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Old 11-06-12, 12:56 PM   #26
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Fiberglass efan shroud
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Vented hood
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MAF air filter adapter
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Hockey puck motor mounts
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Old 11-06-12, 01:43 PM   #27
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Fiberglass efan shroud
Click the image to open in full size.


Vented hood
Click the image to open in full size.


MAF air filter adapter
Click the image to open in full size.


Hockey puck motor mounts
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Xxxj, what material did you make the motor mounts out of? Are they solid, or soft?
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Old 11-06-12, 02:51 PM   #28
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Thanks. Some nice stuff XXXJ, I especially like that hood.
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Old 11-06-12, 03:18 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Xxxj, what material did you make the motor mounts out of? Are they solid, or soft?
They are made from hockey pucks with some large washers to get the right thickness. I used the original cup that sandwich them. You drill a hole all the way through and use a long bolt. They are pretty solid, not as bad as aluminum or steel mounts.


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Thanks. Some nice stuff XXXJ, I especially like that hood.
Thanks
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Old 11-06-12, 09:48 PM   #30
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Can you tell me how i can make a cut in the hood and bent the metal without the hood getting dents or a crease in it? Thought you might have that info for me! Thanks, looks way cool!
Is that directed at me or rotaryjunkee? I cut mine with a cutting wheel. If you're bending the metal, you want to use something behind it like a metal pipe so you can gently roll the metal in a uniform curve. There's a lot of good videos on youtube about sheet metal fab and shaping.
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Old 11-08-12, 09:03 PM   #31
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Couldnt be directed at me, because I havent modified my hood on my 7.
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Old 11-08-12, 09:51 PM   #32
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Backyard "competition" style transmount. Filled the gap between square section and plate with some sikaflex-227 i had left over and a couple pieces of 4mm rubber sheet. levered it open a bit to get it in, let it go, all the goo squeeses out, tight as a drum. just smeared the excess all over the rubber mount. Took all of 2min and 0$. Should have a bit less movement now!!
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Old 11-08-12, 11:46 PM   #33
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Backyard "competition" style transmount. Filled the gap between square section and plate with some sikaflex-227 i had left over and a couple pieces of 4mm rubber sheet. levered it open a bit to get it in, let it go, all the goo squeeses out, tight as a drum. just smeared the excess all over the rubber mount. Took all of 2min and 0$. Should have a bit less movement now!!
Hey, that's a good idea. I've already had one go bad once, if it goes again I might try that.

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Couldnt be directed at me, because I havent modified my hood on my 7.
My bad, I meant XXXJ. I think he was asking about his hood... it's a vent, not a scoop. Air flows through the front and out the vent on the hood. Helps with cooling.
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Old 11-09-12, 07:20 AM   #34
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Lol its all good lizardfc, although I wouldnt mind having a hoodscoop. I havent ever worked with fiberglass so it would definetely be a worthy challenge.
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Old 11-10-12, 01:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
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I dont understand how it works, does the air for the filter come in the front or the scoop?
Its not for induction, it works as a heat extractor.


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Can you tell me how i can make a cut in the hood and bent the metal without the hood getting dents or a crease in it? Thought you might have that info for me! Thanks, looks way cool!
Youre are just about most of the time bound to get some kind of dent or crease. It can be done without it happening though. Comes down to skill and patience.

I just used cutoff wheel to cut my hood. You have to cut some of the hood bracing out to make the bend. So what I did at where the bend starts is take some 1/4" round stock and spot welded it across the hood and to the bracing, this gave me a solid point to bend from with out much sheet metal flex. Then I clamped a piece of flat bar to the cut side to give me a solid flats surface to pull on the metal with by hand. I have.

On the top side you may notice that I have a small lip prior to where the vent starts, that is another piece of 1/4" round stock welded in place. When I had the "flap" bent to the angle I wanted I welded those vertical rods to the flap and to the upper horizontal rod.

From there I did my body work, finished the lip and blocked and primed the hood.
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Old 11-10-12, 01:18 PM   #36
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Lol its all good lizardfc, although I wouldnt mind having a hoodscoop. I havent ever worked with fiberglass so it would definetely be a worthy challenge.
You can go a little easier route and just buy a scoop, cut your hood out and use some 3M Panel Bond(or similar glue) to glue it in place.

If you can cut your hole really precise you could use the lips that are on most scoops and glue it from the underside. This would give you a more "clean" look. If you decide to finish it out, it would require less effort and materials.
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Old 11-10-12, 02:19 PM   #37
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Thx for the suggestion xxxj, that sounds like something a little easier to start with, rather than go and fabricate something from scratch, and end up f&@kin up my hood lol
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Old 11-11-12, 01:05 AM   #38
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I don't have any pictures but my fc caught on fire going down the road one night and burnt my wiring harness. I got picked up, went back the next day and made a custom wire harness out of speaker wire and duct tape. It got me home which was about 2 hours away. This is while in college and living on a diet of Ramen noodles and the occasional free meal from working on cars.
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Old 11-11-12, 06:55 PM   #39
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You can go a little easier route and just buy a scoop, cut your hood out and use some 3M Panel Bond(or similar glue) to glue it in place.

If you can cut your hole really precise you could use the lips that are on most scoops and glue it from the underside. This would give you a more "clean" look. If you decide to finish it out, it would require less effort and materials.
Yeah, if I had the project to do again I would probably go with a premade scoop as well. The thought didn't occur to me until I'd already made mine. I always do stuff the hard way.
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Old 11-20-12, 07:32 PM   #40
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I don't have any pictures but my fc caught on fire going down the road one night and burnt my wiring harness. I got picked up, went back the next day and made a custom wire harness out of speaker wire and duct tape. It got me home which was about 2 hours away. This is while in college and living on a diet of Ramen noodles and the occasional free meal from working on cars.
now thats what you call "git r done" do what you had to get the vehicle home, lol would have liked to see some pics of that harness
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Old 11-21-12, 01:53 AM   #41
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Cheapest mod?

1. Remove everything that doesn't have to be there to make the car run.
2. Clean the crap out of everything that's left.

Here's a thread detailing most of what I removed from under the hood, along with how I cleaned years of crap off the paint in the engine bay:

(OTHER) Finally some pics...




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Old 11-28-12, 08:13 AM   #42
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@ kentetsu, I read your post on cleaning the car, thats great work, it inspired me to do mine
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Old 11-29-12, 12:04 AM   #43
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I've got a couple radio surrounds and a couple that have broken or smashed in shipping, so I made this, then painted in black.

Click the image to open in full size.

Also bought a heat shield that I was told was 13b, it ended up being 12a. So I ceramic coated it, then made my own for 13b, copying it, and painted it high temp black.
Ended up deciding I'd rather see my intake/exhaust I also ceramic coated, so they're all sitting in my garage still.

Click the image to open in full size.

Door cards were pretty easy to do. Found some vinyl that matched the black/brown Rx8 seats (vinyl is called Cinnamon whisper) and only took about an hour to do both doors.
Also did shift/brake boots and re-covered center console lid.

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Old 11-30-12, 12:30 PM   #44
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@ jhereg, howd u ceramic coat your heat shield? Is it a spraycan job or you have some specialized equipment like a powdercoating machine? Nice interior job too!
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Old 12-02-12, 03:21 AM   #45
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Had the exhaust blasted locally, and I did the Cerakote.
Cerakote Coatings

The smell will kill a horse at 20', but was pretty easy to use. I used their air cure, and also got some of their chromex. I did not like the way the chromes came out. I don't have access to a big enough tumbler and I didn't spend a lot of time trying to polish it myself. Once I saw the exhaust done, I did the intake with it as well. I have some of both still leftover.

A friend and I went in on some of each. He's refinishing old camp stoves with it.
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Old 12-18-12, 11:06 AM   #46
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Well I changed my battery cables on my Rex, I removed the stock cables and upgraded to welding cable that I had laying in the garage.
Ill have to tell you that "wow" what a difference in startability and accessories being used now. The car turns over like u wouldn't believe, I can run my high beams and the a/c blower with hardly a noticeable drop in rpms.
This is probably the best upgrade I've done to this day, i reccomend everyone do this mod
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Old 12-18-12, 11:18 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotaryjunkee View Post
Well I changed my battery cables on my Rex, I removed the stock cables and upgraded to welding cable that I had laying in the garage.
Ill have to tell you that "wow" what a difference in startability and accessories being used now. The car turns over like u wouldn't believe, I can run my high beams and the a/c blower with hardly a noticeable drop in rpms.
This is probably the best upgrade I've done to this day, i reccomend everyone do this mod
Nicely done! I'm going to be re-doing a lot of the wiring during a wire tuck this winter - thanks for the words of encouragement! I'm also looking to add a relay switch system for the headlights.

What gauge is welding wire?
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Old 12-18-12, 07:59 PM   #48
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Nicely done! I'm going to be re-doing a lot of the wiring during a wire tuck this winter - thanks for the words of encouragement! I'm also looking to add a relay switch system for the headlights.

What gauge is welding wire?
It is 2/0 guage cable, best way to describe thickness is compare it to a 3/8 drive 11mm deep socket LOL.
This welding cable can transfer 250 amps of current, I'm a welder trust me I know
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Old 12-25-12, 09:55 AM   #49
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I decided to make more of a real CAI then what I have posted up earlier in this thread. This was pretty much free to me, but I have a pile of parts and t-bolt clamps laying around, or it would have added up.

I have braces that holds the MAF sensor and ducting in place, the filter mounts right underneath the header panel. I have driven it in the rain and didn't notice too much water around it. However since it is turning in the wet season around here I did add a water repellent prefilter. I may go back and add on of those filter universal heat shields as a splash shield until summer gets here.

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Old 12-25-12, 11:52 AM   #50
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I decided to make more of a real CAI then what I have posted up earlier in this thread. This was pretty much free to me, but I have a pile of parts and t-bolt clamps laying around, or it would have added up.

I have braces that holds the MAF sensor and ducting in place, the filter mounts right underneath the header panel. I have driven it in the rain and didn't notice too much water around it. However since it is turning in the wet season around here I did add a water repellent prefilter. I may go back and add on of those filter universal heat shields as a splash shield until summer gets here.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
That's pretty slick, ill have to add that to my projects to do list, once I finish my 2nd Gen oil cooler install that requires no welding and my halogen with led lights etc etc, then ill take a crack at that mod
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Old 12-25-12, 11:52 AM
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