My exhaust is getting red,,, realy hot
03-20-09, 10:30 PM
#28
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Impossible to tune.
It didnīt tune so i start to look inside the carb wille it was running, move the accelerator by hand and notice that every time the engine crank different there was a lot of fuel comming out from here, red arrow.
I still didnīt see the cause, but any ideas for the reazon that it was droping fuel as a crazy?
So i take it out and here is some picts for you just to see how "clean"
this carb was.
This is a picture from the back level, engine stop
And this is the front one , more close to center after i play with it.
after i removed the carb, most of the one i have see in the forum are only open
in one side, this one is like you see, donīt know if is better or not.
Close shoot of the intake
How about porting at least the center ones? too much closed what do you think?
More pictures of my car here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3254885/3
It didnīt tune so i start to look inside the carb wille it was running, move the accelerator by hand and notice that every time the engine crank different there was a lot of fuel comming out from here, red arrow.
I still didnīt see the cause, but any ideas for the reazon that it was droping fuel as a crazy?
So i take it out and here is some picts for you just to see how "clean"
this carb was.
This is a picture from the back level, engine stop
And this is the front one , more close to center after i play with it.
after i removed the carb, most of the one i have see in the forum are only open
in one side, this one is like you see, donīt know if is better or not.
Close shoot of the intake
How about porting at least the center ones? too much closed what do you think?
More pictures of my car here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3254885/3
03-21-09, 08:16 PM
#30
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The level line should be on each side right on the mark ? that V that we see means is too high?
I think it should be one single horizontal line!
One more thing that i need to adjust is the "primary throttle valve initial opening angle" , as it is soo close that i almost canīt see the light pass, iīm going to try make it like manual says, 0,05mm (0,002 in ), still one side looks more open then the other.
03-21-09, 11:46 PM
#32
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About the primaries no, i was taking it apart so the coil was not there, thats the reason they are open on that photo.
Like i say in last post they were too close, i have set it at 002 in, it was a litle adjust but now the gap is there.
I check the 2 weigth and the 2 ballīs, all were in place
I have to made the gasket by hand, donīt know if it will work.
If anyone have suggestions about this rebuild, just put it out. most of this things are new for me.
03-22-09, 12:34 AM
#33
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By the way, the weigth one the acel pump is very small compared to the other one.
It is as large as the ball, if not less, and is like dacing because it is tinny.
Could this also cause dripping gas on the back primary at idle ?
It is as large as the ball, if not less, and is like dacing because it is tinny.
Could this also cause dripping gas on the back primary at idle ?
03-22-09, 07:42 AM
#35
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Some more wrong things in this carb.
The power valve (richer solenoid) was wrong, imagine that the pin was pointing inside the valve, and passing inside the litle coil.
So it was not blocking the air passage as it should do.
Sorry this question but iīm still learning, in what way this power valve afect the engine if placed wrong?
My imagination tell me that maybe is the cause of burn too much rich.
I have also open the glass window and play a litle up and down with the float place it again and it looks is stays lower, maybe not the same as the back one, but also not on top.
tomorrow i will try to ride it and see how it looks.
The power valve (richer solenoid) was wrong, imagine that the pin was pointing inside the valve, and passing inside the litle coil.
So it was not blocking the air passage as it should do.
Sorry this question but iīm still learning, in what way this power valve afect the engine if placed wrong?
My imagination tell me that maybe is the cause of burn too much rich.
I have also open the glass window and play a litle up and down with the float place it again and it looks is stays lower, maybe not the same as the back one, but also not on top.
tomorrow i will try to ride it and see how it looks.
The fuel bowls have to have a vent in order to work. Since the vent acting on the fuel bowls is much larger than the port from which the richer solenoid circuit can cause a vacuum leak, it is unclear at what engine RPM the throttle-body / manifold vacuum demand would over-power it and begin to effect the atmospheric pressure acting on the fuel in the bowls.
I suspect this could happen when the engine is revved beyond about 4000 RPM, but I'm not sure. If and when this occurs, it could cause a temporary flooding issue, but it should effect both floats evenly. When they return to normal, one may be hung up sometimes... But that part is all speculation.
However, the presence of the vacuum leak to the rear rotor is definite in this scenario. I have come across this when people strip the Nikki and do a good job of blocking all of the external ports, but fail to completely block all internal ports to the richer solenoid circuit.
The correct way to install the richer circuit components is to remove everything and install the solenoid first. then install the weight, cap screw & jet. Be sure the spring is inside the solenoid before the piston. You can also remove only the solenoid, simply flip the carburetor over so the weight falls toward the top, and screw the solenoid back in.
There is no check ball.
03-24-09, 10:36 PM
#36
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Some more pics.
It is a slow work because i donīt have much time, today i take out the
exhaust to clean some extra pipes inside, the suppose cat was strange because
there was only one pipe inside, it was not like actual cats, will post some pictures
later.
since it was out, i want it to be painted and clean.
i hoppe i did it correct
Something is telling me to clean also the engine
Exhaust output
It is a slow work because i donīt have much time, today i take out the
exhaust to clean some extra pipes inside, the suppose cat was strange because
there was only one pipe inside, it was not like actual cats, will post some pictures
later.
since it was out, i want it to be painted and clean.
i hoppe i did it correct
Something is telling me to clean also the engine
Exhaust output
03-24-09, 11:43 PM
#37
I suspect using a flat feeler gauge will give you too much initial opening... supposed to be set with a wire guage, so you are measuring the opening only at it's widest point.
I personally have never been able to find a small enough wire guage, so I use a dial indicator on a magnetic base, with the tip right against the top of the butterfly arc, which seems to work OK.
I personally have never been able to find a small enough wire guage, so I use a dial indicator on a magnetic base, with the tip right against the top of the butterfly arc, which seems to work OK.
03-25-09, 12:32 AM
#38
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How did you do it?
set it to 0 and than open till it goes inside that 2 marks?
I also have that dial indicator and the base, since the carb is still out i will check it later.
Tanks for the ideia
set it to 0 and than open till it goes inside that 2 marks?
I also have that dial indicator and the base, since the carb is still out i will check it later.
Tanks for the ideia
03-25-09, 09:37 AM
#39
I set the gauge tip against the side of the butterfly that comes 'out' from the bottom, loosened the carb adjusting screw so the butterfly was fully closed, zeroed the dial, and adjusted the screw until the dial gave the specified opening in thousandths. I think the US spec was less than 0.002", but don't remember exactly - - was several months ago.
Since I had the dial guage set at the same angle that the butterfly inititally moves in it's rotation (instead of straight up) and it was touching the very tip, there's no significant trigonometric error; valve motion equals opened distance. Motion on either side of the butterfly is symmetrical, so the opening distance is equal regardless of which side you measure.
It worked out well enough that the car started on the first turnover, and later, passed California smog tests.
Since I had the dial guage set at the same angle that the butterfly inititally moves in it's rotation (instead of straight up) and it was touching the very tip, there's no significant trigonometric error; valve motion equals opened distance. Motion on either side of the butterfly is symmetrical, so the opening distance is equal regardless of which side you measure.
It worked out well enough that the car started on the first turnover, and later, passed California smog tests.
03-31-09, 09:20 AM
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Finaly got it runing
this was the first try to run it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUfQw9lDLy0
And here idle at normal temp, after i change to electrical fun the temp meter is in
vertical, before it was lower.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1t_aOYIVyw
Still neet to go adjust the smog (co2) and full test it on the road, but for the moment is much better.
Tanks to everyone that replay and give ideias for this, and now my exhaust is not getting red anymore
this was the first try to run it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUfQw9lDLy0
And here idle at normal temp, after i change to electrical fun the temp meter is in
vertical, before it was lower.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1t_aOYIVyw
Still neet to go adjust the smog (co2) and full test it on the road, but for the moment is much better.
Tanks to everyone that replay and give ideias for this, and now my exhaust is not getting red anymore
03-31-09, 06:29 PM
#42
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Tanks DivinDriver, but the problems didnīt end yet.
The glow exhaust is no more, but the carb is still not ok.
now that i adjust the initial angle there is fuel coming from the 2 centers at the top, i go to check the CO2 make it run in acceptable level but notice that sometimes the CO2 go high, check the top of the carb and there it was, fuel droping like crazy again.
There is suppose to be a place were the air pass if the engine is at idle, because i didnīt have this main problem before i repair the breack hose that was conecting the crank venting.
Later iīm going to make it work as it was before, same vacuum in same place.
In general the car is must better, run better and donīt backfire laud as it was before if i rev over 4000 rpm and change gear, but still not that engine with 100hp looks more a 70hp or less, the fuel filter is new (the first thing that i was able to buy for this car here, and that is because there is some Hyundai that use it also).
I consider going EFI in short time, maybe Megasquirst
The glow exhaust is no more, but the carb is still not ok.
now that i adjust the initial angle there is fuel coming from the 2 centers at the top, i go to check the CO2 make it run in acceptable level but notice that sometimes the CO2 go high, check the top of the carb and there it was, fuel droping like crazy again.
There is suppose to be a place were the air pass if the engine is at idle, because i didnīt have this main problem before i repair the breack hose that was conecting the crank venting.
Later iīm going to make it work as it was before, same vacuum in same place.
In general the car is must better, run better and donīt backfire laud as it was before if i rev over 4000 rpm and change gear, but still not that engine with 100hp looks more a 70hp or less, the fuel filter is new (the first thing that i was able to buy for this car here, and that is because there is some Hyundai that use it also).
I consider going EFI in short time, maybe Megasquirst
03-31-09, 11:16 PM
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the time i was trying to adjust it on the co2 machine.
I notice one thing in this engine, donīt know if any of you have this setup.
There are 2 hoses connected to the crank, one comes from the filter, the other comes from a vacuum connection, right there under the carb, this vacuum
connection use to have one ball and one spring, this makes air pass only in
one direction, the spring still was there but the ball never find it, so i get one of
the same size to fit there.
So the function of this is to make the air coming from the air filter pass on the top of the crank removes any vapor oil etc and send it inside the engine, and this was a permanent air input that i have repair and later block it permanent, leaving only
one connection to the top of the air filter, iīm going to restore this.
But still no reason for the low power over 4000rpm, and a good reason for it to suc more air from the top of the cab making it drop some fuel
04-01-09, 10:49 AM
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The vacuum line you describe from the air box to the crank case, then case to intake check valve is the pcv system. Plumb it as you described. Either repair your valve with a new ball, or get a pcv valve for something else.
The dripping you get from the primaries is fuel being pumped past the bowl inlet valves. You don't want that dripping. Either the float is not closing the valves well enough, or the valve is toast. That is easy to inspect if you remove the top of the carb again.
Also confirm the fuel return line is free flowing. There is a check valve in-line as it heads back to the fire wall.
The dripping you get from the primaries is fuel being pumped past the bowl inlet valves. You don't want that dripping. Either the float is not closing the valves well enough, or the valve is toast. That is easy to inspect if you remove the top of the carb again.
Also confirm the fuel return line is free flowing. There is a check valve in-line as it heads back to the fire wall.
04-01-09, 07:07 PM
#46
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The vacuum line you describe from the air box to the crank case, then case to intake check valve is the pcv system. Plumb it as you described. Either repair your valve with a new ball, or get a pcv valve for something else.
For this i donīt have replace parts here, must try to order from outside, maybe UK, or i can use inline pcv valve from other engine
The dripping you get from the primaries is fuel being pumped past the bowl inlet valves. You don't want that dripping.
Yes this is the main problem
Either the float is not closing the valves well enough, or the valve is toast. That is easy to inspect if you remove the top of the carb again.
The levels suppose to be ok, if stop or at idle, i also check it before i put it in place, they look ok
Also confirm the fuel return line is free flowing. There is a check valve in-line as it heads back to the fire wall
Now, that iīm not shore, , on the fire wall i donīt have check valve, only 2 lines, in and out
.
For this i donīt have replace parts here, must try to order from outside, maybe UK, or i can use inline pcv valve from other engine
The dripping you get from the primaries is fuel being pumped past the bowl inlet valves. You don't want that dripping.
Yes this is the main problem
Either the float is not closing the valves well enough, or the valve is toast. That is easy to inspect if you remove the top of the carb again.
The levels suppose to be ok, if stop or at idle, i also check it before i put it in place, they look ok
Also confirm the fuel return line is free flowing. There is a check valve in-line as it heads back to the fire wall
Now, that iīm not shore, , on the fire wall i donīt have check valve, only 2 lines, in and out
.
At 3k RPM the CO2 is ok, so this must be related to PCV valve not working, making too much vacuum to pass from the primaries and suck fuel with it inside the engine.
If you see the first video it looks that it start very easy, but before that i have to crank the engine without spark plugs several times in order to have fuel on level,
i have also pump some compressed air to the tank because it was not coming only with the pump, i have replace the fuel filter so maybe the lines drain all fuel and it takes time to refull it.
Now, about the fuel pump, if we are cracking the engine, should not be a constant flow of fuel?
I notice that if i crank only for 1 second and stop the fuel coming from the line was the same quantitie as if 5 seconds of cranking, it this nornal?
03-20-13, 01:25 AM
#47
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Hello,
after many modifications my 12A end with some extra parts.
Megasquirt, CBR600RR ITBīs with air filter and 8 injectors, i have also made the Headers, and intake.
https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-f...my-12a-835786/
Some more fine tune to finish, but it runs every day.
Tanks to all that have help me.
The car is getting fun now.
after many modifications my 12A end with some extra parts.
Megasquirt, CBR600RR ITBīs with air filter and 8 injectors, i have also made the Headers, and intake.
https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-f...my-12a-835786/
Some more fine tune to finish, but it runs every day.
Tanks to all that have help me.
The car is getting fun now.
Last edited by RX-S7V7N; 03-20-13 at 01:29 AM. Reason: link correction
