Dead horse beating: GSL-SE Wheel Fitment
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Dead horse beating: GSL-SE Wheel Fitment
FFS, right? Sorry but I've been searching all day and can't find a definitive answer in one place. Hoping to help others out if possible too... I've looked at countless threads and knowledgeable members aren't posting specifics, while randos keep focusing on offset without width in mind. I've looked at threads through the last 6 years. Hoping this helps clear things up for me and others.
So based on info pieces I could gather, I threw together a chart to fill out some of the gaps I'm misunderstanding and these are the values that I can come up with:
Preliminary questions:
What is the *Maximum* value of back-spacing acceptable on a GSL-SE with stock suspension? With Coilovers?
What is the *Maximum* value of hub to lip on a stock-bodied GSL-SE? With rolled fenders?
From the pieces I can gather, these are the numbers I've got:
Minimum back spacing:
Coilovers: 4.5-in (???)
Stock Suspension: 5-in (???)
Maximum value of hub to lip for stock fenders:
Stock Fenders: (????)
Rolled Fenders: ~3.5 (???)
*Edit: Are these the same for front and rears? Anyone?*
I've attached my doc that I'm using to figure things out. If you guys know, let me know and we'll get a flippin' guide in this joint. I thought about buying flares because of how scattered the knowledge is on this
So based on info pieces I could gather, I threw together a chart to fill out some of the gaps I'm misunderstanding and these are the values that I can come up with:
Preliminary questions:
What is the *Maximum* value of back-spacing acceptable on a GSL-SE with stock suspension? With Coilovers?
What is the *Maximum* value of hub to lip on a stock-bodied GSL-SE? With rolled fenders?
From the pieces I can gather, these are the numbers I've got:
Minimum back spacing:
Coilovers: 4.5-in (???)
Stock Suspension: 5-in (???)
Maximum value of hub to lip for stock fenders:
Stock Fenders: (????)
Rolled Fenders: ~3.5 (???)
*Edit: Are these the same for front and rears? Anyone?*
I've attached my doc that I'm using to figure things out. If you guys know, let me know and we'll get a flippin' guide in this joint. I thought about buying flares because of how scattered the knowledge is on this
Last edited by crysis; 05-29-15 at 08:02 PM.
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#8
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This is a bit of a complicated debate, but all those cars have mega hp, that makes more traction useful, most FBs dont have that problem, and the bigger / wider wheels and tires are much heavier than stock, so the car accelerates slower, takes longer to stop and gets worse milage, not to mention the extra weight makes the suspension have to work harder. Effects handling.
They do look better, but at a cost.
Mr. Green has a point.
They do look better, but at a cost.
Mr. Green has a point.
#10
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This is a bit of a complicated debate, but all those cars have mega hp, that makes more traction useful, most FBs dont have that problem, and the bigger / wider wheels and tires are much heavier than stock, so the car accelerates slower, takes longer to stop and gets worse milage, not to mention the extra weight makes the suspension have to work harder. Effects handling.
They do look better, but at a cost.
Mr. Green has a point.
They do look better, but at a cost.
Mr. Green has a point.
#11
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Making a thread that stays on topic on this forum is pretty difficult.
But since we're off topic.... the "sportscar" comment and the "wider wheels are much heavier" arguments are very presumptuous. stock gsl-se wheels are 13lbs a corner (no tire) and there are plenty of CHEAP 15x8 options at 15lbs a corner, using less tire to fill the same tire height. You can get a 205-tire to fit on a 15x8 while slimming the tire wall. I don't think there's gonna be huge negative effects here (unless we're talking drag-widths and tires on all corners).
As to the sportscar comment, unless you are ice racing, stock gsl-se stance could use some track width to improve handling and balance. This is why go-karts aren't shaped like bobsleds.
Anyhow, I test fitted a friends 15x9 0, 195/50 on one of the fronts this weekend without clearance issues. There was 2inches of space at full lock clearing the sway bar, and more back spacing than the stock gsl-se wheel. The 9-width 0-offset sticks about 2.5 inches outside of the stock front fender.
Hopefully this thread helps someone in the future, if they can sift through the garbage comments.
But since we're off topic.... the "sportscar" comment and the "wider wheels are much heavier" arguments are very presumptuous. stock gsl-se wheels are 13lbs a corner (no tire) and there are plenty of CHEAP 15x8 options at 15lbs a corner, using less tire to fill the same tire height. You can get a 205-tire to fit on a 15x8 while slimming the tire wall. I don't think there's gonna be huge negative effects here (unless we're talking drag-widths and tires on all corners).
As to the sportscar comment, unless you are ice racing, stock gsl-se stance could use some track width to improve handling and balance. This is why go-karts aren't shaped like bobsleds.
Anyhow, I test fitted a friends 15x9 0, 195/50 on one of the fronts this weekend without clearance issues. There was 2inches of space at full lock clearing the sway bar, and more back spacing than the stock gsl-se wheel. The 9-width 0-offset sticks about 2.5 inches outside of the stock front fender.
Hopefully this thread helps someone in the future, if they can sift through the garbage comments.
#12
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Back to the subject, I know a +35 on a 7" wheel fits very nicely in the front and back. That would be about 5.3" of backspacing.
#14
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lots of stretching...and one of those air exploder things. Definitely not recommended but cool to know that 4.5-inches of backspacing definitely fits
#20
ancient wizard...
FFS, right? Sorry but I've been searching all day and can't find a definitive answer in one place. Hoping to help others out if possible too... I've looked at countless threads and knowledgeable members aren't posting specifics, while randos keep focusing on offset without width in mind. I've looked at threads through the last 6 years. Hoping this helps clear things up for me and others.
So based on info pieces I could gather, I threw together a chart to fill out some of the gaps I'm misunderstanding and these are the values that I can come up with:
Preliminary questions:
What is the *Maximum* value of back-spacing acceptable on a GSL-SE with stock suspension? With Coilovers?
What is the *Maximum* value of hub to lip on a stock-bodied GSL-SE? With rolled fenders?
From the pieces I can gather, these are the numbers I've got:
Minimum back spacing:
Coilovers: 4.5-in (???)
Stock Suspension: 5-in (???)
Maximum value of hub to lip for stock fenders:
Stock Fenders: (????)
Rolled Fenders: ~3.5 (???)
*Edit: Are these the same for front and rears? Anyone?*
I've attached my doc that I'm using to figure things out. If you guys know, let me know and we'll get a flippin' guide in this joint. I thought about buying flares because of how scattered the knowledge is on this
So based on info pieces I could gather, I threw together a chart to fill out some of the gaps I'm misunderstanding and these are the values that I can come up with:
Preliminary questions:
What is the *Maximum* value of back-spacing acceptable on a GSL-SE with stock suspension? With Coilovers?
What is the *Maximum* value of hub to lip on a stock-bodied GSL-SE? With rolled fenders?
From the pieces I can gather, these are the numbers I've got:
Minimum back spacing:
Coilovers: 4.5-in (???)
Stock Suspension: 5-in (???)
Maximum value of hub to lip for stock fenders:
Stock Fenders: (????)
Rolled Fenders: ~3.5 (???)
*Edit: Are these the same for front and rears? Anyone?*
I've attached my doc that I'm using to figure things out. If you guys know, let me know and we'll get a flippin' guide in this joint. I thought about buying flares because of how scattered the knowledge is on this
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 03-23-17 at 04:02 PM. Reason: Omitted wheel spec
#21
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I have 16x7 xxr wheels with a 25mm offset. They have 205/45r16 tires mounted on them. I am lowered on coilovers and they clear the fenders fine. I do have about -2.3 degrees of camber on the front though. I also have lots of room from the inner wheel to the coilovers on the front. My fenders have not been touched at all, no rolling or pulling. I have autocrossed and driven my car hard and have not had issues.
Last edited by sa7; 03-23-17 at 05:30 PM.
#22
ancient wizard...
I have 16x7 xxr wheels with a 25mm offset. They have 205/45r16 tires mounted on them. I am lowered on coilovers and they clear the fenders fine. I do have about -2.3 degrees of camber on the front though. I also have lots of room from the inner wheel to the coilovers on the front. My fenders have not been touched at all, no rolling or pulling. I have autocrossed and driven my car hard and have not had issues.
#25
Full Member
I totally agree, Ray G. These are 32 to 38 yr. old 'classic' cars and deserve to wear 'shoes' that they were born with. If you do not like your OEM (SE) wheels - then either sell your car or purchase something else - like a Porsche, Ferrari or Lambo. Molesting fender-wells or suspension on a Gen-One car would be like pulling your Pit-Bull's teeth out and replacing with implants or dentures.
My 'one-owner' SE is 33 years old and proudly wears its' trademark (pizza-cutter) aluminum wheels, as date-coded for 1984. As some of you already know, my biggest concern is lack of 205-60-14" tires in the marketplace (except for Chinese). I just returned from 1300 mile trip to to Washington State where we went as far south as Eatonville (yes, planned visit to Atkins Rotary Specialties - - atkinsrotary.com - - and I sincerely thank them for parts, hospitality, tour and info), - - as far west as Ocean Shores and east to Wenatchee. My ODO now up to 81,150km. (50,500 miles) - and car never skipped a beat - with 33 yr.old fuel pump. I took new one along for ride - just in case.
It rained for 3 of 5 days and sometimes very hard on freeways - especially during 'white-knuckle' time thru Snoqualmie. My (second set) of tires, Sept.'01, never let me down - whether on dry or wet. The tread is still over 70% and soft. If I could find another set of these Dunlops I would buy them and SIT on them until really needed.
So, you true enthusiasts, who drive only on public roads, should either stay with OEM size wheels and tires or find another brand vehicle.
My 'one-owner' SE is 33 years old and proudly wears its' trademark (pizza-cutter) aluminum wheels, as date-coded for 1984. As some of you already know, my biggest concern is lack of 205-60-14" tires in the marketplace (except for Chinese). I just returned from 1300 mile trip to to Washington State where we went as far south as Eatonville (yes, planned visit to Atkins Rotary Specialties - - atkinsrotary.com - - and I sincerely thank them for parts, hospitality, tour and info), - - as far west as Ocean Shores and east to Wenatchee. My ODO now up to 81,150km. (50,500 miles) - and car never skipped a beat - with 33 yr.old fuel pump. I took new one along for ride - just in case.
It rained for 3 of 5 days and sometimes very hard on freeways - especially during 'white-knuckle' time thru Snoqualmie. My (second set) of tires, Sept.'01, never let me down - whether on dry or wet. The tread is still over 70% and soft. If I could find another set of these Dunlops I would buy them and SIT on them until really needed.
So, you true enthusiasts, who drive only on public roads, should either stay with OEM size wheels and tires or find another brand vehicle.