Marvel Mystery Oil – Denny
08-14-01, 09:21 PM
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Marvel Mystery Oil – Denny
Denny,
We were trying to assist Gump with a smoking -SE problem, and Marvel Mystery Oil came up. Original Post was https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=14763 GSL-SE Smoke
Would MMO help reduce oil consumption? I had recalled one of your fine posts a while back about Marvel Mystery Oil. Can you enlighten us again about the "marvel and mystery" of Marvel Mystery Oil.
In advance we appreciate your guidance.
We were trying to assist Gump with a smoking -SE problem, and Marvel Mystery Oil came up. Original Post was https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=14763 GSL-SE Smoke
Would MMO help reduce oil consumption? I had recalled one of your fine posts a while back about Marvel Mystery Oil. Can you enlighten us again about the "marvel and mystery" of Marvel Mystery Oil.
In advance we appreciate your guidance.
08-14-01, 09:31 PM
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I'm not Denny, but I'll give your problem a shot. 
MMO was developed as a supercharger lubricant a while ago, so not only does it lubricate, but it burns cleanly. It thins out oil to some degree, so it may be wise to compensiate for adding it with a heavier weight oil. Because it thins the oil, I don't believe it will help with oil comsumption.
If the oil isn't leaking out to the driveway, then it's burning up in the engine. Either the OMP is outta wack, or most likely it's the oil seals going out.
Good luck on tracking the problem down.
A tip of the.... Oh.. Wait.. I don't wear hats all that often.
MMO was developed as a supercharger lubricant a while ago, so not only does it lubricate, but it burns cleanly. It thins out oil to some degree, so it may be wise to compensiate for adding it with a heavier weight oil. Because it thins the oil, I don't believe it will help with oil comsumption.
If the oil isn't leaking out to the driveway, then it's burning up in the engine. Either the OMP is outta wack, or most likely it's the oil seals going out.
Good luck on tracking the problem down.
A tip of the.... Oh.. Wait.. I don't wear hats all that often.
08-14-01, 09:38 PM
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What is OMP?
from previous message
"If the oil isn't leaking out to the driveway, then it's burning up in the engine. Either the OMP is outta wack, or most likely it's the oil seals going out. "
What is the OMP???
"If the oil isn't leaking out to the driveway, then it's burning up in the engine. Either the OMP is outta wack, or most likely it's the oil seals going out. "
What is the OMP???
08-14-01, 09:42 PM
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OMP = Oil Metering pump
It shoots a little oil into the intake when the engine is running. It's connected to the throttle so the faster you go, the more oil it adds. If the linkage is meesed up or outta adjustemnt, it may be adding the ammount of oil for full throttle when you're idling.
I doubt this is the case, however. Unfortunately, I believe your oil comsumption is due to leakage or oil seal failure.
It shoots a little oil into the intake when the engine is running. It's connected to the throttle so the faster you go, the more oil it adds. If the linkage is meesed up or outta adjustemnt, it may be adding the ammount of oil for full throttle when you're idling.
I doubt this is the case, however. Unfortunately, I believe your oil comsumption is due to leakage or oil seal failure.
08-14-01, 09:51 PM
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Originally posted by Pele
I doubt this is the case, however. Unfortunately, I believe your oil comsumption is due to leakage or oil seal failure.
I doubt this is the case, however. Unfortunately, I believe your oil comsumption is due to leakage or oil seal failure.
I do apprecaite your imput, even though you are not Denny.:p
Does anyone know if MMO has a website, I am intreged by the legend of this great elixar.
08-14-01, 10:33 PM
#6
MMO is almost the same stuff as plain old ATF.
Why doesnt anyone around here seem to know about the ATF trick? It is hands down the best way to restore compression and remove gunked up carbon from your engine.
edit: sorry, whenever I see MMO I automatically come to the defense of ATF. I don't think ATF is going to help with your oil problems. disregard.
Why doesnt anyone around here seem to know about the ATF trick? It is hands down the best way to restore compression and remove gunked up carbon from your engine.
edit: sorry, whenever I see MMO I automatically come to the defense of ATF. I don't think ATF is going to help with your oil problems. disregard.
Last edited by Suparslinc; 08-14-01 at 10:40 PM.
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08-15-01, 10:56 AM
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MMO...The Good Stuff
Here's the word, Buckaroos....
My lesson in History of MMO came from an old Harley/Vincent motorcycle rider/mechanic and machine shop owner. (George Brey served with Patton in WWII) He says that MMO was originally invented back in the early 1920's as as a supercharger lubricant for racing and for planes. As the air/fuel mixture came into the supercharger (blower for the drag guys) it was compressed by spinning vanes so that more of the mixture could be "charged" into thru the intake manifold and into the cylinders. Problem was that air/ruel is not a good lubricant and as the vanes spun by the inside of the supercharger housing both the vanes and the housing would be worn away ultimately negating the performance of the "charger." MMO mixed with fuel provides a "burnable" lubricant that coats the vanes and housing thus thus extending and improving the perfomance life of the "charger." It is also an excellent top cylinder cleansing agent, keeping valves, heads, and piston tops free of carbon, varnish, and corrosive materials. Taking apart an engine that had MMO in the fuel and crankcase shows it keeps the internals "clean as a hound's tooth." Says George as he nods as if passing on an old hidden secret. All I can say is it works on all my 7's and boingers. It's great for starting flooded rotaries. Nowhere near as smokey as ATF, and since it was designed to be burned, it's better for your rotary than ATF which wasn't meant to be burned.
Now for more info, here yuh go, Trailhands....
Marvel Mystery Oil can be added to gas or oil. It combats internal motor rust and corrosion, lubricates valves, piston rings, upper cylinder walls, and eliminates valve sticking. Keeps rings free and reduces piston and cylinder wear. Also keeps fuel pump and carburetor parts clean, eliminating the need for frequent adjusting. Marvel Mystery Oil retards formation of power dissipating motor deposits, such as gums, varnish, and sludge.
MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil)
I have never heard of that but it sounds similar to using Marvel Mystery >Oil. You run it with your oil and after running it a 100 miles or so then >change it. It does work. I used it on a car that had 60k miles on it and I >did the FIRST oil change ever on it. I pulled the valve cover, pushed holes >in the oil galleys and then ran marvel mystery oil. When I went to change >it 50 or so miles later it was actually pretty clean. I have noticed more >"junk" comes out of the pan when I use they mystery oil first than if I just >drain it. I just don't trust using ATF the same way. 10 minutes isn't very >long.. and I wouldn't think it would do as well as a job as the Marvel >mystery oil would.
MARVEL MYSTERY OILI have always used 93-octane fuel in my bikes. And approx. every 1500 to 2000 miles I’ve dumped 4oz of Marvel Mystery oil in with a fill up, just to ensure upper cylinder lubrication. No, it doesn't make the bike smoke but will burn the carbon off the piston tops, lube the upper rings, valves and seats, I come from the old school and this was done in the olden days, just a practice I've done on carbonated engines, especially of the motorcycle type. to each his own!
~boomerHey all! Been reading all the comments and questions about Marvel Mystery oil. When I was in Sturgis, bike was acting weird. Sometimes fine --sometimes sluggish till about 3500rpm I thought that maybe carbs were out of sync. Pulled off parts to see carbs and slides were black and sticky.(Bad gas??) Anyway I recalled a friend back home saying that Marvel Mystery Oil (for gas) would clean and lube carb parts as well as top end of engine. I poured about half cup in full tank of fuel and after about 30-40 miles noticed sluggishness had subsided. By the time I got home (WA state) things were running great. Pulled of parts again last weekend to look at carb slides and they were shiny and slick as a whistle. I'm sold on the stuff. ~
Regular Marvel Mystery Oil has been around for many years. I add it to the gas about once a month(about 2 oz.), but it can also be added to the motor oil, and someone I know swears by it as a gas stabilizer(to stop gas from deteriorating in storage). I have used it when no Stabil was handy with no ill results as far as I can tell. ~Al from MassTo dispel any misinformation as to the use of Marvel Mystery oil used in fuel or crankcase, I've used this product and have had no problems for 15000 miles and will continue to do so as I stated in original message. To each his own and only time will tell. AS to adding it to crankcase, unless hydraulic valve lifters are sticking WHY use thin 20w50 oil, as this product isn't much thicker than 10w oil. And by adding it to the gas you're insuring that those valve guides won't rust up over storage NO run time. THINK ABOUT IT. NO I don't sell the product but I do believe in it. AGAIN to each his own. ~WALTERI have been adding marvel to the crankcase to quiet down the lifters with no ill effects yet. (About 3 yr.). ~mike c.Thanks, Rick I had never seen the gas additive before. The Marvel Mystery Oil sold in the US (some one posted a scan of the 1 quart can yesterday) can be added to both crankcase oil and gas. Its about $4.00 a quart red in color and has been sold in the same red can for as long as I can remember. In the past I have on occasion added some to my crankcase at oil change time in the car and truck. Haven't done so on the Cade, but do add a few ounces to the gas tank about once a month. Can't swear that it helps - but have not had any engine/carb problems - bike idles smoothly so I'll keep doing it. My 2 cents. ~
Al from massI have used marvel mystery oil for 45 years. When we parked the tractors (back on the farm) we first loaded the oil in the crankcase, then in the fuel tank and ran them before turning the motors off for the season. We then took the plugs out and filled the cylinders with mystery oil and cranked them several times, replaced the plugs and in some cases the tractors stayed outside with no protection other than a tarp. Come springtime, Start the engines and we never had a problem with any of the tractors. I also do not have anything to do with the company. I don't even know what's in the bottle. But, I will say this, "it works" I purchased my cavalcade in March of this year and the lifters were loud, especially when just started and at idle. I have used it for the past three oil changes. (added 4 oz. each time oil was changed) and now I have no noisy lifters at all.
My dad, who knew more about cars and engines that anyone I ever knew, swore by the benefits of Marvel Mystery Oil. He always poured MMO in the crankcase at each oil change and sometimes put it in the gas tank. His cars always made it to 200,000 miles. said Marvel Mystery Oil hasbeen around since 1923. The major aircraft engine companies do not endorse it ...
Cleaning TimeOK, blow the spark plugs clean of any residue (file shavings, etc). Get out the good old Marvel Mystery Oil. The best stuff on the planet. Always was, always will be. I would drink the struff, if I had the stomach for it. A little in the gas tank, a little in the oil tank quiets things, makes them last forever, and in some cases, brings them back from the dead ( but not a good additive for clutches ). Soak a spotless rag with some Marvel Mystery Oil. Tightly wipe the threads by "unscrewing" the plug in the rag. Avoid getting any of the wonderful oil in the gap area. Make sure the threads are moist with the oil.
Lead Substitute for Buick Engines -- An experienced carburetor and tune-up specialist recommended that Marvel Mystery Oil be added to the gasoline in my 1959 Buicks. This would be a top cylinder lubricant, to take the place of lead in gas. He recommended that 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil to 10 gallons of Unleaded Supreme Gas.
Weapons too!
The gas ports on these guns are larger than they need to be for reliable functioning. Lead fouling of the gas port is not a problem, but the gas piston and cylinder will foul, which can affect functioning if neglected. The gas piston should be removed and cleaned with Marvel Mystery Oil and 000 steel wool after each use, and the gas cylinder scrubbed with a shotgun bore brush. Liberally lubricating with Marvel Mystery Oil prior to reassembly eases the fouling problem. You can fire several hundred rounds between cleanings if you avoid super heating the rifle with rapid fire so that the barrel becomes too hot to hold in the bare hand. If you do so, and let the rifle cool without stripping and cleaning it immediately it will be difficult to disassemble!
Marvel Mystery Oil - A4 advice from Don Moyer:The recipe on the can calls for 4 ounces per 10 gallons to be added to the gasoline, but the experts at Universal recommended that we at least double that amount if you even suspect the you may be having sticky valves.If you are already experiencing sticky valves and rings, you can introduce several squirts of Mystery oil from an oil can directly into the cylinders through the spark plugholes.
I feel obliged to point out I am a home mechanic, I don't sell any of this stuff. Adding a few ounces of MMO to the crankcase in a really dirty, neglected engine and driving it around for about forty miles made a real difference in one car I experimented on (a 1987 Nissan truck with 100,000 miles). There's a hill near my house I use as a sort of diagnostic test. It had been chugging up that hill at 35 mph, with hesitations, pedal to the floor. After running with MMO in the crankcase for a bit, it went up that hill at 50 mph, with less hesitation.
Dear Doc, I own a 1988 Mazda 929. The engine often taps loudly when fist started until it warms up. The dealer says not to worry, just change the oil and filter every 3000 miles. My mechanic says that eventually either the camshaft or lifter will be damaged. What is cause and cure? Why does the noise stop when the engine is warm? This is the only problem I have had, I would like to keep the car for a few more years. Are there any service bulletins on this problem? Thank You in advance. Derek C.A)Dear Derek, a quick look on our Mitchell's System shows bulletin # 005-95 on lifter tapping after extended storage. Even though your problem is over night this T.S.B. can apply to your problem. It refers to the hydraulic lifter noise when first stared. However the first thing I would do if you came into my shop with this problem is the following in this order. First is check oil pressure with a SHOP gauge. If the oil pressure is at proper pressure, then I would drain out a quart of oil, put in a quart of Marvel mystery oil. This oil is very thin and will actually flow through very small passage ways and in some cases clean out any small blockages especially in the hydraulic lifters. After putting in the Mystery oil you would take the car out for a 30 minuet ride. The next step is to drain the oil while it is still hot, being careful not to get burnt. The oil will come very fast because of the thinning form the Marvel Mystery oil. Next use the PROPER oil filter, I recommend filling the oil filter with oil before install it.
Q) Dear Doc, I own a 1995 Plymouth Voyager 7 passenger Mini Van, 3Q. Does using Marvel Mystery Oil in the Fuel accomplish anything?A. In our experience, yes, it does. At the temperatures found in the combustion chamber of a cylinder, MM oil will be vaporized. The best theory is that the MM oil acts as a vapor blast and keeps carbon and lead deposits soft and passing through the exhaust valve rather than adhering to the valve, seat, or guide. In these days of 100 LL fuel (with several times the lead content of the original 80/87 octane fuel) this is an important function. Overall, engines operated with MM oil experience significantly less valve and seat problems and have cleaner burning spark plugs
Airplanes?
Every 20 hours of operation, flush and re-lubricate the top end. GasolineMixing in Marvel Mystery Oil for top-end lube is recommended, or even required depending on who you ask.
The disadvantage of vane-type superchargers has always been the rubbing friction of the vanes. Here Judson have shown excellent engineering know-how by mixing food common sense with the very latest techniques. The Judson’s vanes are at an angle (not radial), so that the centrifugal forces are virtually, but not quite, canceled. Additionally, the vanes (or blades) are made from a laminated plastic material which weights half as much as aluminum and which is dimensionally stable at all temperatures from 50 degrees below zero to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Similar vanes are used commercially by Ingersoll-Rand (portable air compressor) and Thor Power Tool (air-powered grinder). A small amount of lubricant is used (about one quart per 1000 miles) but the exact amount is not at all critical. For this purpose, Judson supplies with the kit an aluminum rocker arm cover which incorporates a metering valve, the best boost in gofor the least in doughreadily adjustable to give one drop of oil every 4 to 6 seconds at idle. Incidentally, the lubricant is Marvel Mystery Oil. Judson warns, "do not use any other type or brand of upper cylinder lubricant, as most top oils are primarily a cleaner and not a lubricant." To which we can only add "Amen."
Boats!
Another canned product that old timers carry around and swear by it, is Marvel Mystery Oil. You can use it like WD-40, or as a fuel or oil additive. It has been said to free up piston ringsAlley's Marine Service Mobile Marine Engine Repair and Service on all major brands of marine gas and diesel engines. Serving the Emerald Coast area of Fort Walton Beach and Destin,Florida. I hope you put stablizer in the tank. I like marvel mystery oil in my fuel, on the rocks, please. Got any questions. E-mail us at ralley@gnt.net or call or just stop by with your questions. See ya on the water.
Many debates have taken place on what techniques should be used to preserve antique tools. One school says that to have true collectors value a 100-year old tool should retain all 200 years of dust and dirt. Many English antique tools are completely reconditioned and sold as "like-new". I take a somewhat middle course. I was brought up to respect and care for tools. That meant keeping them clean, occasionally treating wood parts with boiled linseed oil to keep them from drying out and cracking and keeping metal parts cleaned and lightly oiled. Therefore, most of the tools I sell have been lightly cleaned and preserved as described above. This includes washing wooden parts in a solution of equal parts of turpentine, boiled linseed oil and vinegar and carefully drying them and removing all excess oil. Unfinished metal parts, such as blades, are lightly scraped to remove rust or lightly scrubbed with a nylon pad and oil. A light coat of Marvel "Mystery" Oil is left on all the metal parts as protection against moisture.
Traded Sprite on 1960 Morris Traveller woody wagon. I eventually put a Judson supercharger on this fine little car. After I sold it, someone stole it off the lot, and the Highway Patrol from Victorville called and told me to come get it. It was abandoned when it froze up. Probably the supercharger bearings burned out. You had to refill a reservoir with Marvel Mystery Oil™ every 300 miles or so.
here are a couple of other lifter notes worth passing along the first is that marvel mystery oil when added to the motor oil can quiet down those tired, dirty and noisy hydraulic lifters. I do this a couple of days before I change my oil. I am not big fan of oil additives or engine treatments
March 24, 2001With the engine and trans still attached to the hoist, but the engine mounts laying on a couple of jack stands, I tried turning the crank over by hand with a 16”x1/2-drive breaker bar using 6-pt 1” impact socket. It wouldn’t budge. I’ve heard this is quite common for an old engine which hasn’t run for many years (the rings “freeze up” in the cylinder, apparently). Using an old mechanic’s trick, I removed the spark plugs and squirted a generous amount of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL into each cylinder. Six hours later, I tried it again, but this time with a 6-foot pipe extension on the breaker bar. The crank turned about 1/8 turn twice. I repeated the MMO treatment and tried again in six hours. Success! After forcing it to turnover about twice, it started to turn fairly freely. Now I could get to the remaining converter bolts on the flexplate. After separating the engine and trans, I hung the engine on the stand and finished for the day.
Tiffer has been a great sport during the engine room struggles that have dominated her first days of vacation. Don got the engine running, but then after about 20 minutes of running, we suddenly developed a blow-by suggesting a stuck or damaged valve, or worse a piston problem. Don did his best under the valve cover, but finally cried "UNCLE" and called for a mechanic... who, of course, would not be available until Monday next! We spent more time than we liked imagining the worst, picturing ourselves doing an engine rebuild in one of the priciest ports in the Caribe, before we were rescued by a fellow cruiser, Jim of Impetuous III, and a can of Marvel's Mystery Oil! Jim modestly insists that although he is a mechanic by training, he is not a diesel mechanic, but his MMO cure, sprayed into the intake as the engine was running, proved to be just the ticket. Although he and Don reset the valves just to be thorough, they concluded in the end that the blow-by was caused simply a sticky piece of gunk. Once again the TII escapes disaster!
I use Marvel Mystery oil in my car's fuel system from time to time and it seems to clean out the system better than any of these fuel system cleaners.
Richard,
I thought I was the only one who used Marvel Mystery Oil (MM)!
Well, in my 4 cycle afterStandard for break-in on new or overhauled engines, carbon removal from cylinder heads, piston rings, valves, etc. Mix with regular oil for perfect engine operation temperatures to -20° F. Lubricates tight nuts, control hinges and landing gear. Dust does not adhere readily.
I always take some unleaded gas and MMO and run it throught before I pack up for the day.
"Take two marvel mystery oils and call me in the morning..."
In pre-leadfree engines (Motorbikes, Euro cars - including aircooled Citroens and Panhards) I've run 20% 100LL (Aviation Gas) in a blend. Also dose the tanks with STABLE and often a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil (my rabbit's foot in the tank!).
"Marvel oil in the gas is the only way to go!
I have a $1,900 MTD tractor style mower with B&S engine (L head twin). It has over 800 hours and 9 years on it and I mean rough hours (bahaya grass and hot weather). The engine does not use a drop of oil (changed every 30 hours) and the compression is the same as when new. These other guys can have there $5,000 fancy mowers. I'll use that money to buy a truck.
So there's some testimony,
A bow and a swing of the Steson,
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib....
My lesson in History of MMO came from an old Harley/Vincent motorcycle rider/mechanic and machine shop owner. (George Brey served with Patton in WWII) He says that MMO was originally invented back in the early 1920's as as a supercharger lubricant for racing and for planes. As the air/fuel mixture came into the supercharger (blower for the drag guys) it was compressed by spinning vanes so that more of the mixture could be "charged" into thru the intake manifold and into the cylinders. Problem was that air/ruel is not a good lubricant and as the vanes spun by the inside of the supercharger housing both the vanes and the housing would be worn away ultimately negating the performance of the "charger." MMO mixed with fuel provides a "burnable" lubricant that coats the vanes and housing thus thus extending and improving the perfomance life of the "charger." It is also an excellent top cylinder cleansing agent, keeping valves, heads, and piston tops free of carbon, varnish, and corrosive materials. Taking apart an engine that had MMO in the fuel and crankcase shows it keeps the internals "clean as a hound's tooth." Says George as he nods as if passing on an old hidden secret. All I can say is it works on all my 7's and boingers. It's great for starting flooded rotaries. Nowhere near as smokey as ATF, and since it was designed to be burned, it's better for your rotary than ATF which wasn't meant to be burned.
Now for more info, here yuh go, Trailhands....
Marvel Mystery Oil can be added to gas or oil. It combats internal motor rust and corrosion, lubricates valves, piston rings, upper cylinder walls, and eliminates valve sticking. Keeps rings free and reduces piston and cylinder wear. Also keeps fuel pump and carburetor parts clean, eliminating the need for frequent adjusting. Marvel Mystery Oil retards formation of power dissipating motor deposits, such as gums, varnish, and sludge.
MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil)
I have never heard of that but it sounds similar to using Marvel Mystery >Oil. You run it with your oil and after running it a 100 miles or so then >change it. It does work. I used it on a car that had 60k miles on it and I >did the FIRST oil change ever on it. I pulled the valve cover, pushed holes >in the oil galleys and then ran marvel mystery oil. When I went to change >it 50 or so miles later it was actually pretty clean. I have noticed more >"junk" comes out of the pan when I use they mystery oil first than if I just >drain it. I just don't trust using ATF the same way. 10 minutes isn't very >long.. and I wouldn't think it would do as well as a job as the Marvel >mystery oil would.
MARVEL MYSTERY OILI have always used 93-octane fuel in my bikes. And approx. every 1500 to 2000 miles I’ve dumped 4oz of Marvel Mystery oil in with a fill up, just to ensure upper cylinder lubrication. No, it doesn't make the bike smoke but will burn the carbon off the piston tops, lube the upper rings, valves and seats, I come from the old school and this was done in the olden days, just a practice I've done on carbonated engines, especially of the motorcycle type. to each his own!
~boomerHey all! Been reading all the comments and questions about Marvel Mystery oil. When I was in Sturgis, bike was acting weird. Sometimes fine --sometimes sluggish till about 3500rpm I thought that maybe carbs were out of sync. Pulled off parts to see carbs and slides were black and sticky.(Bad gas??) Anyway I recalled a friend back home saying that Marvel Mystery Oil (for gas) would clean and lube carb parts as well as top end of engine. I poured about half cup in full tank of fuel and after about 30-40 miles noticed sluggishness had subsided. By the time I got home (WA state) things were running great. Pulled of parts again last weekend to look at carb slides and they were shiny and slick as a whistle. I'm sold on the stuff. ~
Regular Marvel Mystery Oil has been around for many years. I add it to the gas about once a month(about 2 oz.), but it can also be added to the motor oil, and someone I know swears by it as a gas stabilizer(to stop gas from deteriorating in storage). I have used it when no Stabil was handy with no ill results as far as I can tell. ~Al from MassTo dispel any misinformation as to the use of Marvel Mystery oil used in fuel or crankcase, I've used this product and have had no problems for 15000 miles and will continue to do so as I stated in original message. To each his own and only time will tell. AS to adding it to crankcase, unless hydraulic valve lifters are sticking WHY use thin 20w50 oil, as this product isn't much thicker than 10w oil. And by adding it to the gas you're insuring that those valve guides won't rust up over storage NO run time. THINK ABOUT IT. NO I don't sell the product but I do believe in it. AGAIN to each his own. ~WALTERI have been adding marvel to the crankcase to quiet down the lifters with no ill effects yet. (About 3 yr.). ~mike c.Thanks, Rick I had never seen the gas additive before. The Marvel Mystery Oil sold in the US (some one posted a scan of the 1 quart can yesterday) can be added to both crankcase oil and gas. Its about $4.00 a quart red in color and has been sold in the same red can for as long as I can remember. In the past I have on occasion added some to my crankcase at oil change time in the car and truck. Haven't done so on the Cade, but do add a few ounces to the gas tank about once a month. Can't swear that it helps - but have not had any engine/carb problems - bike idles smoothly so I'll keep doing it. My 2 cents. ~
Al from massI have used marvel mystery oil for 45 years. When we parked the tractors (back on the farm) we first loaded the oil in the crankcase, then in the fuel tank and ran them before turning the motors off for the season. We then took the plugs out and filled the cylinders with mystery oil and cranked them several times, replaced the plugs and in some cases the tractors stayed outside with no protection other than a tarp. Come springtime, Start the engines and we never had a problem with any of the tractors. I also do not have anything to do with the company. I don't even know what's in the bottle. But, I will say this, "it works" I purchased my cavalcade in March of this year and the lifters were loud, especially when just started and at idle. I have used it for the past three oil changes. (added 4 oz. each time oil was changed) and now I have no noisy lifters at all.
My dad, who knew more about cars and engines that anyone I ever knew, swore by the benefits of Marvel Mystery Oil. He always poured MMO in the crankcase at each oil change and sometimes put it in the gas tank. His cars always made it to 200,000 miles. said Marvel Mystery Oil hasbeen around since 1923. The major aircraft engine companies do not endorse it ...
Cleaning TimeOK, blow the spark plugs clean of any residue (file shavings, etc). Get out the good old Marvel Mystery Oil. The best stuff on the planet. Always was, always will be. I would drink the struff, if I had the stomach for it. A little in the gas tank, a little in the oil tank quiets things, makes them last forever, and in some cases, brings them back from the dead ( but not a good additive for clutches ). Soak a spotless rag with some Marvel Mystery Oil. Tightly wipe the threads by "unscrewing" the plug in the rag. Avoid getting any of the wonderful oil in the gap area. Make sure the threads are moist with the oil.
Lead Substitute for Buick Engines -- An experienced carburetor and tune-up specialist recommended that Marvel Mystery Oil be added to the gasoline in my 1959 Buicks. This would be a top cylinder lubricant, to take the place of lead in gas. He recommended that 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil to 10 gallons of Unleaded Supreme Gas.
Weapons too!
The gas ports on these guns are larger than they need to be for reliable functioning. Lead fouling of the gas port is not a problem, but the gas piston and cylinder will foul, which can affect functioning if neglected. The gas piston should be removed and cleaned with Marvel Mystery Oil and 000 steel wool after each use, and the gas cylinder scrubbed with a shotgun bore brush. Liberally lubricating with Marvel Mystery Oil prior to reassembly eases the fouling problem. You can fire several hundred rounds between cleanings if you avoid super heating the rifle with rapid fire so that the barrel becomes too hot to hold in the bare hand. If you do so, and let the rifle cool without stripping and cleaning it immediately it will be difficult to disassemble!
Marvel Mystery Oil - A4 advice from Don Moyer:The recipe on the can calls for 4 ounces per 10 gallons to be added to the gasoline, but the experts at Universal recommended that we at least double that amount if you even suspect the you may be having sticky valves.If you are already experiencing sticky valves and rings, you can introduce several squirts of Mystery oil from an oil can directly into the cylinders through the spark plugholes.
I feel obliged to point out I am a home mechanic, I don't sell any of this stuff. Adding a few ounces of MMO to the crankcase in a really dirty, neglected engine and driving it around for about forty miles made a real difference in one car I experimented on (a 1987 Nissan truck with 100,000 miles). There's a hill near my house I use as a sort of diagnostic test. It had been chugging up that hill at 35 mph, with hesitations, pedal to the floor. After running with MMO in the crankcase for a bit, it went up that hill at 50 mph, with less hesitation.
Dear Doc, I own a 1988 Mazda 929. The engine often taps loudly when fist started until it warms up. The dealer says not to worry, just change the oil and filter every 3000 miles. My mechanic says that eventually either the camshaft or lifter will be damaged. What is cause and cure? Why does the noise stop when the engine is warm? This is the only problem I have had, I would like to keep the car for a few more years. Are there any service bulletins on this problem? Thank You in advance. Derek C.A)Dear Derek, a quick look on our Mitchell's System shows bulletin # 005-95 on lifter tapping after extended storage. Even though your problem is over night this T.S.B. can apply to your problem. It refers to the hydraulic lifter noise when first stared. However the first thing I would do if you came into my shop with this problem is the following in this order. First is check oil pressure with a SHOP gauge. If the oil pressure is at proper pressure, then I would drain out a quart of oil, put in a quart of Marvel mystery oil. This oil is very thin and will actually flow through very small passage ways and in some cases clean out any small blockages especially in the hydraulic lifters. After putting in the Mystery oil you would take the car out for a 30 minuet ride. The next step is to drain the oil while it is still hot, being careful not to get burnt. The oil will come very fast because of the thinning form the Marvel Mystery oil. Next use the PROPER oil filter, I recommend filling the oil filter with oil before install it.
Q) Dear Doc, I own a 1995 Plymouth Voyager 7 passenger Mini Van, 3Q. Does using Marvel Mystery Oil in the Fuel accomplish anything?A. In our experience, yes, it does. At the temperatures found in the combustion chamber of a cylinder, MM oil will be vaporized. The best theory is that the MM oil acts as a vapor blast and keeps carbon and lead deposits soft and passing through the exhaust valve rather than adhering to the valve, seat, or guide. In these days of 100 LL fuel (with several times the lead content of the original 80/87 octane fuel) this is an important function. Overall, engines operated with MM oil experience significantly less valve and seat problems and have cleaner burning spark plugs
Airplanes?
Every 20 hours of operation, flush and re-lubricate the top end. GasolineMixing in Marvel Mystery Oil for top-end lube is recommended, or even required depending on who you ask.
The disadvantage of vane-type superchargers has always been the rubbing friction of the vanes. Here Judson have shown excellent engineering know-how by mixing food common sense with the very latest techniques. The Judson’s vanes are at an angle (not radial), so that the centrifugal forces are virtually, but not quite, canceled. Additionally, the vanes (or blades) are made from a laminated plastic material which weights half as much as aluminum and which is dimensionally stable at all temperatures from 50 degrees below zero to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Similar vanes are used commercially by Ingersoll-Rand (portable air compressor) and Thor Power Tool (air-powered grinder). A small amount of lubricant is used (about one quart per 1000 miles) but the exact amount is not at all critical. For this purpose, Judson supplies with the kit an aluminum rocker arm cover which incorporates a metering valve, the best boost in gofor the least in doughreadily adjustable to give one drop of oil every 4 to 6 seconds at idle. Incidentally, the lubricant is Marvel Mystery Oil. Judson warns, "do not use any other type or brand of upper cylinder lubricant, as most top oils are primarily a cleaner and not a lubricant." To which we can only add "Amen."
Boats!
Another canned product that old timers carry around and swear by it, is Marvel Mystery Oil. You can use it like WD-40, or as a fuel or oil additive. It has been said to free up piston ringsAlley's Marine Service Mobile Marine Engine Repair and Service on all major brands of marine gas and diesel engines. Serving the Emerald Coast area of Fort Walton Beach and Destin,Florida. I hope you put stablizer in the tank. I like marvel mystery oil in my fuel, on the rocks, please. Got any questions. E-mail us at ralley@gnt.net or call or just stop by with your questions. See ya on the water.
Many debates have taken place on what techniques should be used to preserve antique tools. One school says that to have true collectors value a 100-year old tool should retain all 200 years of dust and dirt. Many English antique tools are completely reconditioned and sold as "like-new". I take a somewhat middle course. I was brought up to respect and care for tools. That meant keeping them clean, occasionally treating wood parts with boiled linseed oil to keep them from drying out and cracking and keeping metal parts cleaned and lightly oiled. Therefore, most of the tools I sell have been lightly cleaned and preserved as described above. This includes washing wooden parts in a solution of equal parts of turpentine, boiled linseed oil and vinegar and carefully drying them and removing all excess oil. Unfinished metal parts, such as blades, are lightly scraped to remove rust or lightly scrubbed with a nylon pad and oil. A light coat of Marvel "Mystery" Oil is left on all the metal parts as protection against moisture.
Traded Sprite on 1960 Morris Traveller woody wagon. I eventually put a Judson supercharger on this fine little car. After I sold it, someone stole it off the lot, and the Highway Patrol from Victorville called and told me to come get it. It was abandoned when it froze up. Probably the supercharger bearings burned out. You had to refill a reservoir with Marvel Mystery Oil™ every 300 miles or so.
here are a couple of other lifter notes worth passing along the first is that marvel mystery oil when added to the motor oil can quiet down those tired, dirty and noisy hydraulic lifters. I do this a couple of days before I change my oil. I am not big fan of oil additives or engine treatments
March 24, 2001With the engine and trans still attached to the hoist, but the engine mounts laying on a couple of jack stands, I tried turning the crank over by hand with a 16”x1/2-drive breaker bar using 6-pt 1” impact socket. It wouldn’t budge. I’ve heard this is quite common for an old engine which hasn’t run for many years (the rings “freeze up” in the cylinder, apparently). Using an old mechanic’s trick, I removed the spark plugs and squirted a generous amount of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL into each cylinder. Six hours later, I tried it again, but this time with a 6-foot pipe extension on the breaker bar. The crank turned about 1/8 turn twice. I repeated the MMO treatment and tried again in six hours. Success! After forcing it to turnover about twice, it started to turn fairly freely. Now I could get to the remaining converter bolts on the flexplate. After separating the engine and trans, I hung the engine on the stand and finished for the day.
Tiffer has been a great sport during the engine room struggles that have dominated her first days of vacation. Don got the engine running, but then after about 20 minutes of running, we suddenly developed a blow-by suggesting a stuck or damaged valve, or worse a piston problem. Don did his best under the valve cover, but finally cried "UNCLE" and called for a mechanic... who, of course, would not be available until Monday next! We spent more time than we liked imagining the worst, picturing ourselves doing an engine rebuild in one of the priciest ports in the Caribe, before we were rescued by a fellow cruiser, Jim of Impetuous III, and a can of Marvel's Mystery Oil! Jim modestly insists that although he is a mechanic by training, he is not a diesel mechanic, but his MMO cure, sprayed into the intake as the engine was running, proved to be just the ticket. Although he and Don reset the valves just to be thorough, they concluded in the end that the blow-by was caused simply a sticky piece of gunk. Once again the TII escapes disaster!
I use Marvel Mystery oil in my car's fuel system from time to time and it seems to clean out the system better than any of these fuel system cleaners.
Richard,
I thought I was the only one who used Marvel Mystery Oil (MM)!
Well, in my 4 cycle afterStandard for break-in on new or overhauled engines, carbon removal from cylinder heads, piston rings, valves, etc. Mix with regular oil for perfect engine operation temperatures to -20° F. Lubricates tight nuts, control hinges and landing gear. Dust does not adhere readily.
I always take some unleaded gas and MMO and run it throught before I pack up for the day.
"Take two marvel mystery oils and call me in the morning..."
In pre-leadfree engines (Motorbikes, Euro cars - including aircooled Citroens and Panhards) I've run 20% 100LL (Aviation Gas) in a blend. Also dose the tanks with STABLE and often a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil (my rabbit's foot in the tank!).
"Marvel oil in the gas is the only way to go!
I have a $1,900 MTD tractor style mower with B&S engine (L head twin). It has over 800 hours and 9 years on it and I mean rough hours (bahaya grass and hot weather). The engine does not use a drop of oil (changed every 30 hours) and the compression is the same as when new. These other guys can have there $5,000 fancy mowers. I'll use that money to buy a truck.
So there's some testimony,
A bow and a swing of the Steson,
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib....
08-16-01, 12:53 PM
#11
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Denny's in the stock market
I think Marvel must be a publicly traded company with a certain invester owning a large percentage. I wonder if that invester ever posts on this board...
08-16-01, 07:40 PM
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Wish them Good 'Ol Boys would hurry up and cut my check, my main hoss could use some new alloy shoes!
Anyway it's a great product for our spinners. Just so you know I'm not just a one-way dude, I also think that the best penetrant available on the market today is Chrysler's Mopar Rust Penetrant, available at your local Dealership. I've tried most of the others, and all I can say is that the Mopar stuff is the best I've found.
Oil brands? Everyone's got their favorite, as do I. I'll just say use a brand name, and you're probably doing good.
Fuel? I only burn fuel that has NO alcohol or methenol in it. That stuff eats flexible hose, and where do you think that curious mixture ends up? That's right, Rocket Boy. So I only use Shell or Marathon.
Basically, buy quality. Get a deal if you can, but cheap will eventually let you down. Many of the Old-Timers that I've respected thru the years always preached quality as a standard. Now, as I near my "Golden Years," I feel forced to join in with 'em.
Thanx for the accolades,
A big wave of the Stetson for all you wonderful people...
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib...
Anyway it's a great product for our spinners. Just so you know I'm not just a one-way dude, I also think that the best penetrant available on the market today is Chrysler's Mopar Rust Penetrant, available at your local Dealership. I've tried most of the others, and all I can say is that the Mopar stuff is the best I've found.
Oil brands? Everyone's got their favorite, as do I. I'll just say use a brand name, and you're probably doing good.
Fuel? I only burn fuel that has NO alcohol or methenol in it. That stuff eats flexible hose, and where do you think that curious mixture ends up? That's right, Rocket Boy. So I only use Shell or Marathon.
Basically, buy quality. Get a deal if you can, but cheap will eventually let you down. Many of the Old-Timers that I've respected thru the years always preached quality as a standard. Now, as I near my "Golden Years," I feel forced to join in with 'em.
Thanx for the accolades,
A big wave of the Stetson for all you wonderful people...
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib...
05-03-04, 11:57 AM
#22
Right near Malloy
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Well damn.. I thought I was gonna have to submit my pic for official MMO addict...
Won't let me attach one, but I got one of me in the Denny pose... Right behind the car, thumb up, im a cloud of MMO smoke, with the goofiest lookin' grin.
Won't let me attach one, but I got one of me in the Denny pose... Right behind the car, thumb up, im a cloud of MMO smoke, with the goofiest lookin' grin.
05-03-04, 09:49 PM
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Hey, Denny! 
KC Shaw, yes... just pour one bottle of MMO into your gas tank when you fill up (use care not to spill it on the paint).
I put one bottle of MMO in every other tankful in my f.i. GSL-SE, because (1) a bottle costs $3.50 here, and (2) my engine check-ups have been really good even using it only every other tank.
...
Hey Pele, cool avatar!
KC Shaw, yes... just pour one bottle of MMO into your gas tank when you fill up (use care not to spill it on the paint).
I put one bottle of MMO in every other tankful in my f.i. GSL-SE, because (1) a bottle costs $3.50 here, and (2) my engine check-ups have been really good even using it only every other tank.
...
Hey Pele, cool avatar!
Last edited by genrex; 05-03-04 at 09:53 PM.
05-04-04, 07:32 AM
#24
Junior Member
Fuel Injection
You betcha KC Shaw...Just about all my past Sevens were injected as we ran nothin but GSL-SE's and 2nd gens. Now I've got a GSL-SE again and an '88 Vert.
Hear me now, and believe me later....MMO is Honey to a rotary engine. They love the stuff. That doesn't mean you over do it.
Denny, that Ol' Cowboy
from the abandoned corncrib...
Hear me now, and believe me later....MMO is Honey to a rotary engine. They love the stuff. That doesn't mean you over do it.
Denny, that Ol' Cowboy
from the abandoned corncrib...
05-04-04, 12:18 PM
#25
Lorem ipsum dolor sit ame
So assuming that you are either pre-mixing 2 stroke oil or your OMP is operating, how much MMO would one add to a tank? one bottle seems excesive. Couple of months ago, with my OMP operating (I think) I was adding about 1/2 oz per gallon, or 8 oz to a full gas tank. Is that about right?
