(AUDIO) Building a stereo line-in port on an S1/S2 stock Clarion
07-31-07, 12:31 AM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Huntersville, NC and occasionally back in Freeport, NY
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
(AUDIO) Building a stereo line-in port on an S1/S2 stock Clarion
This turned out to be far easier than I was expecting, but before I get to that, I'm going to give a little background research information. Here are the connector pinouts for the factory tape deck, the wire colors and measurements are specific to an SA cassette deck:
Power connector on back of tape deck, male side:
(If you don't have a tape deck, this connector would be plugged into the back of the storage tray in the radio surround)
R is +12V in
Y is +12V in for powering the marker lights
Br is power out to head unit
Chassis is ground
Audio connector to back of head unit, male side:
If looking at the 5 pin din with the row of pins on the bottom,
R Y Grd Bk W
R has a relatively high resistance to ground when the tape deck is latched (22kOhm) and a low resistance when unlatched (28 Ohm).
R goes high when tape is latched, grounded otherwise, 0.40Ohm resistance to positive when latched
Y is the left channel, Bk the right channel
W has 3.4kOhm resistance to ground, isolated from positive when unlatched, 3.4kOhm resistance to positive when latched - goes high (+11.8V) when latched, 0V when unlatched. I have not done enough research to figure out the function of this wire.
When a tape is inserted into the unit, it diverts power from Br and instead powers the amp through R of the audio connector. In this state, the power button on the head unit is no longer functional and the band indicator light goes off (AM/FM light). However, just putting an impedance across the audio in lines will cause the head unit to switch over from the radio to that signal. The FM or AM light will remain lit and the power switch on the head unit will still be functional. What this means is that simply plugging in another audio device will cause the radio to go quiet and play your sounds instead. This method is not fullproof, the input device may have be unplugged and replugged before the head unit recognizes the different signal, you may be stuck with a shadow sound, but building the connection is much simpler.
That said, there are two ways to go about building the connection. You can build a simple direct cable, or you can build a switching unit that goes the extra step of putting the head unit into "tape mode". I will discuss both. The second method is a little more complicated, but may be necessary for your application if your head unit is finicky and/or your intended input device has an extremely high impedance. In this scenario, if you go the first route you'll hear a mix of the radio signal and your input. Test your setup before you commit to it. You have been warned. It worked fine for me so I went with the first type of connection.
The connector
Fortunately for us, the type of connector used on the back of the head unit is the exact type of connector used on old AT keyboards (the one's with the big round plug), so sourcing a connector should be no problem. Just go to a computer store and buy a "PS/2 to AT keyboard adaptor," or scrap an old keyboard. Furthurmore, if you already have a tape deck and are worried about having to disconnect it for this, don't! Just in case you wanted both a cassette player AND an 8 track player (or reel-to-reel or record player) in you car, the designers included two audio ports on the back of the head unit.
For the first method, all you need now is an audio connector of your choice and a moderate length of three conductor wire. Wire up your connector to the din connector using the above diagram as your guide. Y is the left channel, Bk is the right channel, and Grd is, well, your ground. You can mount your connector however you choose. Me, I chose to just let the wire, with a 1/8" male stereo mini-plug, hang out the back and wrap around the RHS of the console.
There are several was to go about the second method. The simplest way would be to install a switch that directs power from R of the power connector to either Br or R of the audio connector. Using this switch you could manually put the head unit in "tape mode." So you can keep your device plugged in all the time, made the switch of a TPDT variety and have it control the right/left lines as well as the power. Alternatively, you can get a sensing type of audio receptacle that has a ground switch. In these connectors, there is a extra pin that is shorted to ground (or vice versa depending on the connector) when there is no plug inserted. With this type of connector, you could wire a relay directly to that pin and use it to divert power. The rest, wiring up the audio signal, is the same as in the first method.
The audio quality was suprisingly good for my 27 year old head unit. I was shocked when plugged in my mp3 player, given the sound of it's radio reception. With new speakers, it may even be comparable to todays audio systems.
Power connector on back of tape deck, male side:
(If you don't have a tape deck, this connector would be plugged into the back of the storage tray in the radio surround)
HTML Code:
<pre> ___---___ | - R - | | - Y Br| |_________| </pre>
Y is +12V in for powering the marker lights
Br is power out to head unit
Chassis is ground
Audio connector to back of head unit, male side:
HTML Code:
<pre> _ _ = U = = = = = = R W = = Y Bk = = Grd = - - </pre>
R Y Grd Bk W
R has a relatively high resistance to ground when the tape deck is latched (22kOhm) and a low resistance when unlatched (28 Ohm).
R goes high when tape is latched, grounded otherwise, 0.40Ohm resistance to positive when latched
Y is the left channel, Bk the right channel
W has 3.4kOhm resistance to ground, isolated from positive when unlatched, 3.4kOhm resistance to positive when latched - goes high (+11.8V) when latched, 0V when unlatched. I have not done enough research to figure out the function of this wire.
When a tape is inserted into the unit, it diverts power from Br and instead powers the amp through R of the audio connector. In this state, the power button on the head unit is no longer functional and the band indicator light goes off (AM/FM light). However, just putting an impedance across the audio in lines will cause the head unit to switch over from the radio to that signal. The FM or AM light will remain lit and the power switch on the head unit will still be functional. What this means is that simply plugging in another audio device will cause the radio to go quiet and play your sounds instead. This method is not fullproof, the input device may have be unplugged and replugged before the head unit recognizes the different signal, you may be stuck with a shadow sound, but building the connection is much simpler.
That said, there are two ways to go about building the connection. You can build a simple direct cable, or you can build a switching unit that goes the extra step of putting the head unit into "tape mode". I will discuss both. The second method is a little more complicated, but may be necessary for your application if your head unit is finicky and/or your intended input device has an extremely high impedance. In this scenario, if you go the first route you'll hear a mix of the radio signal and your input. Test your setup before you commit to it. You have been warned. It worked fine for me so I went with the first type of connection.
The connector
Fortunately for us, the type of connector used on the back of the head unit is the exact type of connector used on old AT keyboards (the one's with the big round plug), so sourcing a connector should be no problem. Just go to a computer store and buy a "PS/2 to AT keyboard adaptor," or scrap an old keyboard. Furthurmore, if you already have a tape deck and are worried about having to disconnect it for this, don't! Just in case you wanted both a cassette player AND an 8 track player (or reel-to-reel or record player) in you car, the designers included two audio ports on the back of the head unit.
For the first method, all you need now is an audio connector of your choice and a moderate length of three conductor wire. Wire up your connector to the din connector using the above diagram as your guide. Y is the left channel, Bk is the right channel, and Grd is, well, your ground. You can mount your connector however you choose. Me, I chose to just let the wire, with a 1/8" male stereo mini-plug, hang out the back and wrap around the RHS of the console.
There are several was to go about the second method. The simplest way would be to install a switch that directs power from R of the power connector to either Br or R of the audio connector. Using this switch you could manually put the head unit in "tape mode." So you can keep your device plugged in all the time, made the switch of a TPDT variety and have it control the right/left lines as well as the power. Alternatively, you can get a sensing type of audio receptacle that has a ground switch. In these connectors, there is a extra pin that is shorted to ground (or vice versa depending on the connector) when there is no plug inserted. With this type of connector, you could wire a relay directly to that pin and use it to divert power. The rest, wiring up the audio signal, is the same as in the first method.
The audio quality was suprisingly good for my 27 year old head unit. I was shocked when plugged in my mp3 player, given the sound of it's radio reception. With new speakers, it may even be comparable to todays audio systems.
08-01-07, 06:36 AM
#2
Airflow is my life
Thats pretty cool! Thanks for the info. Sounds like the S3's are similar and this would probably work on them also.
11-19-07, 03:07 AM
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Huntersville, NC and occasionally back in Freeport, NY
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It seems I made an over assertion in saying that this is completely compatible with S2s. I was not aware that there was a premium sound option for 81/82 and consequently this will not work with that option. Furthurmore, it may only be SA's that have two input ports. I just stumbled upon this thread. In it there's a picture of the back of a standard 82 head unit, and it only has one input port. At this rate, I'm not even sure if the simple method would work. If someone has tried it, please chime in.
I have a picture of my completed cable (attached). lol, it's not much to look at.
No. For those you could interrupt the sound going to the equalizer with a relay or switch and send your own signal instead, similar to the second method. This applies to the premium sound on any of them. There's a wiring diagram in that link above, and I've seen it posted elsewhere. Keep searching 
I have a picture of my completed cable (attached). lol, it's not much to look at.
11-19-07, 08:54 AM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Bryan, TX
Posts: 766
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just tapped into the line that goes from the tape deck. I turn off the radio by putting a tape in, and then turn on my mp3 player. I used a switchable plug that turns off the signal coming from the tape deck when I have the mp3 player plugged in. It works pretty darn good.
Trending Topics
11-20-07, 02:44 AM
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Huntersville, NC and occasionally back in Freeport, NY
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just tapped into the line that goes from the tape deck. I turn off the radio by putting a tape in, and then turn on my mp3 player. I used a switchable plug that turns off the signal coming from the tape deck when I have the mp3 player plugged in. It works pretty darn good.
As it happens, I have an FB tape deck sitting here (never did get that SA tape deck to work, the rubber wheels were completely reduced to tar, nevermind the belt). I just pulled the cover off and confirmed that the wire colors/pin designations are exactly the same as in the SA deck. Therefore if you wish to splice the cable (as apposed to making an inline adapter) the colors in the diagram up top are equally valid for the FB.
03-28-08, 09:54 AM
#10
Rx-7 Heaven
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For anyone not interested in building their own 3.5mm mini-plug to 5 pin DIN audio cable to connect MP3/audio source to 1st generation Rx-7's original CLARION radio, here is a UK company that makes top notch cable at customizable lengths.
http://www.flashbacksales.co.uk/acat...mJackPlug.html
http://www.flashbacksales.co.uk/acat...mJackPlug.html
03-28-08, 10:01 AM
#11
For anyone not interested in building their own 3.5mm mini-plug to 5 pin DIN audio cable to connect MP3/audio source to 1st generation Rx-7's original CLARION radio, here is a UK company that makes top notch cable at customizable lengths.
http://www.flashbacksales.co.uk/acat...mJackPlug.html
http://www.flashbacksales.co.uk/acat...mJackPlug.html
03-28-08, 11:00 AM
#12
Rx-7 Heaven
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The first "premium" cable is clearly the best. Because Din connectors are directional it is vital that you order the correct cable for the signal direction, which is from MP3/audio source "to" radio/amplifier. The website makes this clear.
Also, please know that I sent an email to the contact address at Flashbacksales with specific questions on the performance and compatibility of these cables with the CLARION radios that shipped in 1GS1. I'll post again if I hear back anything worth sharing.
Also, please know that I sent an email to the contact address at Flashbacksales with specific questions on the performance and compatibility of these cables with the CLARION radios that shipped in 1GS1. I'll post again if I hear back anything worth sharing.
03-29-08, 09:41 AM
#13
Rx-7 Heaven
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd do business with this guy... excellent communicator
Here is the reply I received from the guy at Flashbacksales.com regarding usability of his custom 5 pin DIN cables. I believe his cable would work and am inclined to order it as I would really like to have my ipod easily hooked up easily and quickly for fun weekend rides. I will take his suggestion and try to find an auto audio expert to verify my thinking before ordering and paying shipping charges from the UK. I certainly appreciate David's approach to customer service and doing business with integrity. Impressive indeed!
______________________________
Hi
Many thanks for your enquiry.
Although it's a 5 pin DIN socket on the back of the unit, car radio audio wiring isn't really my field at all. The problem is that along with the audio, the DINs often carry power and status signalling. The idea was that the add-on item drew its power from the radio itself and when the add-on was switched on, it sent a status voltage back to the radio to tell the radio to switch from radio to tape or whatever
Of course modern sets do things differently. I've a Sony in my car, the input switching's manual and there's a 3.5m jack socket on the front to plug items like iPods into
You're welcome to try one of the cables you've seen in my on-line shop and you can return it if it doesn't work, but I must warn you that any damage caused to the radio because the DIN socket is wired differently to hi-fi units, I can't be held responsible for
I'm sorry that I can't be of more help, and to be honest, you may be better contacting a specialist in-car audio dealer. If there aren't any near you, I can give you a couple of addresses of dealers here in the UK
Everything I supply, including special orders comes with an unconditional 20
day money back guarantee of satisfaction. If you are not entirely satisfied
with your purchase for any reason whatsoever, simply return it to me
undamaged within 20 days of receipt and I'll refund the purchase price in
full, plus all postal charges
Regards
David Laine
http://www.flashbacksales.co.uk
Flashback Sales, 23 Highfields,
Crowle, Scunthorpe
Nth Lincs,
DN17 4NP, United Kingdom
______________________________
Hi
Many thanks for your enquiry.
Although it's a 5 pin DIN socket on the back of the unit, car radio audio wiring isn't really my field at all. The problem is that along with the audio, the DINs often carry power and status signalling. The idea was that the add-on item drew its power from the radio itself and when the add-on was switched on, it sent a status voltage back to the radio to tell the radio to switch from radio to tape or whatever
Of course modern sets do things differently. I've a Sony in my car, the input switching's manual and there's a 3.5m jack socket on the front to plug items like iPods into
You're welcome to try one of the cables you've seen in my on-line shop and you can return it if it doesn't work, but I must warn you that any damage caused to the radio because the DIN socket is wired differently to hi-fi units, I can't be held responsible for
I'm sorry that I can't be of more help, and to be honest, you may be better contacting a specialist in-car audio dealer. If there aren't any near you, I can give you a couple of addresses of dealers here in the UK
Everything I supply, including special orders comes with an unconditional 20
day money back guarantee of satisfaction. If you are not entirely satisfied
with your purchase for any reason whatsoever, simply return it to me
undamaged within 20 days of receipt and I'll refund the purchase price in
full, plus all postal charges
Regards
David Laine
http://www.flashbacksales.co.uk
Flashback Sales, 23 Highfields,
Crowle, Scunthorpe
Nth Lincs,
DN17 4NP, United Kingdom
04-02-08, 07:13 PM
#16
Full Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Huntersville, NC and occasionally back in Freeport, NY
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright, I looked it up. Old DIN style audio interconnects will not work!
Here are the pinouts for the DIN-5 audio interconnect. If you use the aforementioned 1/8" miniplug to DIN-5 Amp cable, you would end up connecting the Left channel to the "W" line. Sorry guys.
If you really are at a loss to solder one together, PM me, I can make one for you and to your specs. That said, someone should ask for one of the interrupt mode cables mentioned - I need an excuse to make that writeup
Here are the pinouts for the DIN-5 audio interconnect. If you use the aforementioned 1/8" miniplug to DIN-5 Amp cable, you would end up connecting the Left channel to the "W" line. Sorry guys.
If you really are at a loss to solder one together, PM me, I can make one for you and to your specs. That said, someone should ask for one of the interrupt mode cables mentioned - I need an excuse to make that writeup
04-02-08, 08:07 PM
#17
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: State College, PA
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
what about premium sound '84-'85?
The extra "input" on the back of my '84 premium w/EQ is a 7 pin connector...Has anyone gotten an input outputted correctly on one of these? I tried a couple times, but my input was always a "ghost" signal in the background, very quiet, and also played with a tape or the radio, never by itself...Also, it didn't seem to work through the EQ. Anyone else tried with one of these radios?
