Stockport 12a turbo? OR turbo II???
01-11-17, 10:17 PM
#1
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Stockport 12a turbo? OR turbo II???
Hi guys I've been tossing around the idea of modifying my rx7. My daily driver is a turbo diesel truck, and I just really like the way a turbo reacts and feels. I found a T3/4 turbo with intercooler, carb, and exhaust manifold for $700. It seems pretty tempting to buy. My Rx7 is 100% stock with 150,000 miles, it now leaks a little coolant from intake the manifold. Would it be possible to install this turbo and carb onto my stockport rx7? I also have found a complete turbo II engine for $1,200. Would it be easier/better to buy the turbo II engine and swap it for my warn-out 12a engine? Or just buy the turbo kit?
My only doubts on the turbo II engine is the fuel injection, I think I would much rather have a carburetor than a computerized fuel injection.
If anyone has any suggestions that would be nice
My only doubts on the turbo II engine is the fuel injection, I think I would much rather have a carburetor than a computerized fuel injection.
If anyone has any suggestions that would be nice
01-11-17, 11:13 PM
#2
if its a complete kit and you dont want to mess with the fuel injection? why not.
if your engine is worn out and you know it then why bother?
in the end, the 12A won't make as much power but it is a better engine for boost if it is healthy and modified properly. the 13B, well, it really depends on if it has been rebuilt and who did it. you could be buying a can of worms. there is no easy answer, but i will say the turbo FC engine will cost you more to setup the FI than you anticipate on paper and longer than you think to swap and get running.
if you have a source for a spare 12A then just keeping it carb and turbo would probably be easier in the long run.
all in all, i try to just stick with the theme of the car, the FB 12A cars are carbureted. not to say switching to FI isn't a great improvement, because it is, but it is a project undertaking in and of itself.
a stock port 12a also only flows about 65% of the 13BT, porting it for turbo would be a good idea. if the intent is to just have fun with the car while experimenting, i don't see the harm, but keep in mind a turbo won't be very tolerant of lots of chrome missing in your combustion pocket(compression losses) and will start to rack up detonation events quickly with higher boost.
if your engine is worn out and you know it then why bother?
in the end, the 12A won't make as much power but it is a better engine for boost if it is healthy and modified properly. the 13B, well, it really depends on if it has been rebuilt and who did it. you could be buying a can of worms. there is no easy answer, but i will say the turbo FC engine will cost you more to setup the FI than you anticipate on paper and longer than you think to swap and get running.
if you have a source for a spare 12A then just keeping it carb and turbo would probably be easier in the long run.
all in all, i try to just stick with the theme of the car, the FB 12A cars are carbureted. not to say switching to FI isn't a great improvement, because it is, but it is a project undertaking in and of itself.
a stock port 12a also only flows about 65% of the 13BT, porting it for turbo would be a good idea. if the intent is to just have fun with the car while experimenting, i don't see the harm, but keep in mind a turbo won't be very tolerant of lots of chrome missing in your combustion pocket(compression losses) and will start to rack up detonation events quickly with higher boost.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-11-17 at 11:23 PM.
01-12-17, 11:17 AM
#3
Carb kit 100%.
Do the kit get it all installed and roughly tune it. Work out all the bugs (there will be lots). Then rebuild your engine.
I agree with RotaryEvolution, the FB is a carbureted vehicle. So shall it be writ so shall it be done.
Do the kit get it all installed and roughly tune it. Work out all the bugs (there will be lots). Then rebuild your engine.
I agree with RotaryEvolution, the FB is a carbureted vehicle. So shall it be writ so shall it be done.
01-12-17, 12:23 PM
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Thank y'all so much for the replies! I'm not looking for tons of power and I love to tinker with a carb. and I like what RotaryEvolution said about keeping the theme of the car. I think I'm going to stick with the 12A and buy the turbo kit. Correct me if I'm wrong, I will need a front mounted oil cooler (I have a 1984 gs with the honey comb cooler), and a strong fuel pump with regulator, and lots of other things I can probably find on other forums.
I found a spare 12A engine and transmission for sale that I will probably buy and rebuild after I put together my turbo kit.
Would anyone recommend me keeping the stock nikki carb, or use the holley carb it comes with?
I found a spare 12A engine and transmission for sale that I will probably buy and rebuild after I put together my turbo kit.
Would anyone recommend me keeping the stock nikki carb, or use the holley carb it comes with?
01-12-17, 01:25 PM
#5
What kind of kit are we talking about?
You'll need a boost referenced FPR. One that can raise the fuel pressure at the same rate that boost pressure rises at. Mallory 4309 is what everybody uses.
Fuel pump needs to be stronger. MSD2225 is a good one.
Stock fuel return lines need to be larger.
Your ignition needs to be tweeked and you need to limit the amount of advancement.
As long as your car keeps cool I don't see the issue sticking with a bee hive, but I'd keep an eye on oil temps.
I personally like the Nikki. But I'm not running a lot of boost. I imagine if you get crazy with it you might need a bigger carb, but the Nikki seems adequate for the factory S4&S5 turbos.
If it comes with a boost prepped ready to rock Holley and you're not wanting to tinker. Run the holley.
You'll need a boost referenced FPR. One that can raise the fuel pressure at the same rate that boost pressure rises at. Mallory 4309 is what everybody uses.
Fuel pump needs to be stronger. MSD2225 is a good one.
Stock fuel return lines need to be larger.
Your ignition needs to be tweeked and you need to limit the amount of advancement.
As long as your car keeps cool I don't see the issue sticking with a bee hive, but I'd keep an eye on oil temps.
I personally like the Nikki. But I'm not running a lot of boost. I imagine if you get crazy with it you might need a bigger carb, but the Nikki seems adequate for the factory S4&S5 turbos.
If it comes with a boost prepped ready to rock Holley and you're not wanting to tinker. Run the holley.
01-12-17, 02:50 PM
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if its a complete kit and you dont want to mess with the fuel injection? why not.
if your engine is worn out and you know it then why bother?
in the end, the 12A won't make as much power but it is a better engine for boost if it is healthy and modified properly. the 13B, well, it really depends on if it has been rebuilt and who did it. you could be buying a can of worms. there is no easy answer, but i will say the turbo FC engine will cost you more to setup the FI than you anticipate on paper and longer than you think to swap and get running.
if you have a source for a spare 12A then just keeping it carb and turbo would probably be easier in the long run.
all in all, i try to just stick with the theme of the car, the FB 12A cars are carbureted. not to say switching to FI isn't a great improvement, because it is, but it is a project undertaking in and of itself.
a stock port 12a also only flows about 65% of the 13BT, porting it for turbo would be a good idea. if the intent is to just have fun with the car while experimenting, i don't see the harm, but keep in mind a turbo won't be very tolerant of lots of chrome missing in your combustion pocket(compression losses) and will start to rack up detonation events quickly with higher boost.
if your engine is worn out and you know it then why bother?
in the end, the 12A won't make as much power but it is a better engine for boost if it is healthy and modified properly. the 13B, well, it really depends on if it has been rebuilt and who did it. you could be buying a can of worms. there is no easy answer, but i will say the turbo FC engine will cost you more to setup the FI than you anticipate on paper and longer than you think to swap and get running.
if you have a source for a spare 12A then just keeping it carb and turbo would probably be easier in the long run.
all in all, i try to just stick with the theme of the car, the FB 12A cars are carbureted. not to say switching to FI isn't a great improvement, because it is, but it is a project undertaking in and of itself.
a stock port 12a also only flows about 65% of the 13BT, porting it for turbo would be a good idea. if the intent is to just have fun with the car while experimenting, i don't see the harm, but keep in mind a turbo won't be very tolerant of lots of chrome missing in your combustion pocket(compression losses) and will start to rack up detonation events quickly with higher boost.
When you say stock fuel lines need to be larger, does that mean I will just replace the fuel hose with larger hose?
Also I wanted to use a manual boost controller. (just because I enjoy non-computerized) any reasons why I shouldn't use one?
01-12-17, 04:36 PM
#7
Thank you for the good information, and specific parts to buy! I'm not exactly buying a "kit," I found a guy selling a 12A turbo manifold (Not sure if its fabricated or from a turbo rx7) with the intercooler, Holley carb, and all the boost tubes. I really don't want to make crazy amounts of boost or hp, because large boost usually brings large problems with it.
When you say stock fuel lines need to be larger, does that mean I will just replace the fuel hose with larger hose?
Also I wanted to use a manual boost controller. (just because I enjoy non-computerized) any reasons why I shouldn't use one?
When you say stock fuel lines need to be larger, does that mean I will just replace the fuel hose with larger hose?
Also I wanted to use a manual boost controller. (just because I enjoy non-computerized) any reasons why I shouldn't use one?
There is nothing computerized in a turbo. The waste gate controls the amount of pressure in the charged pipes. Boost controllers just let you change the point in which the waste gate activates. This is done with springs and screws and hoses.
External waste gates can be set to dump exhaust gasses away from the exhaust wheel at different pressure levels by changing the springs inside of them.
Internal waste gates require a boost controller to limit the pressure signal from reaching the waste gate; in effect raising the amount of pressure the turbo is able to build by keeping the exhaust gasses routed through the turbine as apposed to out the waste gate.
Last edited by Qingdao; 01-12-17 at 04:38 PM.
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01-13-17, 09:51 PM
#11
something has been through the turbo, it probably should be rebalanced at the very least. but the fact the fins are chewed up means it won't be as efficient as a good turbo would, most rebuilders would chuck that housing and wheel.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-13-17 at 09:53 PM.
