What did you do to your FB today?
#6381
This was two nights ago, but I finally got to replacing my driver side window! No more going home from the lady's in the cold anymore!
Now to attempt to replace the master/slave clutch cylinders
Now to attempt to replace the master/slave clutch cylinders
#6384
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
I hit 110 mph on the parkway in the early morning. I didn't know the car could go that fast. Then waxed the top and rear. Took my 20 minutes to apply the wax, and 40 min to remove. Turtle wax paste did revive the faded, oxidized worn paint.
Next big project is flames. Rattle can flames. I figure technique and skill will beat facilities. Suggestions anyone?
Next big project is flames. Rattle can flames. I figure technique and skill will beat facilities. Suggestions anyone?
Last edited by midnight mechanic; 11-26-16 at 06:25 AM.
#6386
Rotary Onigiri
iTrader: (9)
Speaking of abuse, after losing an apex seal at Sevenstock, I am now pulling the engine for a rebuild. This evening I plucked it out with my Harbor Freight engine hoist. Don't usually go for cheap tools, but this got the job done.
fm
#6387
Old [Sch|F]ool
I either adopted it a new brother, or I brought it home, depending on your point of view.
I now own two of the three RX-7s to have won a National Championship. Gotta catch 'em all.
I now own two of the three RX-7s to have won a National Championship. Gotta catch 'em all.
#6388
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Trying a "new" look with PlastiDip wheels....
Testing the appearance of my Konig Rewinds using black PlastiDip on the wheel and white on the rim.
My main takeaway from the experience: if I end up going this route, it will be done professionally...
I'm interested in opinions from this board: what do you think of the white rim/black wheel appearance vs. the stock chrome rim/graphite wheel?
Personally I like the flat matte look with the plastidip (or I could get them painted) over the stock look; but interested in other opinions.
Thoughts?
PlastiDip front...
[I]Yes...I know...shitty job...
My main takeaway from the experience: if I end up going this route, it will be done professionally...
I'm interested in opinions from this board: what do you think of the white rim/black wheel appearance vs. the stock chrome rim/graphite wheel?
Personally I like the flat matte look with the plastidip (or I could get them painted) over the stock look; but interested in other opinions.
Thoughts?
PlastiDip front...
[I]Yes...I know...shitty job...
#6391
ancient wizard...
Me too! REALLY wish they were available with proper offset for my SE. Had aTR6 years ago with Minilite wheels,loved the look of those wheels. The Konigs are really close in appearance & look period correct for the RX7. Looked at Superlites,searching everywhere on internet,have found wheels that would fit,but wouldn't look right on the car. Lots of dead ends...
#6392
Old [Sch|F]ool
Did some investigating on my new purchase.
Firstly, engine condition was "might be bad, I parked it and never looked into it." So yanked plugs and looked through the leading plug holes. All apex seals appear to be there and the rotor tips and faces show no FOD damage, good signs. Couldn't find any carb cleaner, so sprayed penetrating oil at each seal and attacked the inoperative door. After a few minutes of work, realized that Mazda didn't use clips on the window crank, so my bringing my window clip tool was completely unneccessary. Door handle is, in fact, broken, as I'd assumed, and both ends are broken so it probably has a half-broken one on the passenger side.
Went back to the engine, put a battery in the car and turned the key on. Fuel pump running, OH SHI---!!!! The fuel in the tank isn't good enough to be varnish and I just pumped a bunch of it into the carburetor. It's dark brown in color in the formerly empty see-through fuel filter under the hood. Crap! Someone must have unplugged the emissions controller. Dig in fusebox, unplug fuel pump fuse, crank engine. It's unsteady. With the front rotor plugged and the rear leading out, I get three solid pulses. With the rear rotor plugged and the front leading out, I get one kinda-sorta pulse and two nothings. I added some more penetrating oil and let it go for the evening as the battery I had was running down.
Tomorrow: Put a charger on the battery, add more oil to the front rotor, and pump the crappy old gasoline out of the fuel tank.
Firstly, engine condition was "might be bad, I parked it and never looked into it." So yanked plugs and looked through the leading plug holes. All apex seals appear to be there and the rotor tips and faces show no FOD damage, good signs. Couldn't find any carb cleaner, so sprayed penetrating oil at each seal and attacked the inoperative door. After a few minutes of work, realized that Mazda didn't use clips on the window crank, so my bringing my window clip tool was completely unneccessary. Door handle is, in fact, broken, as I'd assumed, and both ends are broken so it probably has a half-broken one on the passenger side.
Went back to the engine, put a battery in the car and turned the key on. Fuel pump running, OH SHI---!!!! The fuel in the tank isn't good enough to be varnish and I just pumped a bunch of it into the carburetor. It's dark brown in color in the formerly empty see-through fuel filter under the hood. Crap! Someone must have unplugged the emissions controller. Dig in fusebox, unplug fuel pump fuse, crank engine. It's unsteady. With the front rotor plugged and the rear leading out, I get three solid pulses. With the rear rotor plugged and the front leading out, I get one kinda-sorta pulse and two nothings. I added some more penetrating oil and let it go for the evening as the battery I had was running down.
Tomorrow: Put a charger on the battery, add more oil to the front rotor, and pump the crappy old gasoline out of the fuel tank.
#6394
Old [Sch|F]ool
Most likely not for a variety of reasons.
1. I gave all of my Nikki related paraphernalia to a local RX-7 enthusiast a few years back.
2. This car's history is as having competed in the Prepared category in RallyCross. You are not allowed to modify the carburetor or intake manifold, but you are allowed to replace the OE carb/manifold. So perversely, it wouldn't be legal to put an '80 carb on it (best. carb. evar.) and one of my modified '81-85 manifolds, but it would be perfectly cromulent to install a Lake Cities manifold and a 48 DHLA.
Which is something I've wanted to try out for a long time.
By the rules, removing the air pump isn't legal either. I'm either going to hunt down the written installation manual for the Mind-Train header on the car (good luck!) for written proof that air pump removal is part of the approved procedure for header installation, or bolt an airpump on if I can find one, even if it doesn't actually go to anything.
1. I gave all of my Nikki related paraphernalia to a local RX-7 enthusiast a few years back.
2. This car's history is as having competed in the Prepared category in RallyCross. You are not allowed to modify the carburetor or intake manifold, but you are allowed to replace the OE carb/manifold. So perversely, it wouldn't be legal to put an '80 carb on it (best. carb. evar.) and one of my modified '81-85 manifolds, but it would be perfectly cromulent to install a Lake Cities manifold and a 48 DHLA.
Which is something I've wanted to try out for a long time.
By the rules, removing the air pump isn't legal either. I'm either going to hunt down the written installation manual for the Mind-Train header on the car (good luck!) for written proof that air pump removal is part of the approved procedure for header installation, or bolt an airpump on if I can find one, even if it doesn't actually go to anything.
Last edited by peejay; 12-09-16 at 04:45 PM.
#6395
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
And this is why I don't do racing. I don't like to be bound by useless rules. Of course I understand why they are there, to keep things competitive and all that, but it gets me so lugubrious I just have to shake my head and walk away.
Requiring wipers even though your car is not required to have a windshield... That's like dividing by zero. Head explodes.
Requiring wipers even though your car is not required to have a windshield... That's like dividing by zero. Head explodes.
#6396
Old [Sch|F]ool
The rules for RallyCross are actually pretty simple. Stock means STOCK, aside from comfort/convenience additions and maintenance/repair items. Prepared is stock plus bolt-on things, but you can't open the engine, change any drivetrain parts aside from one differential, remove any interior or exterior stuff, or relocate suspension. Basically Modified is, it must still look like the car you say it is, past that anything goes beyond some sanity-check rules. (The doors still must function if there is a seat there, no fuel/coolant/oil lines in the cabin unless they are as-factory, etc)
I already have one Modified car, I don't need two Of course my Volvo that has some minor tasteful upgrades happens to also mesh with the Prepared rules (and IMO the class theme) so when I take it out to play it runs in Prepared. So I guess I have two Prepared cars now. Coincidentally enough the wheels for the RX-7 fit the Volvo.
I already have one Modified car, I don't need two Of course my Volvo that has some minor tasteful upgrades happens to also mesh with the Prepared rules (and IMO the class theme) so when I take it out to play it runs in Prepared. So I guess I have two Prepared cars now. Coincidentally enough the wheels for the RX-7 fit the Volvo.
#6397
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
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Most likely not for a variety of reasons.
1. I gave all of my Nikki related paraphernalia to a local RX-7 enthusiast a few years back.
2. This car's history is as having competed in the Prepared category in RallyCross. You are not allowed to modify the carburetor or intake manifold, but you are allowed to replace the OE carb/manifold. So perversely, it wouldn't be legal to put an '80 carb on it (best. carb. evar.) and one of my modified '81-85 manifolds, but it would be perfectly cromulent to install a Lake Cities manifold and a 48 DHLA.
Which is something I've wanted to try out for a long time.
By the rules, removing the air pump isn't legal either. I'm either going to hunt down the written installation manual for the Mind-Train header on the car (good luck!) for written proof that air pump removal is part of the approved procedure for header installation, or bolt an airpump on if I can find one, even if it doesn't actually go to anything.
1. I gave all of my Nikki related paraphernalia to a local RX-7 enthusiast a few years back.
2. This car's history is as having competed in the Prepared category in RallyCross. You are not allowed to modify the carburetor or intake manifold, but you are allowed to replace the OE carb/manifold. So perversely, it wouldn't be legal to put an '80 carb on it (best. carb. evar.) and one of my modified '81-85 manifolds, but it would be perfectly cromulent to install a Lake Cities manifold and a 48 DHLA.
Which is something I've wanted to try out for a long time.
By the rules, removing the air pump isn't legal either. I'm either going to hunt down the written installation manual for the Mind-Train header on the car (good luck!) for written proof that air pump removal is part of the approved procedure for header installation, or bolt an airpump on if I can find one, even if it doesn't actually go to anything.
#6398
Old [Sch|F]ool
My first experience with a big two-barrel carb was a customer's '80 that turned out to have a Lake Cities and a 45 DCOE. I was shocked, the drivability was identical to my bone-stock '80.
The key thing will be if I can incorporate the A/C idle-up solenoid to the carburetor.
The key thing will be if I can incorporate the A/C idle-up solenoid to the carburetor.
#6399
Moderator
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#6400
Old [Sch|F]ool
Don't say that!!!
The fun part is the A/C pulley on the crank is missing, and it sounds like the compressor hub is noisy. This is, IMO, a Sign that the compressor should be updated to a modern one. The fittings look like generic A/C fittings so it shouldn't be that difficult.
The fun part is the A/C pulley on the crank is missing, and it sounds like the compressor hub is noisy. This is, IMO, a Sign that the compressor should be updated to a modern one. The fittings look like generic A/C fittings so it shouldn't be that difficult.