(CLUTCH) How To: Change your Clutch Master and Clutch slave
11-12-09, 09:47 PM
#1
(CLUTCH) How To: Change your Clutch Master and Clutch slave
Well after doing a search on here with zero results on anything concerning that I thought I should do a write up. I might include pictures later on, but we'll see if I have time for that or not.
Tools needed:
3/8" Drive or smaller 12mm sockets
10mm Flare or regular wrench
8mm wrench
12mm wrench
17mm wrench
extension (about 10" long)
Socket caps (makes life a bit easier), if you don't know what those are, here's a picture of them:
First thing to do is unscrew the hard line from the Flex hose that goes to the slave cylinder, and then from the body of the Master cylinder. Spraying them before hand with a lubricant like Honey Goo or PB blaster should help you out a bit here.
Once thats out the way the second step is now removing the clutch slave from the transmission. To do so grab your 12mm socket and a long extension, and procede on removing the 2 bolts that hold it in from either side. Once out, you can pull the clutch slave with the flex hose attached to it out. If you're re-using the flex hose, you will need to remove it from slave with a 17mm wrench. Make sure the crush washer it still on there, or buy another one. Another thing you most likely will have to re-use is the pin inside the old slave cylinder. To do that you just need to lift up the rubber on the pin and pull it out. Now attach the flex hose and pin on the new cylinder, and rebolt up to the tranny.
A few tips, don't overtighten the bolts on the tranny as the tranny is aluminum and will strip very easily, a light snug is all you want. Also make sure you line up the pin properly on the clutch fork when installing otherwise it might shoot out.
Now for the master cylinder, if where the clutch pedal is inside the car you will notice that there are 2 nuts holding the master cylinder in. They are both 12mm. The lower one you can just get it out with a socket and flex joint, but for the top one you will have to remove the connecting rod for the clutch master. For this you will need both the 12mm and 10mm wrench. The nut that is closer to the pedal is a 12mm and is just a jam nut, so just crack it loose. The second one is part of the rod itself and is used to unscrew the whole rod from the clutch pedal piece. When its unscrewed, to get it off what you will need to do is push the rod in as if you're pushing the master cylinder and then work it out. Now you have a bit more room to get to the top nut. The way i did it was using the 12mm socket and the socket cap with a ratcheting wrench on it. Once out, you can go back to the engine bay and pull it out now. Might have to wiggle it a bit to loosen it up. Re-installation is just in the reverse order.
A few more tips: Don't push on your clutch pedal when the hard line is disonnected unless you feel like covering your car with brake fluid. Placing a rag or something ontop fo the exposed whole will prevent something like that from happening. Also when you take out the rod inside the car, if you push it in gently, it won't spray everywhere.
Now you can reconnect your hard line on there, and double check that everything is tight. Once all checked out, you can procede to bleeding the clutch now. This is really easy to do with one person. Fill the reservoise with DOT3 brake fuild to the top, then open up the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder with an 8mm wrench. You can either put a clear hose on there to see any bubbles or just a rag ontop of the bleeder screw, so it doesn't spray every where. With my hand i pushed the pedal back and forth (the pedal won't come back up by itself at this stage) until you feel it get harder. When it gets hard that usually mean you've filled up the whole system with fluid, and then you can close up the bleeder screw. Pump the pedal about 20 times by foot to make sure no leaks are visible, and then crack open the bleeder screw one more time, and give it just one pump to make sure that any remaining air pockets are driven out. And you're all done
I hope this helps out somebody in the future.
Tools needed:
3/8" Drive or smaller 12mm sockets
10mm Flare or regular wrench
8mm wrench
12mm wrench
17mm wrench
extension (about 10" long)
Socket caps (makes life a bit easier), if you don't know what those are, here's a picture of them:
First thing to do is unscrew the hard line from the Flex hose that goes to the slave cylinder, and then from the body of the Master cylinder. Spraying them before hand with a lubricant like Honey Goo or PB blaster should help you out a bit here.
Once thats out the way the second step is now removing the clutch slave from the transmission. To do so grab your 12mm socket and a long extension, and procede on removing the 2 bolts that hold it in from either side. Once out, you can pull the clutch slave with the flex hose attached to it out. If you're re-using the flex hose, you will need to remove it from slave with a 17mm wrench. Make sure the crush washer it still on there, or buy another one. Another thing you most likely will have to re-use is the pin inside the old slave cylinder. To do that you just need to lift up the rubber on the pin and pull it out. Now attach the flex hose and pin on the new cylinder, and rebolt up to the tranny.
A few tips, don't overtighten the bolts on the tranny as the tranny is aluminum and will strip very easily, a light snug is all you want. Also make sure you line up the pin properly on the clutch fork when installing otherwise it might shoot out.
Now for the master cylinder, if where the clutch pedal is inside the car you will notice that there are 2 nuts holding the master cylinder in. They are both 12mm. The lower one you can just get it out with a socket and flex joint, but for the top one you will have to remove the connecting rod for the clutch master. For this you will need both the 12mm and 10mm wrench. The nut that is closer to the pedal is a 12mm and is just a jam nut, so just crack it loose. The second one is part of the rod itself and is used to unscrew the whole rod from the clutch pedal piece. When its unscrewed, to get it off what you will need to do is push the rod in as if you're pushing the master cylinder and then work it out. Now you have a bit more room to get to the top nut. The way i did it was using the 12mm socket and the socket cap with a ratcheting wrench on it. Once out, you can go back to the engine bay and pull it out now. Might have to wiggle it a bit to loosen it up. Re-installation is just in the reverse order.
A few more tips: Don't push on your clutch pedal when the hard line is disonnected unless you feel like covering your car with brake fluid. Placing a rag or something ontop fo the exposed whole will prevent something like that from happening. Also when you take out the rod inside the car, if you push it in gently, it won't spray everywhere.
Now you can reconnect your hard line on there, and double check that everything is tight. Once all checked out, you can procede to bleeding the clutch now. This is really easy to do with one person. Fill the reservoise with DOT3 brake fuild to the top, then open up the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder with an 8mm wrench. You can either put a clear hose on there to see any bubbles or just a rag ontop of the bleeder screw, so it doesn't spray every where. With my hand i pushed the pedal back and forth (the pedal won't come back up by itself at this stage) until you feel it get harder. When it gets hard that usually mean you've filled up the whole system with fluid, and then you can close up the bleeder screw. Pump the pedal about 20 times by foot to make sure no leaks are visible, and then crack open the bleeder screw one more time, and give it just one pump to make sure that any remaining air pockets are driven out. And you're all done
I hope this helps out somebody in the future.
11-13-09, 06:12 AM
#2
There are pictures on my website.
http://intertron.com/ron/ch.html
http://intertron.com/ron/ch.html
11-16-09, 09:16 AM
#3
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Great idea on the socket caps. I had never thought of those before.
I pull the master first, and leave the hose connected. Bit more of a PITA to get the hose off afterwards, but at least I am not shooting brake fluid all over.
I pull the master first, and leave the hose connected. Bit more of a PITA to get the hose off afterwards, but at least I am not shooting brake fluid all over.
11-17-09, 12:47 PM
#5
That's a good price on slaves. I'll have to remember that. I got one of the last '79-'80 ones from Mazdatrix for like 30 dollars. Their rebuild kits are around 25 bucks.
I needed the '79-'80 type for my REPU. Coarse threads. The old one was shot so I didn't want to rebuild it. I have rebuilt all the others so far. Good preventive maintenance when they show the first signs of wetness around the boot.
I needed the '79-'80 type for my REPU. Coarse threads. The old one was shot so I didn't want to rebuild it. I have rebuilt all the others so far. Good preventive maintenance when they show the first signs of wetness around the boot.
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