets are hard and don't work anymore.
The main body to baseplate gasket is junk and must be used as a template on a piece of thick paper.
All aftermarket seats are junk. DO NOT USE! But I am able to get ok results on aftermarket needles after I do a thorough job burnishing them on a spoon. They still need from 50 to 100 miles to really break in and not cause flooding. Only change these if your stock rubber tipped jets are hard and don't work anymore.
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
Hah, now I find out! Oh well, this isn't my first carb rebuild, just my first of this complexity. I had a 2GC Rochester kit that had to have multiple gaskets trimmed to come even close. Surprisingly this one only needed the gaskets for the sights trimmed, otherwise it went together fine.
Now Something I' a bit confused about, it looks like there is a gasket GLUED to the plastic carb base? I figure a PO did this, but then i read about it being a permanent gasket from the factory? What is the truth? I have 2 new gaskets for the plastic base ready to go, but no reasonable wway to get the old ones off.
I'll see what goes on with the needles and seats. they looked pretty worn/stained so I replaced. The PO put a million footpounds on them when he installed them, without washers...ugh.
Oh I figured out the 'extra' o-rings were for the linkage and fuel systems, duh...
Thanks!
Now Something I' a bit confused about, it looks like there is a gasket GLUED to the plastic carb base? I figure a PO did this, but then i read about it being a permanent gasket from the factory? What is the truth? I have 2 new gaskets for the plastic base ready to go, but no reasonable wway to get the old ones off.
I'll see what goes on with the needles and seats. they looked pretty worn/stained so I replaced. The PO put a million footpounds on them when he installed them, without washers...ugh.
Oh I figured out the 'extra' o-rings were for the linkage and fuel systems, duh...
Thanks!
#5
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
Now Something I' a bit confused about, it looks like there is a gasket GLUED to the plastic carb base? I figure a PO did this, but then i read about it being a permanent gasket from the factory? What is the truth? I have 2 new gaskets for the plastic base ready to go, but no reasonable way to get the old ones off.