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I saw you ripped off the foam and cover off your dash. How you planning to re-do that? I did that to my rx7 FD powered miata and I used flock. Came out well. Just a thought.
I saw you ripped off the foam and cover off your dash. How you planning to re-do that? I did that to my rx7 FD powered miata and I used flock. Came out well. Just a thought.
Nice project. Can't wait to see it done.
madmen
I think I am going to clean off the glue and leave it bare,
Ricsrx, https://www.flockit.com/
I buy all my flocking material from these guys. You could also search "automotive flocking" for a video.
I like it and after a few mistakes, it's pretty easy and simple to use.
Madmen
Ricsrx, https://www.flockit.com/
I buy all my flocking material from these guys. You could also search "automotive flocking" for a video.
I like it and after a few mistakes, it's pretty easy and simple to use.
Madmen
Mine was idling a tiny bit rough so I put a can of sea foam in her and drove her 120 miles to a WWII Battleship Memorial and back in one day. Used the whole tank of gas and the sea foam did its job well. Idles straight and steady at 750 rpm as smooth as silk again.
From the captains chair during battle maneuvers Kinda weird I think parking a rice grinder outside the memorial but I'm a rotor junkie Ain't she gorgeous? Yes it was a fun trip
Getting my SE ready for paint & want to make it as near new condition as i can. I noticed the driver door not closing as smoothly as it used to,pass side like new still. In doing some checking found slight amount of play in upper/lower hinges on driver door. Aware no new parts available,used likely have as much or more play than what i have already so started doing research on likely replacement door hinge pins/bushings. Dorman #38397 pin bushing kit intended for use on mid 80s Nissan Pathfinder is a very close match. Bought a couple,removed door from hinges and pulled far enough away to access hinge bolts inside front fender without removing it. I supported the door on a milk crate,some wood blocks and fender cover. Lowered the window couple inches before took door off strapped top of door to eyebolts in ceiling with motorcycle tie down straps passed around upper door frame thru open window to hold door in position about 6"away from fender(poped out p/window wiring grommet in door to allow door to move away and 90 degrees to car to be able to get at hinge bolts. When removed hinges from car,it's apparent when car is built the hinges are installed before any paint goes on car. Back side of both hinges was still shiny metal. The attaching area for the hinges on the body had slight surface rust which i cleaned up,treated with POR-15 and finished with Rustoleum top coat. Using a dremel with carbide bit,ground down swedge on bottom of hinge pin and drove pin out,removed bushings and degreased door hinge pieces. Inspecting all the pieces it's apparent the original hinge pins wore more than the ushings which shows in the pics. Had to make replacement pin supplied in kit work with new bushings by cutting down both ends til remaining dimensions were as close to oe as possible. Hinges are done and back on car,door yet to be reattached. Ran out of time tonight,neighbor not available til tomorrow to help in steadying door,will finish tomorrow. Some pics...
Kinda weird I think parking a rice grinder outside the memorial but I'm a rotor junkie
I think about stuff like that a bunch... I have owned a few Subarus, a lot of Mazdas, and my current car is a license-built Mitsubishi, and my grandfather spent a lot of time on a tin can in the Pacific, probably getting shot at by other people in Nakajima and Mitsubishi products...
OTOH, he also left some family behind in various fields in Europe, and I've pared myself down to only owning two Volkswagens.
Currently prepping my new disk brake rear end for some much needed paint.
I can't decide on a color though. I will have some orange Koni mustang shocks to put in along with it. Any suggestions on something to go with the orange shocks preferably something other than black? Although, orange and black is not a bad color combination. Could repaint the watts links orange as well...
Need to order some new bearings, seals, and brake pads. FedEx just dropped off new rotors and moog idler arm so i have plenty of work ahead of me still.
What are you using to strip the rust and paint? I need to do the same.
Using a sander with 100 and 150 grit paper, an angle grinder to smooth some of the factory welding spatter, and then just a wire brush for the hard to reach places.
Last edited by stranger; 02-26-17 at 11:05 PM.
Reason: Typos
I celebrated wrapping up the main drivetrain/suspension/exhaust project by doing something fun to the inside. I've been wanting to swap out my gauge overlays with something a little easier to see but nothing cheesie.
I have a Burgundy interior, so kinda liked this color overlay from whitegauges.
I also checked out the ebay selection and think the white with red and black text look nice. They're also "reverse indiglo" so they're easy to read in the dark and figured I'd
give them a shot. I like 'em:
They advertise them as "6 color" but that's schenanigans... you get a toggle from blue to fugly green, that's it. Brightness is controlled by a small pot that also houses the blue/green switch. I like the blue so I really don't mind. The product is pretty good considering it was 29bux shipped.
I'm also upgrading to LEDs so replaced the green turn lenses with transparent white. I'll have to take another pic when they're installed with the needles, odo and trip meter lit up w/the amber LEDs.
It needs more work than I can comprehend... but it's all there. Sadly I can't post it here until I reach the 10 post limit so it's up elsewhere right now.
Not today but last night.. I am removing the 12a from my 79 rx. I broke it down removed everything, to the point that it is ready to be picked up. I was excited by this point, I finally got to get dirty under the hood again.... And went to pull the last flywheel bolt (they are a bitch by the way) and the head is starting to round off... I cant get anything but a 14mm offset in there and the offset is still not enough to clear the back of the starter hole. Now I am kicking the tires and such because it went so well to this point..
TL;DR last bolt holding engine in rounding out, ready to tie engine to a truck and drag it until it comes out....
02-05-17, 08:23 PM
