racerx01

After taking my 85 GS out for a 150 mile shake down run last night after having RB springs and shocks installed, had an hard start issues that I have never had before this morning. Car would not start using choke or no choke with full throttle. Tried both methods a couple of times, engine would almost fire but not start.

Waited a few hours and went back to investigate further, got it to fire up on third try using the normal choke start method. Let car run until fully warm, ran it up and down power range with no bogs or hesitations.

Any insight on what issue was, never had this problem before. Have owned this RX7 for month or so. Has always fired no matter the temperature, the first turn of the key using normal choke start method.

Fuel filter (installed early this week), starter, alternator, and battery are fine.

Maybe Nikki issues? Looking for some advice.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Stock Nikkis only work sort of well with all emissions devices intact and working. When you change something like add a better exhaust or whatever, the stock Nikki needs to be modded into something that will run far better for you. Plenty of info on the forum for how to do it.

racerx01

The engine and exhaust are completely stock. Never had this issue before. Just don't want have issue again if on rally or if I go to DGRR in spring.

Really like your posts on Nikki carbs, would like to get to know my carb in that detail. I plan to stay with Nikki for the future. Every 1st Gen I have owned had Nikki carbs, and ran awesome.

Any advice from one of the Nikki master is certainly welcomed.

wankel=awesome

I could build you one, but they really are easy to do. One thing I do that nobody else does is utilize a lathe to cut my chokes. I have a few different inlet/outlet angles I really like, and they make a big difference on how the carb reacts to airflow mods.

racerx01

I might be interest in trying a "fat nikki" in the future, but have never done any work on carbs before. I think I have read ever post on modded nikki, my concern is how much this could affect drivability... i.e. still work with choke, any hard start issues, and flooding?

If I bought one from you, what would it cost and would I need to provide a "core" carb?

Always liked the 12A with carbs better than 13B FI motors. I have had one of each before this recent purchase. Neither every gave me any issues and cars were daily driver years ago; incredibly billet proof (I did check oil regularly, and change ever 5K; kept fresh plugs in them).

The Nikki I have on the car now has 170K and has been rebuild at least once, and had new floats installed at least once. The original owner keep her major maintenance records since new, car has a factory replacement motor that she had installed by dealer after blowing up her first motor around 135K miles.

racerx01

Forgot to add, that it has like a copper engine VIN tag that was riveted to factory VIN in the engine bay. Kinda cool looking back thru the maintenance records for car that in Aug 2000 she had dealer replace motor; just the motor was $1936, then all the other items including replacing the clutch totaled $3855 out the door. She must have really loved the car; since it cost $14338 in 1985 according to the title and sales invoice.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I think everyone needs a "fat nikki".