Box_Man

I decided that rather than pay $60-something and wait a week, I'd make my own pulley when my 4000 mile old alternator decided to take a **** and ruin my nice aluminum pulley. 3"OD, double sheave, Modeled in solid works, and made on a Haas SL-20 Lathe... Out of scrap metal.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

nice!

openshot

what does that do besides the size?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

nice work. looks really good.

reduces the alt speed at higher revs. hence the term under drive. better on the bearings.

killalot13601

iTrader: (5)

Are you offering the CAD files for others to use?
May I have a STEP file, or an IGES file of the native CAD file?
Or may I have a DXF of the CAD drawing file so I may use it to create my own model?
Or, simply a PDF of the drawing?
What length belt do you suggest using? Is it the OEM 32 inch v-belt(s) - connecting the alternator to the water pump?

Jon Bixby
1987 Mazda RX-7 6-port T4 turbo with MegaSquirt 2 ECU
Johnson City, NY 13790

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Do your lights dim at idle?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

with the larger dia pulley it might make the oem replacement belt too short. just go with the same type belt but a couple inches longer.

Box_Man

I kept my original belts and it worked fine, but then again, I am using a ported FC water pump/housing now, so the bracket it a little... Different.

My lights do not dim at idle either.

Unfortunately, the flash drive that I had the Solidworks models and drawings on fell apart a few days ago. But these pulleys are stupidly easy to draw. If I remember correctly, the V-belt grooves are 30 degrees, and all your measurements will come from original pulleys. Use the back part of the pulley that contacts the alternator shaft spacer as a datum to place the grooves, and use the water pump pulleys to place the grooves relative to one another.