New to the Carbed RX7. Have a few questions.
12-22-14, 10:45 AM
#3
In this forum, 2nd post from the top Sticky: Download a copy of your year fsm!.....
Click on the link in the post.
In the First Generation section, under Other, you'll find the 1979-85 Carburator Manual.
Its in sections. You have an 82 so you want the 81-82 section. On pages 47-48 (page numbers) are the locations of the adjustments and the procedures.
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12-23-14, 12:42 PM
#10
Divin, you're coming from an SA perspective. I'd think that an FB, with its weird shudder valve causes a one rotor motor during decel (or is it the coasting valve? My 1st gen nomenclature is terrible as I've never had to deal with any of it. What's a hot start assist motor good for anyway? lol). The S4 NA does this too in PercentSevenC's red FB, which goes into one rotor mode during decel to help with emissions I guess, but it always freaks me out as the second rotor kicks back in and the engine smooths out at idle and gets really quiet. Makes me think the engine stalled every time. Oh and you don't really save gas mileage with EFI either because the factory tune was set very rich to keep the cats alive, which his car doesn't have. But when he borrowed my full RB long primary exhaust, the paint barely aged due to how cool the always-slightly-rich exhaust gasses are. j9fd3s said a slightly leaner tune gets you more HP which his car kinda needs.
So does the car really run smoother with a functional rat's nest? Well, the stock flywheels on these are pretty heavy by an enthusiast's standards. 30lbs, 23lbs, then finally 26lbs (but with lighter rotors) on each 1st gen series during their production runs. That's heavy enough to mask just about anything shy of a broken apex seal.
But does it run smoother with a functional rat's nest? Maybe, if everything is stock. Otherwise, get a light steel flywheel, delete rat's nest, take out the shudder valve and cut a new channel in the manifold, go direct fire, go long primary exhaust, rebuild the carb and strip off the complicated mess, hog out the primary venturis and do all the other recommended carb mods, and you'll have a 1st gen that can keep up with today's traffic. Have you seen some of the 200+HP grocery getters these days? It's crazy. With my mods list, you'll be as quick as all of them, and better than some.
So does the car really run smoother with a functional rat's nest? Well, the stock flywheels on these are pretty heavy by an enthusiast's standards. 30lbs, 23lbs, then finally 26lbs (but with lighter rotors) on each 1st gen series during their production runs. That's heavy enough to mask just about anything shy of a broken apex seal.
But does it run smoother with a functional rat's nest? Maybe, if everything is stock. Otherwise, get a light steel flywheel, delete rat's nest, take out the shudder valve and cut a new channel in the manifold, go direct fire, go long primary exhaust, rebuild the carb and strip off the complicated mess, hog out the primary venturis and do all the other recommended carb mods, and you'll have a 1st gen that can keep up with today's traffic. Have you seen some of the 200+HP grocery getters these days? It's crazy. With my mods list, you'll be as quick as all of them, and better than some.
12-23-14, 12:57 PM
#11
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12-25-14, 10:02 AM
#13
what do you mean by cut a new channel in the manifold?
Also when you say direct fire, are you talking about a MSD ignition or similar?
Thank you, I am trying to understand the things that will improve power without porting or getting so radical that the car becomes unreliable or requires continual attention.
Thanks again
Rich
Also when you say direct fire, are you talking about a MSD ignition or similar?
Thank you, I am trying to understand the things that will improve power without porting or getting so radical that the car becomes unreliable or requires continual attention.
Thanks again
Rich
12-25-14, 05:35 PM
#14
Simplest direct fire is to install a 2nd gen leading coil pack, used ones are about $25 and it takes about 20 minutes.
I agree with Jeff, the shutter valve system is best disabled, for the reasons he points out.
But if you want better performance and gas mileage, keep the rats nest. It makes the Nikki work much better, especially on short drives where warm up is an issue. Better gas mileage, fewer emissions, smoother throttle response.
On the other hand, if horsepower is the only issue and you don't mind rough idles, choppy throttle and less than 15 mpg, strip the nikki and kill another first gen that used to be in original (more valuable) condition.
I agree with Jeff, the shutter valve system is best disabled, for the reasons he points out.
But if you want better performance and gas mileage, keep the rats nest. It makes the Nikki work much better, especially on short drives where warm up is an issue. Better gas mileage, fewer emissions, smoother throttle response.
On the other hand, if horsepower is the only issue and you don't mind rough idles, choppy throttle and less than 15 mpg, strip the nikki and kill another first gen that used to be in original (more valuable) condition.
12-25-14, 07:30 PM
#15
carb whisperer
I never owned a nikki that did less than 17 mpg... (and none of mine have had rats nests)
I think the usual way of thinking that leads to pulling the rats nest is for simplicity. I know my first FB wouldnt have even run on its own had I kept the rats nest. My dad and I spend hundreds of man hours trying to troubleshoot it until we finally just chucked it. That was decades ago, and it still runs. Well. With a clean keg (original to boot) and no unnecessary emissions equipment.
I hardly think its actual value could be hurt much by removing it, but then again I dont care for anything from the 1980's that is "all original" in terms of performance, simplicity, efficiency, value, or even visual appeal.
Opinions, everyone has one.
12-26-14, 12:06 PM
#16
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I never owned a nikki that did less than 17 mpg... (and none of mine have had rats nests)
I think the usual way of thinking that leads to pulling the rats nest is for simplicity. I know my first FB wouldnt have even run on its own had I kept the rats nest. My dad and I spend hundreds of man hours trying to troubleshoot it until we finally just chucked it. That was decades ago, and it still runs. Well. With a clean keg (original to boot) and no unnecessary emissions equipment.
I hardly think its actual value could be hurt much by removing it, but then again I dont care for anything from the 1980's that is "all original" in terms of performance, simplicity, efficiency, value, or even visual appeal.
Opinions, everyone has one.
I never owned a nikki that did less than 17 mpg... (and none of mine have had rats nests)
I think the usual way of thinking that leads to pulling the rats nest is for simplicity. I know my first FB wouldnt have even run on its own had I kept the rats nest. My dad and I spend hundreds of man hours trying to troubleshoot it until we finally just chucked it. That was decades ago, and it still runs. Well. With a clean keg (original to boot) and no unnecessary emissions equipment.
I hardly think its actual value could be hurt much by removing it, but then again I dont care for anything from the 1980's that is "all original" in terms of performance, simplicity, efficiency, value, or even visual appeal.
Opinions, everyone has one.
12-26-14, 03:43 PM
#17
True enough J9, laws is laws, in this case opinions will just get you in trouble.
Just like with gas mileage, facts is facts. When I stripped my Nikki one summer, I started getting a reliable 16-17 mpg out on the highway.
(forget about it around town)
That's why I put the rats back in.
With my 110 mile daily commute in the fall, I needed to get back to the usual 22-23 mpg with the rats installed.
True enough, the car is simpler without the nest, and those rats can be a challenge to diagnose and maintain.
But a well kept rats nest is a thing of beauty in its own right. Just ask DD.
Just like with gas mileage, facts is facts. When I stripped my Nikki one summer, I started getting a reliable 16-17 mpg out on the highway.
(forget about it around town)
That's why I put the rats back in.
With my 110 mile daily commute in the fall, I needed to get back to the usual 22-23 mpg with the rats installed.
True enough, the car is simpler without the nest, and those rats can be a challenge to diagnose and maintain.
But a well kept rats nest is a thing of beauty in its own right. Just ask DD.
12-29-14, 01:10 PM
#19
Waffles - hmmm good
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My fat nikki gets 24 mpg all day long with no rats nest and its smooth as silk until you punch in
the secondaries. I think I did all the mods that you can do to the nikki and it was time and effort
well spent.
I feel for you guys in Kalifornia where the rats nest has to be retained.
the secondaries. I think I did all the mods that you can do to the nikki and it was time and effort
well spent.
I feel for you guys in Kalifornia where the rats nest has to be retained.
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